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Lee powder measure duo drum leaking

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jeeptim

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Mar 27, 2010
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California
Got my lee load master humming along but with win-231 leaking lots o powder it's the auto drum.
Is this just the way it is or do we have a fix?
I mean it works really well but a good amount of powder on the bench.
Thanx
 
It just leaks. Especially with fine powders. I sent one back to Lee on my own time for leaking, and it came back unchanged. I've been halfheartedly trying to come up with a way to catch powder under it. Taping a piece of paper or something. Haven't had a great solution yet. Let me know if you come up with one.
 
If you are talking the Auto Drum, know that the 1st issued drums were prone to leaking because the drums came out of the mold warped from shrinkage.
To remedy this Lee is now machining the drums to true-up the sealing surfaces and that has proven to minimize powder leakage.
Buying a set of new drums might just stop the measure leakage, that's what I did:
https://www.titanreloading.com/lee-...nt/lee-powder-handling/lee-quick-change-drums
If that's not the measure you have...never mind :uhoh:
:D
 
Like Tilos said, the newer drums seem to work better.

We had a thread a while back on this and discussed how it's important to not over tighten the drum or you will have inconsistent powder drops. Look down the top of the powder measure (with the powder reservoir off) put an empty case in the shell holder to activate the drum, and make sure that the cavity on the drum is returning to the same point every time.

When I first got mine I just put tape around the drum. Worked fine.
tLXTtXH.jpg

Dave
 
With a product description of: "Precision machined body with labyrinth groove provides a leak free fit with the finest powders", it sucks to have to deal with this. Don't own one, but Maybe a 'bad' one slipped out of the plant, and they can make it live up to their own claims until it works?

I bought a Lee Perfect Powder Measure (seems they still make them) when they first came out, and if you think WW231 leaks, try WW296/H110 in the one I had. The whole affair was frustrating, despite trying to remedy it as best I could. It was like, felt just like turning two closely fitted PVC pipes with sand in between them, scored both turning surfaces, and bound up. Not using it was the only way I could find to fix the problem. IMO and experience of the many Lee products I have owned and used, this was one of just a few that just did not cut it.

Hope you get the problem figured out.
 
Install the AutoDrum powder measure fully into the die or riser (riser fully installed into the die). Set die depth for desired case expansion (bell). Install the (CLEAN) drum and tighten the retaining screw enough so the drum does not fully return to top position (cycle it several times to verify). Then (important) loosen the drum retaining screw just enough to allow it to return to top (fill) position. Again cycle several times to verify. If your drum is new, cycle it with powder a few hundred times (or just load a few hundred rounds!) and then pull the drum, clean the interior of the PM with a soft brush (I use an old paint brush), clean the drum, reassemble and tighten as described above.

A few points to consider... I have no doubt that some drums might be misshapen. I have 5 fairly early production AutoDrums and a set of extra drums, and none have this issue to a significant degree that I can tell.
Any kernels or grains of powder that might work their way between the drum and PM mating surface will create a leak channel for fine powders--hence the importance of cleaning both thoroughly before assembly and the above described tightening routine before adding powder. Finally, cycling with powder serves two purposes: coating the drum and mating surface with graphite, smoothing the operation of the PM, and possibly truing up the nylon drum by friction against the mating surface. In the beginning, I would cycle powdered mica through the PM to coat everything and ensure smooth operation, but I gave that up quickly, opting to just load a few hundred rounds, accomplishing the same thing.

I acknowledge my small sample, but I really think most AutoDrum leakage issues can be easily solved as described. I would think the newer "machined" drums might fit better, but still need the same setup and break-in process, though I have not seen one to verify.

Hope this was clear enough and is helpful.
 
Install the AutoDrum powder measure fully into the die or riser (riser fully installed into the die). Set die depth for desired case expansion (bell). Install the (CLEAN) drum and tighten the retaining screw enough so the drum does not fully return to top position (cycle it several times to verify). Then (important) loosen the drum retaining screw just enough to allow it to return to top (fill) position. Again cycle several times to verify. If your drum is new, cycle it with powder a few hundred times (or just load a few hundred rounds!) and then pull the drum, clean the interior of the PM with a soft brush (I use an old paint brush), clean the drum, reassemble and tighten as described above.

