Anybody use (blue) Lock-Tight on your scope mounts.....

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I had a scope that worked great on one rifle. I moved it to another and it seemed to wander all over the place. The screws in the front base never remained torqued to where they were supposed to be. So I ended up putting a little Blue Loctite on them. So far, so good.
 
Sometimes I do and sometimes not, no issues either way. I'd say it is not necessary but there is no harm in using it either.
 
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There seems to be a suggestion in this thread that if one uses a "quality" as opposed to "cheap" I assume, that thread locking products are not required. That suggestion makes no sense to me in that mount screws, taps used to tap treads in the gun are all in accordance with the standards set fourth in the "Machinery's Handbook". Also, the mounts I have have through holes and as such have no bearing on the screws and their mating holes in the gun. Therefore, why would the cost of a scope mount be a factor (assuming proper torque) in the screws coming loose or not. Someone is going to have to explain it to me...be specific please.
 
I like Locktite Purple/222. I holds but does not require a lot of force to loosen.
 
Better to use it and not need it than no use it and need it blue locktite dose not require a lot of force to remove. so yes I use it on every mounting screw
 
I don't as a rule but it definitely doesn't hurt. I primarily use Warne QD rings and they don't need it. Blue or purple, it's cheap insurance.


There seems to be a suggestion in this thread that if one uses a "quality" as opposed to "cheap" I assume, that thread locking products are not required. That suggestion makes no sense to me in that mount screws, taps used to tap treads in the gun are all in accordance with the standards set fourth in the "Machinery's Handbook". Also, the mounts I have have through holes and as such have no bearing on the screws and their mating holes in the gun. Therefore, why would the cost of a scope mount be a factor (assuming proper torque) in the screws coming loose or not. Someone is going to have to explain it to me...be specific please.
Because cheap rings typically can't be torqued as high as quality rings. Has nothing to do with the taps or the threads but the material in which they are cut. Which is usually the difference between aluminum and steel. Higher quality usually equals better tolerances, which means less wiggle room. The less need for glue to keep things from shaking loose. Some of the cheap aluminum rings I used in the past certainly needed all the help they could get.
 
I didn't, but then I had a couple of mounts that loosened up, so now, yes, every screw. I hate mounting scopes, even more I hate dissembling and remounting a scope/mount that has become loose.
 
Interesting responses in this thread.

most of my high quality mounts for optics came with screws that already had been dipped in some sort of blue stuff that dried which I assume to be thread locking juice.

If I have to remove and reinstall I always reapply blue and I always use a torque wrench
 
I never did use lock-tight on my scope mounts, but recently, upon purchasing a new scope, the smithy who works for the shop advised me that it is his standard practice to apply lock-tight to all the threads of his mounts when installing a scope.

Waddya think?
Always !!!! And On anything I ever Mounted on a bow.
 
I always use blue locative on base screws and always use a torque wrench on base and ring screws.
 
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