I know this has came up before but I would like an answer from someone who has actually shot lead through factory Glock barrels. Can you do it without damaging barrel? Any fouling? How hard is lead to get out of barrel? I dont need an answer from someone who thinks they know what you can or cant do. Just from someone who has done it with or without problems. Didnt really want to have to buy another barrel but I am spending way to much money on bullets and figured I could shoot a lot more if I started loading with lead.
Lead out of a Glock?
- Thread starter DEP589
- Start date
- Status
ljnowell
Member
I have been shooting lead from my G21 barrel for years. Missouri Bullets 230gr lrn works great, as does the 18bhn 200gr lswc they sell.
W.E.G.
Member
Some lead bullets foul factory Glock barrels severely.
This can lead to incomplete battery conditions.
Be sure the bullet you select does not cause this condition.
This can lead to incomplete battery conditions.
Be sure the bullet you select does not cause this condition.
I got a lot of leading in my G19. Didn't prevent me from shooting over 1k cast bullets through it, though.
My G21 shoots lead just fine, with very minimal fouling. Actually, the worst fouling I ever got, by far, was from factory "jacketed" (thinly plated) rounds.
Leading is super, super easy to clean out of a Glock barrel. Much easier than out of barrels with standard rifling. A couple passes or three with some bronze wool and plain gun oil, and you have a mirror finish.
Not that I recommend it, but I actually shot 99% of those 9mm cast bullets up by putting a couple medium charged plated bullets in each mag. Never did have to clean the barrel, again, when I started doing that. Mirror finish after every shooting session and no worries about a lot of lead building up over time, unnoticed. Even though I had a 9mm LW barrel for my G27, I preferred to shoot 99% of those bullets out of my stock G19 barrel.
My G21 shoots lead just fine, with very minimal fouling. Actually, the worst fouling I ever got, by far, was from factory "jacketed" (thinly plated) rounds.
Leading is super, super easy to clean out of a Glock barrel. Much easier than out of barrels with standard rifling. A couple passes or three with some bronze wool and plain gun oil, and you have a mirror finish.
Not that I recommend it, but I actually shot 99% of those 9mm cast bullets up by putting a couple medium charged plated bullets in each mag. Never did have to clean the barrel, again, when I started doing that. Mirror finish after every shooting session and no worries about a lot of lead building up over time, unnoticed. Even though I had a 9mm LW barrel for my G27, I preferred to shoot 99% of those bullets out of my stock G19 barrel.
Last edited:
bodam
Member
I shot hundreds of leads loads through my first G23c with no problems. Then it was stolen in a burglary.
I replaced it with a gen 4 g23, and it went kaboom on the 1st mag of lead.
I can't say for sure if it was related to lead, but I can't rule it out.
I replaced it with a gen 4 g23, and it went kaboom on the 1st mag of lead.
I can't say for sure if it was related to lead, but I can't rule it out.
ljnowell
Member
No way did it lead up in one mag. Not possible. Even soft swaged bullets at max velocity wouldnt do it that quick. Double charge or something else at play there.
[email protected]
Member
- Joined
- Dec 2, 2010
- Messages
- 839
What caliber is your glock? I have loaded lead for my glock 23 with factory barrel with success.
wgaynor
Member
Leading will occur in any firearm it you have the wrong size bullet, the wrong velocity, and the wrong bullet hardness.
Not sure why folks say not to shoot lead in Glocks. I've been there, done that, and had no problems. Just slug your barrel first.
Not sure why folks say not to shoot lead in Glocks. I've been there, done that, and had no problems. Just slug your barrel first.
SEE IT LIKE A NATIVE
Member
before you go to plain lead , try the polymer coated bullets from Precision Bullets or other sources !
Glock 22 Gen 3
ljnowell
Member
Why? Why not just try the lead bullets and see what happens? If he is ultimately going to try plain lead why make the middle stop?
I thought those were coated with something else, polymer doesnt sound right.
Kingcreek
Member
I've shot hundreds of hard cast lead thru my G23 without problems. I load light to moderate target loads only and I thoroughly clean any leading out between shooting sessions. I haven't seen much leading in mine really but I wouldn't run a bunch of lead and then switch to jacketed without cleaning.
glockky
Member
I have tried shooting lead bullets through the factory glock barrel alot. In my experience it would work with really soft bullets that fit your bore well. I have also had experiences where they would shoot good until about the 50rd mark.