A few points to consider... I have no doubt that some drums might be misshapen. I have 5 fairly early production AutoDrums and a set of extra drums, and none have this issue to a significant degree that I can tell.
Any kernels or grains of powder that might work their way between the drum and PM mating surface will create a leak channel for fine powders--hence the importance of cleaning both thoroughly before assembly and the above described tightening routine before adding powder. Finally, cycling with powder serves two purposes: coating the drum and mating surface with graphite, smoothing the operation of the PM, and possibly truing up the nylon drum by friction against the mating surface. In the beginning, I would cycle powdered mica through the PM to coat everything and ensure smooth operation, but I gave that up quickly, opting to just load a few hundred rounds, accomplishing the same thing.

I acknowledge my small sample, but I really think most AutoDrum leakage issues can be easily solved as described. I would think the newer "machined" drums might fit better, but still need the same setup and break-in process, though I have not seen one to verify.

Hope this was clear enough and is helpful.
+1
Setup is very important. Mine is one of the early ones. As long as I basically do what is described above, I've had no noticeable leakage. I recently bought the four pack set. Tried out one the other day. No problems as of yet.
The original ones have a smoother look to the mating surface compared to the new one. But it doesn't seem to matter, as they have been flawless so far.
 
If a powder measure leaks powder --- it is not working at all.

Consider chalking up a loss and get a better measure.
 
It is an new auto drum.
Spell check or mistake I could not edit.
The leaking was really bad with hs-6 Not as bad with win-231 .
I like the idea of tape around the outside.
What really makes this a problem is the powder falls into the primer area boogering up the priming system
 
I have no problems with mine nor with the 4 extra drums I have set for different powders.
 
Not sure if it's new old stock but works well just leaks 3 to 5 gr every 100 9mm rounds I load. Not a big deal except for when it gets in the priming system.
I have a can of compressed air I blow off the shell plate and priming system every 20/30 rnds
 
With a product description of: "Precision machined body with labyrinth groove provides a leak free fit with the finest powders", it sucks to have to deal with this. Don't own one, but Maybe a 'bad' one slipped out of the plant, and they can make it live up to their own claims until it works?

I bought a Lee Perfect Powder Measure (seems they still make them) when they first came out, and if you think WW231 leaks, try WW296/H110 in the one I had. The whole affair was frustrating, despite trying to remedy it as best I could. It was like, felt just like turning two closely fitted PVC pipes with sand in between them, scored both turning surfaces, and bound up. Not using it was the only way I could find to fix the problem. IMO and experience of the many Lee products I have owned and used, this was one of just a few that just did not cut it.

Hope you get the problem figured out.
The "Perfect" and "Auto Drum" use the same drum, you might want to buy a 4 pack of the "precision machined body" being sold now, and give that Perfect another try.
:D
 
The "Perfect" and "Auto Drum" use the same drum, you might want to buy a 4 pack of the "precision machined body" being sold now, and give that Perfect another try.
:D

Hmm, ya never know, esp if I need something using flake only.

Gotta say though, these last 25 years with my cast iron RCBS Uniflow have been great, and going to something not as hefty, sturdy, trouble free and a real pleasure to use would be very difficult. Got mine with an employee discount for $40, and have never regretted it for a nano-second... I wonder if new Uniflow production is still top notch?
 
My "Perfect" powder measure leaks. I keep a tray under it to dump the powder back in to it. To be expected at $20 I guess.
 
Just google "lee auto drum leaking" for the people who have not had problems. It's pretty obvious something is wrong with the manufacturing. Your's works simply because you caught the functional side of what must be a god awful amount of production variation. I can't imagine being a lee engineer... seeing decent ideas bastardized by super cheap manufacturing.
 
I have an early issue Auto Drum and yes it leaked, also broke and jammed twice in the 1st year. Both times I sent it back and both times I had it back within 4 days of the day I sent it. Both times it returned with a list of new parts and a description of what was done. The last time it came back with both new drums with the machined surfaces. Since then it has been problem free with no leakage and that is using AA#2, AA#5, HP-38 and Ramshot Silhouette. The Accurate and Ramshot powders are much finer than the HP-38 and I get more spillage from the cases turning on the progressive press than I do from the measure.

