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Crimping Plated Bullets for Revolver

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WildeKurt

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Jan 9, 2007
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Hancock County, IL
I'm looking at Ranier plated bullets and like the price. Comes out to about $.06 each in bulk. Question is, how would I crimp one? I've been using the Lee Factory Crimp die on bullets with a groove which gives a nice roll crimp. These, however, do not have a groove. I'd load them at 38 Spc and +P loads, around 1000 fps for IPSC matches and general target practice.

As an alternative, I like the Winchester jacketed stuff, but Midway seems to have them perpetually on backorder.
 
I use Berry's plated bullets for a lot of applications, some of which require a crimp. Just use a light crimp so you don't break the plating and you'll do fine. If you crimp too tightly and cut the plating, accuracy will fall off dramatically. As long as the case provides enough tension to hold the bullet, you won't need a lot of crimp anyway. Experiment with a couple until you get the right amount of crimp and then shoot them like any other bullet.

Hope this helps.

Fred
 
I also use X-treme plated bullets, and I reload on a Dillion Square Deal-B, which puts on a taper crimp. I've not had any problems with a tamper crimp of any of my 40's, 10mm's or 45's. I even have some .357 rounds without a groove and though I don't load them very hot, I haven't had any problems.

Most handgun rounds do not need an excessive amount of crimp. The test is to push the nose of the bullet on a firm/hard surface, and see if you get any setback into the case. You can also load up 6 rounds in your revolver and fire 5 of them. Then measure the 6th one for setback.

There's usually a big price jump from plated to true jacketed bullets. If you have problems or just don't want to take the chance with non-grooved bullets, then I suggest you try one of the other plated bullets, like X-treme or Berry's.
 
I just received my first bullets from X-treme bullets in .45. I have not seen the ones with a cannelure. For Raniers and Berry's bullets in the .38 Spl. I have had great luck with good neck tension and a taper crimp using the Redding taper crimp die.:)
 
I use the .38 special LFCD (roll crimp) on my Berry's plated bullets.

I tested settings by crimping a bullet and then removing and inspecting it.

1/2 turn put a distinct indent in the copper surface, but did not break or chaffe it at all. I backed off to 1/4 turn and the indent was just noticeabe (like I had pressed on the copper with my thumb nail). No problems and the accuracy is as good as I am. :eek:

If I'm not mistaken, the Berry's are a softer swaged lead bullet under the electro plate......not like hard cast.....so denting the copper coat isn't to difficult. Chaffing through or scraping off isn't easy at all though.

For DEWCs I seat just a little proud of flush and crimp right around the fillet (round over) at the edge.

So far so good.
 
I have loaded a bunch of 125gr plated FP .38spl Rainier bullets and just crimp them to the Lyman manual spec. It's just a light crimp and I have pulled these bullets without damage to the plating. Follow the manual for the largest outer diameter after the crimp and you should be just fine. I've loaded polymer coated bullets the same way without any troubles.
 
Jacketed Anyway

I found some Remington 125 gr JHP for only 1 cent more than the Ranier plated ones. For only 1 cent more, I'll stick with what I know.
 
I used the Remington 125gr JHP and prefer them over Winchester. You could look into getting a taper crimp die.
 
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