10mm load work up

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Stew0576

Stew0576

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My order of 180 jhp from zero bullets will be here Monday. I will be using these in my glock model 40 gen 4 10mm. Going to use these as a practice hunting round in place of hornady 180 grain xtp which i will use as my hunting round. I will be using longshot for powder and Winchester large pistol primers and COL of 1.26 my research shows my powder span to be 8.5 to 9.5 all my reading says to load closer to max for hunting, i can't help think that working up the most accurate round would be best, was wondering what you guys think, my plan is to load 10 rounds each at 8.5, 8.7, 8.8 and 9.1, see what's most accurate and retest in .1 grain increments above and below that. Also not sure of best testing distance, plan to use this out to 50 yards so thinking i should test at that range
 
I'm not sure I understand the question. Are you talking about working up the load for hunting with XTP projectiles but using plated bullets for the work-up? Are you asking whether you should begin your loading with things above the start load? Do you have a velocity window that you're trying to hit/stay within?
 
The plated bullets can act much differently from the XTP bullets when it comes to accuracy, so I would work up loads separately for each of them. You might find the plated bullets shoot best at the lower loads, the XTP might be best hot - you won't know until you try.

I can't help you with Longshot in 10mm as that is not one of the powders I have tried. I have had good luck with Blue Dot and BE86 - the latter was more accurate and is my preferred load, with 180gn plated bullets. I have not tried XTPs in the 10mm as I do not plan to hunt with it.
 
I sorry for the confusion, I'm working up the zero bullets just for practice, my desire being the feel and accuracy to be similar to the xtp so it will be good practice, i will work up the xtp by itself, my question mainly was that finding the most accurate load would be better or do i need run closer to max even with loss of accuracy with it being a hunting load, i would think increased accuracy would be preferred to a minor loss of power
 
I personally would take accuracy over energy if I had to choose. In this case though even a min charge load of Long Shot under a 180gr bullet (assuming a quality bullet) is going to have plenty of terminal effect to kill a deer size animal (assuming your hunting deer). That said I would never turn down having more energy. If the higher velocity loads shoot equally accurate I would use those. Shot as much energy as both you and the cartridge can do so accurately.

I have had good luck with 180gr and 200gr XTP bullets in 10mm Auto.

If you don't mind weighing every charge Hodgdon (IMR) 800-X is a very nice 10mm Auto powder. It does not meter by volume well at all but if you weigh each charge it performs extremely well in 10mm Auto.
 
Thank you, i will have to look into that, i plan to scale each charge for the 10mm, what distance would you recommend i use for my load workup? Thinking 30 yards would work
 
Stew0576 said:
Thank you, i will have to look into that, i plan to scale each charge for the 10mm, what distance would you recommend i use for my load workup? Thinking 30 yards would work
Click to expand...

30 yards would work just fine. I do most of my work up and accuracy handgun work at ~25 Yards though once I have picked my hunting load I will step back to 50 yard as that is about the maximum range I would attempt to take a shot on a deer with my handgun (iron sights).
 
Jack B. said:
He says he getting 180 gr JHP not plated from Zero Bullets
Click to expand...
Doh!! He did say that, didn't he. LOL.

I really like the Zero bullets in my 44mag, but have not tried them in 10mm. I've wondered what kind of terminal performance they would have, compared to the XTPs. I don't know if anyone has actually tested them.

FWIW, I was getting right at 1200fps with my loads, from a 4.75" Witness Elite. I would think you would get at least 100fps more with the long slide Glock.
 
I've never tried Zero bullets but I have found just about any good quality jacketed bullet works well in 44Magnum loads. I don't have a 10mm but my 45ACP is very accurate with plated and jacketed bullets at reduced loadings. Stew0576 might have much better accuracy with reduced loads. Just can't tell till you try. Also according to Hodgdon there is only 66fps difference between starting & maximum loadings with the 180gr bullet and longshot. I'll take back what I said earlier and advise you try starting load data. It's also a lot easier on you and your pistol.
 
I had 3 primers that required multiple tries to get them to fire today, Winchester large pistol primers, no lube used in loading and only tumbled in vibration tumbler with corncob for cleaning, are these primers known for this?
 
Used lots of WIN LPs in .45 no issues.
New gun? Did you give it a good cleaning to get all the shipping lube out of it?
Most likely primers not seated fully or 80 weight gear oil (or what ever sticky oil they use for shipping lube:)) in the firing pin channel.
Not a Glock owner so I don't know for sure if shipping lube in the channel could be an issue but that would be my first guess.
 
I'd guess that your primers were not fully seated. Glocks are not exactly known for light strikes, and a junk primer would probably not fire even after multiple strikes.

Do you have any remaining rounds to look at?
 
I have another 50 from that batch, i will take a look at them, i inspect them all as i prime but will see if i can find anything, I'm loading with a ss rc so inspect each round as i prime but you never know
 
The only good way to check for a high primer is using a metal straight edge. It can detect <0.001" above. But it does not mean that the primers have been seated enough to pre-load the anvil. Fires on 2nd strike normally indicates not seated all the way to pre-load.
 
Basically, if you have primers that aren't popping on the first hit but fire with a second hit, there are really two plausible explanations:
  • You're not getting them seated deeply enough, and too much of the firing pin's energy is being absorbed/cushioned by the primer seating a little deeper. This is sort of like the difference between punching a beach ball that is pinned hard against a wall versus hitting one that you have tossed into the air. The former may well burst, as the beach ball will deform much more under the impact, and may stretch beyond the limits of the seams or material. The latter will deform some, but will also move away from the force of the punch and not get squished nearly as dramatically.
  • You're right at the edge of having enough spring power/firing pin energy to pop primers of this type. It's common for people who swap out mainsprings/hammer springs in certain guns (such as DA revolvers) to have to limit their primer choices to Federal, which have a "softer" cup and are more easily ignited.
If you or another person has tweaked the gun with lighter springs (whatever the names of the relevant parts are in a Glock), you may have the second issue. Otherwise, and unless you have a very dirty striker/firing pin channel or a broken firing pin or the like, you probably just have some not-seated-all-the-way primers. They can be flush and not seated all the way.
 
Most of mine end up around .005" below flush or maybe even a tad more. Anywhere close to flush is probably not sensitizing the pellet properly.

Also...do you clean the primer pockets?
 
I have not cleaned the primer pockets on the 10mm, i don't have enough brass to allow drying time before i need to reload them
 
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