To some of the others I am assuming that you are not using those Lyman or RCBS measures on top of a progressive press and mounted to a powder thru die.
 
Just google "lee auto drum leaking" for the people who have not had problems. It's pretty obvious something is wrong with the manufacturing. Your's works simply because you caught the functional side of what must be a god awful amount of production variation. I can't imagine being a lee engineer... seeing decent ideas bastardized by super cheap manufacturing.

You have written what I have thought for a very long time... Innovative products that work well when in tolerance, but no so much when out. I know it's all about price-point, esp being made in the USA (thankful for this), and I'm actually amazed they can do much of it at all. They have a very long history of metal and plastic casting, simple designs, and pretty good support, but I'd rather not have to use said support so much compared to other makers, or have to fiddle/polish/hope *I* can fix an issue that should not be an inherent, chronic problem.

One really glaring issue I have seen enough times since around the time of posting below, to pretty much turn me off the Lee molds, is noted by this fella from the Gray Beard forum posted back in 2010 directly from LEE. It relates to a manufacturing change, and the dropping of their "Guaranteed to be round within .001". Maybe like me, you too remember the claim in Lee advertising? I have an ad brochure from late 70/early 80's that made a big deal mentioning this, and if I find it I'll post it up.

The posting:

https://www.go2gbo.com/forums/99-as...e-molds-guaranteed-within-001-round-oops.html

Lee .001 mold resized.jpg

I had the same issue with several sets I bought in several diameters, and again I like to buy a product and use it with confidence, not have to fiddle/adjust, and still have lopsided bullets, with misaligned blocks. Not acceptable at any price-point. My molds from the early 80's til the mid 90's or so still drop round bullets. Sure, Lee was helpful as always, as with their other manufacturing defects, but again how many sour balls does it take to make your stomach ache, and no longer wish 'to be sick'?

I hate to have to give the std "I'm not a LEE basher", but I would be very disingenuous to say that I have had anywhere near as many faults proportionally with other brands, than I have had with LEE.
 

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You have written what I have thought for a very long time... Innovative products that work well when in tolerance, but no so much when out. I know it's all about price-point, esp being made in the USA (thankful for this), and I'm actually amazed they can do much of it at all. They have a very long history of metal and plastic casting, simple designs, and pretty good support, but I'd rather not have to use said support so much compared to other makers, or have to fiddle/polish/hope *I* can fix an issue that should not be an inherent, chronic problem.

One really glaring issue I have seen enough times since around the time of posting below, to pretty much turn me off the Lee molds, is noted by this fella from the Gray Beard forum posted back in 2010 directly from LEE. It relates to a manufacturing change, and the dropping of their "Guaranteed to be round within .001". Maybe like me, you too remember the claim in Lee advertising? I have an ad brochure from late 70/early 80's that made a big deal mentioning this, and if I find it I'll post it up.

The posting:

https://www.go2gbo.com/forums/99-as...e-molds-guaranteed-within-001-round-oops.html

View attachment 832153

I had the same issue with several sets I bought in several diameters, and again I like to buy a product and use it with confidence, not have to fiddle/adjust, and still have lopsided bullets, with misaligned blocks. Not acceptable at any price-point. My molds from the early 80's til the mid 90's or so still drop round bullets. Sure, Lee was helpful as always, as with their other manufacturing defects, but again how many sour balls does it take to make your stomach ache, and no longer wish 'to be sick'?

I hate to have to give the std "I'm not a LEE basher", but I would be very disingenuous to say that I have had anywhere near as many faults proportionally with other brands, than I have had with LEE.


What does posting a letter from a third party about Lee Molds have to do with the OPs topic??. You state you are not bashing but the whole post is a bash about something else from 9 years ago??

If the OP has an issue perhaps he should call or e mail Lee. He may just be able to return the whole measure and they will replace it.

Yes, there are many posts, video on the web about Lee products/the Powder Measure.