At this point the fouling would get bad accuracy would fall completely off. I personally have found that a aftermarket barrel gives me much better accuracy with lead bullets.
But personally i would have to say to give it a try, you may not have these problems. If you buy some lead bullets and it doesnt work out then just go to glocktalks classifieds and find you a cheap aftermarket barrel.
At this point the fouling would get bad accuracy would fall completely off. I personally have found that a aftermarket barrel gives me much better accuracy with lead bullets.
But personally i would have to say to give it a try, you may not have these problems. If you buy some lead bullets and it doesnt work out then just go to glocktalks classifieds and find you a cheap aftermarket barrel.
[email protected]
Member
- Joined
- Dec 2, 2010
- Messages
- 839
My first advice to somone who is loading for 40s&w when I dont know their ability is to use plated or fmj bullets in any gun, not just a glock. Shooting cast bullets has its own challanges in higher pressure rounds like 40s&w, remember it pressure runs closer to its little brother 9mm than its bigger brother 45acp. This is one thing that makes details like bullet to bore fit more critical to keep it from leading. If the bullet is too small it will not seal and the gases will "cut" the bullet and you will get leading. Also if the bullet is too hard for the pressure your running, the base will not expand and it will lead. My wheel weight alloy is not super hard and runs around 14 bh. Dont get caught up in the super duper extra hard alloy bullets madness that some try to sell.
It sounds like your will be buying commerical cast bullets. I really dont have much expierence with commerical cast bullets, and the only two calibers that I have ever bought commerical cast was 380 acp and 38 special. I now cast bullets for all my handgun rounds 40s&w,9mm, 380acp, 45acp, and 38 special/357. I cannot suggest a certin brand, but the lead that I have bought was from MBC. You may call them and see what sizing options thay have. I have used .402 bullets in my G23, but I had to do some work to get my mold to cast them that big. .401 is the normal size that you can buy.
When you pick out your bullet get one with a traditional bullet shape, like TC for the 40. These do not have a sharp shoulder like a SWC bullet. Starting off I also would get the heavier 180 grain to help keep the velocity lower.
When you seat your bullets use a fired case with a bullet that fits loose in the case. You should be able to barley seat the bullet on the press and then use your barrel to determine the col buy putting the bullet/case in your chamber and pushing on the case until the case headspaces on the mouth not the bullet. Shorten this length a little to allow for any buildup that gets built up in the chamber.
As far as powder I like bullseye and hp38 but you will have to see what works best for you. I dont push them very fast and the faster powders gives me enough energy at the lower velocities to cycle the slide.
When you shoot keep a close eye on your barrel for leading and also watch where the case mouth headspaces for lube buildup. I use hoppes #9 and a bronze bore brush wrapped with COPPER choreboy to clean out a leaded barrel. DO NOT use steel or the copper plated chore boy.
When it was all said and done I ended up buying a storm lake barrel for my glocks for a few reasons. The biggest reason was that these are my carry guns and I am not hard pressed to clean the barrel before I carry the gun. After Im done at the range I can give the gun a wipedown and oiling and drop in the factory barrel with my mag full of carry ammo.
chris in va
Member
Zero leading out of my G21 and a Lee 230gr mold.
ljnowell
Member
Hmmmmmm, sugar..............
upstech76
Member
I tried running lead from MBC in both my G26 & G23. Both had lots of leading but didn't blow anything up. Started loading a couple of jacketed rounds in every mag which helped to clean out the leading. With that said I have since decided to only run plated/jacketed bullets because the savings wasn't great enough to risk damaging myself or a handgun.
ljnowell
Member
Do you remember what powders and loads you were using? Just curious.
upstech76
Member
Both loads functioned great other than the leading. I just found that when buying lead bullets there isn't enough cost savings over plated rounds to justify the compliations of leading.
9mm 125 gr MBC RN loaded over a 4.5 gr of Unique.
40sw 140 gr MBC TCFP loaded over 5.8 gr of Unique.
9mm 125 gr MBC RN loaded over a 4.5 gr of Unique.
