Gun Safes

[Adrenolin]

Hey folks. I bought a Walther PPS 9mm about a year ago as my first firearm and well, its turned into a collection entirely too fast! I've realized I now need to order a safe/rsc. I've pretty much decided that I only want to hurt my wallet once and not need to upgrade or go through the hassle for another safe later. Firearm storage and security is a driving force at this time for the purchase but we also have additional items we'd like to secure as well which is why we're looking at a larger model with good fire ratings. After looking at a few in person and online I've decided I'd like the following..

• at least 10 gauge or better
• Inside delivery and placement is a must
• About 1000Lbs give or take
• Decent 90 Minute fire rating
• Best protection from the smash & grab a$$hats with pry-bars
• Large size.. Prefer a tall 72" tall model and between 3-4 feet wide maximum.
• S&G Mechanical Dial or the S&G E-lock.. not biometric. Leaning towards dial.
• 4-way active locking bolts
• Good trusted warranty would be nice also

Internal vs external hinges I could care less about as both have their pros and cons. Having the full 180 degree opening would be nice but not needed. Included interior lighting, door management panel, interior power would be nice things.

I had originally been looking at Patriot Safe and their 39-gun 2-hour LEO special but I decided against it mainly due to their not UL listed and the proprietary X-2400 Digital lock. Sturdy safes sound and look great but shipping is extremely high and delivery from what I was reading was only to the curb and not inside. Fort Knox Defender is their base 10G safe but pops the price up over what I'm willing to spend.

I'm currently looking at the Liberty Lincoln 50 and the Champion Triumph T-50. They appear to be very similar and I have local shops who can deliver inside around 3300 (Champion) to 3500 (Liberty). This is my absolute max spending allowance for a safe.

Comments, advice, thoughts, etc? Its a major purchase and I'm feeling the tension of the decision.

 

[Reloadron]

You may want to give this thread a read if you have not done so already. There are also other safe related threads in the forums so a search may help.

When I bought mine I was fortunate in that here in Cleveland, Ohio we have a large safe company with a large showroom. That gave me the opportunity to talk to people in addition to the homework I had done. I was also able to shop and compare on the spot. Get into the features like how many bolts and where they are located, the lock mechanisms and so on. Decide what fits your needs best. Shop wisely as I discovered that on a higher end safe the pricing for the same make and model can vary greatly like as much as $500 to $600 on a base line $3,000 safe. I narrowed my choices down to 3 flavors and described my setup needs and then asked for a best and final cash price on each delivered including taxes etc. I buy a $3,000 safe and use a credit card they lose a few percent in profit, if they want to come down in price on cash that works for me. Having a large showroom was a big plus for me and worked out well.

The people I dealt with provided installation which all things considered wasn't that much in cost. The install depended on where it was going and what was involved getting it there and setup. Additionally the size and weight of the safe come into play.

Yes, it is a major purchase so do that homework and get it right for what you need and want the first time. Our safe also is home to all our important documents, my wife's jewelery collection, and anything of great value we have. With the exception of a few loaded magazines I don't bother keeping ammunition in my safe. Ammunition is expendable.

Ron

 

[Shadow 7D]

"Gun safe" =/= a safe
It is a "residential security container"
with MUCH different (read much lower) standards

you average gunsafe is a Granite import, and the shiny 'Browning' is the same box as the Winchester, as the..... as the Store Brand, as the Stack On

And yes friends you will pay MUCH more for a shiny coat of paint, some gold pinstripes and a brand name, as the 'crappy' chinese box 'bargain' brand (cause see, many are the same (similar) box)

This means you have to do your due diligence.

 

[ol' scratch]

I have been looking at Sturdy Safe. They seem to put out a very nice product without the frills. You end up spending money where it needs to be spent...on security. I have a friend who owns one and it is well made. You can also add options you want or need. A true custom option and free shipping. http://www.sturdysafe.com/

 

[CB900F]

Fella's;

One thing to be sure to do if you're getting an RSC is check what the bolts lock up against. Many, many, RSC's simply bend the sheet metal & call it good. Which means there's no frame as such. Every time you bend sheet steel you weaken it. So count the bends from the side wall to the interior of the container. See if the bolts lock up behind a plate frame or not. Check out the youtube video "Security On Sale" & see what a non-frame RSC offers for protection.