Rather than rant and nit pick then just buy another brand.
It serve no purpose other than to "bash" and then say you are not.
 
What does posting a letter from a third party about Lee Molds have to do with the OPs topic??. You state you are not bashing but the whole post is a bash about something else from 9 years ago??

If the OP has an issue perhaps he should call or e mail Lee. He may just be able to return the whole measure and they will replace it.

Yes, there are many posts, video on the web about Lee products/the Powder Measure.

Rather than rant and nit pick then just buy another brand.
It serve no purpose other than to "bash" and then say you are not.

Well, you missed this:

Maybe a 'bad' one slipped out of the plant, and they can make it live up to their own claims until it works?

Pretty much what you said, yet you consider *this* bashing? Along with my mentioning of good service rendered by LEE, the many times I have had to use it, hardly seems bashing to me... I would have found it encouraging if I were the OP... The unit can hopefully be repaired and returned back, or if the taste was too bad he could hopefully get a refund and try another brand. Seems pretty OK by me.

My hands on experience I convey here, I do to help folks... For the OP, and potentially others who may be in the position to consider a product. Had I wished to 'bash', the old "it sucks" w/o any actual experience to back it up, I'd say would fit the definition well. If well meaning, non-hostile, civil, brand agnostic posting, based on actual extensive experience added because of another posters post seems out of line to you, then we seem to reckon things differently and/or I'd suggest you place me on an ignored members list.

Not to knit-pick, but you also missed where I mentioned I might buy another LEE measure... Can't do a cherry pick rant when you want to call someone a basher (you can but...), yet not acknowledge the other side. I call em like I see em (and have actually used), same for you I hope.

Lastly, if you consider my brand new, locked up "Perfect" powder measure I had that was set up and used properly as knit-picking and bashing, again we see things differently. Gotta give the late Mr. Lee credit; he sure had a gift for hyperbole, and was also one of the greatest gifts to reloaders... He truly seemed to love what he did, and IMO was an innovative leader. Thanks Mr. Lee for starting off a wide-eyed teenager all those years ago to reloading.
 
Back to powder measures and Lee in particular. I have 4 Lee measures myself and know a few people that use twice that many. I have one Auto Drum and three Auto Disks and yes I use them all on top of turret or progressive presses along with powder thru expander dies. I have one Auto disk Pro, one Auto disk that had the upgrade kit and one regular Auto Disk with the little red square hopper. Again I use them all frequently.

I also use these measures on a Lee Pro1000 that I also prime on press and anyone that knows anything about this press they will know that the primer chute will quickly foul and stop working if dirt or lose powder finds its way in. So to me any leakage is a major problem. Then I also use these on a Lee Turret press for small runs and load development. I have will little work been able to eliminate the leakage from all these measures.

Right now I am using the Auto drum measure on some 9mm and mostly 45acp because I tried using the Auto Drum on the Pro1000 with the 380 and started having all sorts of problems with the case feeding into the die. I was getting about 1 out of 7 cases in the 380 coming out of the die and measure with a big chip in the side of the case. Like the expander was clipping the case off. I tried all sorts of things to relieve this and nothing worked. Amazingly I switched the measure from the Drum to the Disk and the problem magically disappeared! After talking with a few people on the forums we kind of came up with a theory that the internal return spring in the Drum is too still for the small light 380 cases. So I quite using the Drum with the 380 auto.

No others makes a reasonably priced Auto measure that will work with the Lee powder die on either the turret or the progressives. And every day I am reading of more and more Dillon 550 users going with this die and measure set up. So like everything else at this price point if one of these measures breaks I will throw it way and just buy another. Just like computers, phones and flat screen TV they are just not worth repairing.
 
I guess it comes down to how much junk will you put up with to save a few bucks. For now it's cool just need to keep up on cleaning or spend a grand for a Dillon set up.
 
When mine leaked I took it apart and cleaned it ( a must if it starts leaking because it's just going to leak more until it jams up . I then sprayed graphite spray lube inside the body and on the insert . This allowed me to tighten the drum up a little more then before and it still rotated fine sealing it from leaks .
 
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