Trimmer help

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VAReloader

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In a recent thread, someone mentioned a 3 way trimmer that is purpose built for each caliber. Used in a drill or drill press. I though I bookmarked the website, but obviously had a brain fade and can't find it now.
I can tell you what it's not.
Trim-It II
WFT from Little Crow
Giraud
Wilson
RCBS
Redding

It is only sold on the owners website, no retailer or ebay.

I have done searches but still no luck.
 
I think most use an adjustable 3 way cutter head. There was a post that showed some end mills that had a special cut in them. I need to see if I can locate that. I could use it with the cutter I made.
 
My money would be on Little Crow or Giraud. If I had to pick, it would be little crow.

Just my $0.02
dg
 
CTS makes a small combat trimmer for specific calibers. It's not adj like the Trim-It or WFT and maybe others. Most use a std end mill and only trim so it leaves you to do the rest of the work by hand. Giraud one is probably the best I've seen. Design to run true at higher rpm to give a faster cleaner cut. I have the Trim-It II and it has a lot of issues due to the way the adj works. Cause the head to wobble, not good. Since I have purchased a lathe I machined my own body so now it runs true.

http://www.ctstrimmer.com/case-trimmers/8-cts-trimmer.html
 
"Trim It", but my link no longer works.

It is made by Black Widow Supply.

I bought one and fought, tinkered, messed with to the point of throwing it in a canal!. I sent it back and got a refund.

Nicely made, but horrible to try and adjust. It's not worth it! JMHO YMMV and all that stuff.:thumbdown:

I will stick with either the Little Crow and then deburr if needed or use my RCBS 3 way trimmer.

https://www.blackwidowshooters.com/
 
I use the RCBS 3-Way and it works for me, I have read reviews that say Little Crow is the way to go.

Good Luck
dg
 
I like the original little crow, ( havent tried the new one with caliber changing inards) but I would strongly recommend splurging the extra 20-25 bucks on the optional carbide cutter once the original dulls.

Russellc
 
I like the original little crow, ( havent tried the new one with caliber changing inards) but I would strongly recommend splurging the extra 20-25 bucks on the optional carbide cutter once the original dulls.

Russellc

I agree, and 25 dollars for a single end 4 flute carbide end mill is a good price.:thumbup:
 
Good to know.

If they would hold some tight tolerances on their adj collar it would be a good unit. With only 1 set screw locking the adj throws the collar out of alignment with the cuter. I added some set screws to counter it but it is still pita. I ended up making my own housing using their cutting head. Then made my collars for the different calibers with longer bodies to keep the brass straighter. I need to find the source for the end mills that had a grove cut into it for breaking the edges that was posted a while back. Can’t remember who posted it but thinking it was our resident gadget maker Mr Morris. These would be ideal for single caliber trimmers.
 
I like the original little crow, ( havent tried the new one with caliber changing inards) but I would strongly recommend splurging the extra 20-25 bucks on the optional carbide cutter once the original dulls.

Russellc

I have three Little Crows. My gunsmith faults them because he says it may or may not cut squarely, or some such. They read off the shoulder and I trust them. And they are quick and easy. If you size and bump the shoulder first I don't see how there would be a problem. Have you found any downsides??? Personally, I think they are an excellent choice.
 
I have three Little Crows. My gunsmith faults them because he says it may or may not cut squarely, or some such. They read off the shoulder and I trust them. And they are quick and easy. If you size and bump the shoulder first I don't see how there would be a problem. Have you found any downsides??? Personally, I think they are an excellent choice.

Agreed.

No doubt they are not the most accurate method, Im sure Sinclair makes something that will cut each individual case to the nearest .001 inch, but I rarely find that necessary. With .223, it is darn hard to set it to exactly 1.750 trim to length, but 1.74 to 1.753 or so is close enough for AR work with Lake City Once fired brass for me.. In my bolt gun its good for less than 1 MOA, closer to 1/2 MOA.

That said, I am making more precision brass for bolt guns and will use Lapua for that....so I am eyeballing a really precise cutter, one with micrometer adjustment for rounds that really need to be spec on. Now with that said, my shooting might not show the difference!