900F

 

[Walkalong]

check what the bolts lock up against.

This really important, and one area Sturdy safes shine in, as well as double support of the bolts, thick walls and doors. Study is worth a serious look. I had mine shipped to work, used the box truck with lift gate to get it home, and rollers to slowly get it where i wanted it. Being able to remove the door until you get it set and then put it back on is a big plus the larger and heavier the safe gets.

 

[2nd 41]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ltK-bDbADa8

I purchased my safe based on Curt's knowledge. He took me into his "back room" of attacked safes. Scary what the bad guys can do to a mediocre safe.

 

[grubbylabs]

I am hoping that when I build my house in a few years, I will be able to build a "safe" room. My in laws have a neighbor that has one. It is basically a room with a vault door. My BIL has a safe with the same door and it is very challenging to open even when you know the combo. It won't provide the fire safety you are looking for, but no one will haul it away.

 

[Joseywales3]

"... Being able to remove the door until you get it set and then put it back on is a big plus the larger and heavier the safe gets."

I recently inherited a safe and contacted a Certified Safecracker / Technician, with various questions. I was told to NOT transport my double door safe without the doors in place. He didn't explain why and perhaps it had something to do with being double door. My guess is that he was more concerned with the "box" shifting, or damage occuring to the combo unit?? Not sure.

Anyway, I ignored the advice, because removing the doors reduced the overall weight by almost 500 pounds and these piano movers were still struggling. Overall weight was over 1,300 pounds.

Get professional safe movers and NOT piano movers. If my safe had a fancy paint job, etc., I would we suing them right now. Mine has a rough exterior, which I actually prefer, and with 5 guys they still had problems getting it up 5 steps.

BTW, when you're shelling out thousands of dollars on a safe, consider where you live. If you are in a remote area, guys will tear out your walls and drive down the road with a 2,000 pounds safe tied to their tow hitch. Google it, it has happened. One guy lives in an area where there is a large safe lying in a ditch. It was put there by thieves who drug it 1 mile or so, broke it open in the woods, then tossed it. Bolting the safe down keeps it from falling on family members, but if a thief wants that safe and is equipped, he will pull through your walls and down the driveway.

So what are you trying to accomplish?

1 - protection from fire

2 - protection from water

3 - protection from amateur thieves

4 - protection from professional thieves

I actually just locked up all of my pry bars, etc., that were in my garage. I figure, why give thieves the tools to break in??

 

[Walkalong]

I was told to NOT transport my double door safe without the doors in place. He didn't explain why and perhaps it had something to do with being double door. My guess is that he was more concerned with the "box" shifting, or damage occuring to the combo unit?? Not sure.

My guess is the worry of knocking it slightly out of square if it is handled improperly. The bigger the opening and the thinner the walls and corners the more danger there is of this.

 

[Joseywales3]

I believe you are correct. He mentioned, "the box" and I was farily sure he meant the safe itself, as a square. I tell anyone, use a safe mover. Those guys have the right stuff. My safe was "free", but cost me $500 to deliver. Worth every penny if done correctly.

 

[Dave P.]

I bought a Sturdy about a year ago. The company was good to deal with, no issues.
Safe itself looks ok, the door gap/fit is very tight and bolt and lock works ok.
Only complaint and not much of one, is the visable welds, someone from
the Stevie Wonder school of welding must have made em. I make part of my
living doing machining and welding so I may be a bit critical about this part.
Bottom line is I'd buy another.... I think it's a good product for the price point.
Dave

 

[Dave P.]

I may have posted this before....
A relative had a Stack-On that weighed maybe 250-300 lbs
stolen. The thieves dragged it and flipped it end over end
through a 2nd story bathroom window. Lucky for them the
central AC compressor broke it's fall pretty well. At some point they drove
a car or truck through the nice new wooden fence into the back yard
and loaded it up.
Few weeks later it was found at a "crackhouse" not far from where
it was stolen.
As a prank we straightened it up ( didn't take much ), filled it with
cement, and I mean full. Got the door shut and tack welded and
put it back in the garage. Sure enough about 18 months later
the house got hit again and it was gone.
Wish we could have been there when they managed to get it open,
been almost as much fun as being there when they took it.
Dave