40sw 140 gr MBC TCFP loaded over 5.8 gr of Unique.
dwhite
Member
HTML:
Quote:When you pick out your bullet get one with a traditional bullet
shape, like TC for the 40. These do not have a sharp shoulder like a
SWC bullet. Starting off I also would get the heavier 180 grain to help keep
the velocity lower.I run Missouri Bullets 170 grain LSWC's through my G22
and my Taurus 24/7 Pro C without any problem. Maybe
I'm just lucky but they work and are VERY accurate.
All the Best,
D. White
[email protected]
Member
- Joined
- Dec 2, 2010
- Messages
- 839
I looked at MBC site and that does look like a good bullet. My post was directed to DEP589 since he asked for advice. As with all things different people get different results, and if someone is just starting out using cast bullets I believe it to be wise to use a traditional bullet style and weight. That was my advice, but I wasnt saying a SWC bullet couldnt be used in a semi auto. I use lee's 105 swc for my 9mm and 380acp.
I also dont recomend a TL design to the new caster. It is not because it cant be done, but it can be harder to learn with. As always YMMV
LiveLife
Member
I do shoot lead reloads out of my factory Glock barrels and yes, you can do it without damaging the barrel. However, I do need to state a disclaimer that Glock does not endorse shooting of any reloaded ammunition. So shoot lead bullets in your Glock barrels at your own risk.DEP589 said:
First the basics. If you look at the pictures of factory Glock barrels and a not-to-scale loaded chamber drawing above, you'll notice that factory Glock barrels have rounded "hexagonal" rifling (not a true polygonal rifling) with a very smooth start of rifling and fairly long leade. What all these factors contribute to shooting lead bullets is that the bearing surface (bullet base that engages the rifling) of the bullet will slide longer into the start of rifling and allow more high pressure powder ignition gas to leak around the bullet before chamber pressure starts to build to deform/expand the bullet base to seal the bullet base with the barrel (obturation) - http://www.lasc.us/FryxellCBAlloyObturation.htm
The more high pressure gas leak around the bullet, the more you will increase gas cutting and blow liquefied lube off the bullet surface (decreasing the lubrication) to increase fouling deposit and leading of the barrel - http://www.lasc.us/FryxellLubeCastBullets.htm
The picture below shows this fouling build up after 100 rounds shot through a factory Glock barrel. If this fouling build up is allowed to continue, you'll essentially end up with a smooth-bore barrel with reduce diameter that may increase chamber pressure incrementally. For this reason, rcmodel and I usually suggest you inspect and clean the factory Glock barrels as necessary after 200-300 rounds. I take a mini cleaning kit to the range with copper strands (Chore boy) wrapped around old copper bore brushes dipped in Hoppes #9 - a few strokes and barrels are clean. More information on leading definition/cause/location/prevention/removal - http://www.lasc.us/Fryxell_Book_Chapter_7_Leading.htm
And don't worry about damaging Glock barrels. Tenifer surface hardening treatment of Glock's barrel and slide surfaces have the hardness of 64 HRC on the Rockwell scale, which is very hard (diamond has a hardness of 70 HRC) - http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?p=8254711#post8254711
You can shoot lead reloads in factory Glock barrels but if you shoot a lot during your range sessions, aftermarket barrels with conventional land/groove rifling will give you greater accuracy and cleaner barrels to clean.
I also shoot Gen3 G22/G23/G27 and have used Missouri 40S&W lead bullets in various weights with good results using W231/HP-38 at mid-to-high range lead load data. I referenced 1999 Winchester lead load data for my loads and would suggest you start out with 180 gr TCFP using 3.8 - 4.2 gr W231/HP-38 for target loads then venturing out to lighter bullet weights.
I covered loading 40S&W leading loads using W231/HP-38 on this thread using the following load data - http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?p=8394739#post8394739
I use the following Missouri 40S&W bullets and the OALs specified work well for M&P40 and Glock 22/23/27.
I hope this helped.
Be safe but do enjoy your Glocks!
Attachments
Last edited:
If you slug your barrel and find it needs larger than .401( a good number of .40 barrels do) ,you can get oversize ones from DARDAS, he is one of the only commercial casters that does so.Bullet size is the #1 thing to help preventing leading. It impossible for lead to damage a barrel, any brand. It would be lead buildup ,possibly causing overpressure that does any damage.
- Status