One thing is for certain, if your friend wants to do 1000 .223 brass one at the time, he can certainly do so, his choice. The speed with which the little WFT can dispatch them is WAY faster. As to not cutting them square, if it is off it likely isnt enough to lose sleep over...after knocking off the ridge, they stand straight enough on a flat surface by the eyeball method. When you start worrying to that degree, you might really get upset at the basic manufacturing tolerances in some brass.

I use one for .300 Black out too, and worry even less with it.

If you are a big F class Benchrest shooter, buy the best, forget about how long it takes and carry on, sleeping soundly at night knowing you have done all you can equipment wise in your preparation. On the other hand, with my bolt guns and more accurate AR platforms doing better than 1 MOA, I sleep fine anyway.

Russellc
 
Actually I think cobalt is a better choice for brass and manual cutters. Carbide likes heavy cuts and does not do well with light cuts. Cobalt is sharper and tuffer than HSS and is capable of lighter cuts than carbide. It can not take the heat that carbide can.

If they offered one, and they dont, (at least to my knowledge) I would buy it. If they do, please carry on, I am all ears.


Russellc
 
If they would hold some tight tolerances on their adj collar it would be a good unit. With only 1 set screw locking the adj throws the collar out of alignment with the cuter. I added some set screws to counter it but it is still pita. I ended up making my own housing using their cutting head. Then made my collars for the different calibers with longer bodies to keep the brass straighter. I need to find the source for the end mills that had a grove cut into it for breaking the edges that was posted a while back. Can’t remember who posted it but thinking it was our resident gadget maker Mr Morris. These would be ideal for single caliber trimmers.[/QUOTMy little crow units, which are the original, not the newer version that allows switching calibers, has two screws to tighten. Hard to get perfect, but difficult to argue with the speed 1000 .223 brass can be cut. If it isnt that precise, well it isnt perfect. 1 MOA is 1 MOA...or less.
If they would hold some tight tolerances on their adj collar it would be a good unit. With only 1 set screw locking the adj throws the collar out of alignment with the cuter. I added some set screws to counter it but it is still pita. I ended up making my own housing using their cutting head. Then made my collars for the different calibers with longer bodies to keep the brass straighter. I need to find the source for the end mills that had a grove cut into it for breaking the edges that was posted a while back. Can’t remember who posted it but thinking it was our resident gadget maker Mr Morris. These would be ideal for single caliber trimmers.

My little crow units, which are the original, not the newer version that allows switching calibers, has two set screws to tighten. Hard to get perfect, but difficult to argue with the speed 1000 .223 brass can be cut. If it isnt that precise, well it isnt perfect. 1 MOA is 1 MOA...or less. As stated, I am after an ultra precise cutter for Lapua brass and will be discussing any differences in results. My shooting ability, or lack thereof, may cloud the result...

WHOOPS, I see on reread you are not referring to the Little Crow unit, my bad...


Russellc
 
Does anyone use a Lee Quick Trim? Does it cut square mouths. I have a Little Crow Trimmer which saves a lot of time trimming. However, you have to go back and debur. I like the fact that the Lee Trimmer does everything in one step.
 
The inaccuracy with these drill press mounted trimmers is the cartridge pilot that is too short. Most all only support 1/2" of the neck/shoulder area and it's a loose fit so you can get tilting. When I made mine I use chamber reamers if I had them to make them around 1.25" long. Need to still have something to hold on to. But with the extended length and tighter tolerance eliminates any tilting. So if your shoulder are square with the bolt face evert thing is true. Just as true as a one of the hand lathe trimmers but 100 times faster.
 
I've used a RCBS Trim Pro and Lee Quick Trim dies with power and manual trimmer in the past. They worked OK but, I got tired switching out shell holders and/or not finding components that I needed for calibers like my 358 Win and 9.3x62 cases. I finally decided to get a Lyman Universal trimmer with the powered trim accessory. Pilots for all my calibers are readily available and I couldn't be happier. I spent an hour or so preparing cases to act as templates for my different rifle calibers (currently, 10 different calibers that I reload). No, it doesn't do inside or outside chamfering but, I have a Lyman Case Prep Center that does a quick and effective job.

I use Lee presses and a combination of Lee, RCBS and Redding reloading dies. I primarily use RCBS (Chargemaster) and Lee equip for powder measuring. But, for my needs, I've found the Lyman gear is economical and performs well for all my case prep work.
 
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