Aut-O-Cap

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grter said:
Where do you get this ?

Aut-o-cap does not show up on search engine
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I bought from a fellow on facebook and I assumed it was a Tap-O-Cap but it turns out that it was a Aut-O-Cap! It is no longer produced I’m afraid...for whatever the reason they stopped production on these a long time ago and only have the Tap-O-Cap. These were produced by Forster it seems.

TheOutlawKid said:
Mr.Darth-vang Sign me up! How much for you to make me one sir?
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Hahaha! Sorry man I didn’t make this and I have no machinist background. But if people really need these perhaps I can get a bunch of people to sign up to get a bunch of these made in one go? I could send it in to someone who has knowledge about making these?
 
Darth-Vang said:
I bought from a fellow on facebook and I assumed it was a Tap-O-Cap but it turns out that it was a Aut-O-Cap! It is no longer produced I’m afraid...for whatever the reason they stopped production on these a long time ago and only have the Tap-O-Cap. These were produced by Forster it seems.

Hahaha! Sorry man I didn’t make this and I have no machinist background. But if people really need these perhaps I can get a bunch of people to sign up to get a bunch of these made in one go? I could send it in to someone who has knowledge about making these?
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I don't have a press, i use that weird lee loader kit to reload. But uhh, sure
 
I have a Auto-Cap also.Production is between 600 to 800 per hour,if I don't make any mistakes. I have also made a poor version of that.It works well enough but is homely. I have probably made 10,000 cups with the home made die. The current production by 22 reloader can be made to work this way too. It could also be rigged up to a arbor press or heavy drill press with less effort. In the past I have offered to make the mods to the 22reloader die so it could be used on a reloading press.Nobody was interested. I have ordered the 22 reloader die just to see what needs to be done. It may get here someday.
Black Jack Shellac
 
I would like a cap maker that is made from a really hard tool steel as the one i got from .22 reloader has lost the sharpness of its teeth...it still works..but id still prefer a higher quality tool steel or perhaps a better heat treat. Another thing is i would like it to make caps that fit on aftermarket nipples such as Slixshots etc....the current cap maker only makes caps that fit my stock pietya nipples...if i try to force them onto my aftermarket nipples it causes the cap to become damaged in most cases...makes them spread open and not really grasp the nipple. Also would like them to be taller...they are short..if they were taller they may allow for extra space for those people using roll dots and fine black powder. The roll dots take a lot of space. Just my .02 input on design. I guess i should just be lucky were even able to get a cap maker . i got mine a few years back.
 
TheOutlawKid said:
I would like a cap maker that is made from a really hard tool steel as the one i got from .22 reloader has lost the sharpness of its teeth...it still works..but id still prefer a higher quality tool steel or perhaps a better heat treat. Another thing is i would like it to make caps that fit on aftermarket nipples such as Slixshots etc....the current cap maker only makes caps that fit my stock pietya nipples...if i try to force them onto my aftermarket nipples it causes the cap to become damaged in most cases...makes them spread open and not really grasp the nipple. Also would like them to be taller...they are short..if they were taller they may allow for extra space for those people using roll dots and fine black powder. The roll dots take a lot of space. Just my .02 input on design. I guess i should just be lucky were even able to get a cap maker . i got mine a few years back.
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What are roll dots?
 
Fyrstyk said:
The old paper cap rolls we used as kids in our Hop-A-Long Cassidy six shooters. Maybe you are not old enough to remember then. It has been quite awhile for me, but I was able to buy some on Flea-bay about a year ago.
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Not old enough huh? Let me go to my vault and bring out my first six irons.

We got a wieird Schofield/1899 combo, as well as a 1851 navy with a factory open top cap conversion.

Then we got our detective specials.

Then we got a Pony Boy and a more modern pony boy clone, both of which use roll dots. I'd honestly either never heard them called that, or have forgotten. I don't meant to seem defensive, just that your explanation brought back some really old and good memories man. 1616343256078712632374936941843.jpg 16163432921888685138151817141449.jpg 16163433193861559230352652256133.jpg 16163434247953194908932470595663.jpg 16163435586915239055335996286221.jpg
 
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If the forming post in the die can be removed .A larger one with a taper should work. . Maybe open up the inside of the punch constriction too to provide more room. If you are good with a cheap diamond file you can sharpen the teeth. I have done it on my old Forrester. Auto Cap. That's the trouble with hand held units. The teeth tend to get banged around easily. My home made die isn't hardened and the teeth are good to go after many thousands on punchings. Making a deeper cup would take a whole new unit and I don't think you could get a whole lot out of it.
Black Jack Shellac
 
I am stunned you kept these this long and in such excellent condition. I last used caps trying to prove Disneyland sold me a working firearm, (they did, story for another time), and that was at least 40 years ago.
I had no idea there were even cap making kits out there - I thought I was completely at the mercy of the cap companies. If such a tool CAN be mounted to a standard loading press, I would be FASCINATED....
 
Darth-vang Has a picture of just such a tool at the beginning of this thread. The threaded part screws into the reloading press from the bottom. In most presses you would run it way up. The part with the teeth will go on a 38spl shell holder and on the ram. A C press is ok as long as the press frame has clearance for the die body. I use a Lee Challenger O press myself. The punched out cups will fall out through the ram like fired primers.The cap making die currently being made is intended for hand use. It wouldn't be very hard to make it work in a drill press or arbor press. The die body can be threaded to work on a reloading press..The Prime-all kit is powerful and even good for pyrodex.If it's good enough for that,it will work for anything.
Black Jack Shellac
 
Black Jack Shellac said:
Darth-vang Has a picture of just such a tool at the beginning of this thread. The threaded part screws into the reloading press from the bottom. In most presses you would run it way up. The part with the teeth will go on a 38spl shell holder and on the ram. A C press is ok as long as the press frame has clearance for the die body. I use a Lee Challenger O press myself. The punched out cups will fall out through the ram like fired primers.The cap making die currently being made is intended for hand use. It wouldn't be very hard to make it work in a drill press or arbor press. The die body can be threaded to work on a reloading press..The Prime-all kit is powerful and even good for pyrodex.If it's good enough for that,it will work for anything.
Black Jack Shellac
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Like you, I am using the Lee Classic cast press. It is a breeze punching out the caps and have it collected in the tube. The perfect setup!! :D:D:D
 
Darth-Vang said:
This press mounted version Tap-O-Cap is in my opinion superior! Made many many percussion caps with less time and energy spent on making the tiny caps. And no worries about hitting my thumb!
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When I saw the Tap-O-Cap, I thought it was obvious it should be threaded to use in a press. I wonder why they dropped that model?
 
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I wish there was a cap maker that punched out cross (plus sign? Like this "+") shapes that then got pushed to make a cap...like the way Remington caps are made. They are cross shaped and then formed into a cup..this makes them "petal" open when the caps explode. I wish i knew a tool maker or machinist that could make such a cap maker. The current cap makers punch our a circle/disk out of the material and then its pushed over a steel pin/dowel to form it into a cup...there has to be a way to make a cross shape get punched out instead of a round disk. This would allow for thicker and/or stronger material to be used successfully such as roof flashing etc. Currently the .005 copper sheets sold in a roll from Hobby Lobby work the best
 
TheOutlawKid said:
I wish there was a cap maker that punched out cross (plus sign? Like this "+") shapes that then got pushed to make a cap...like the way Remington caps are made. They are cross shaped and then formed into a cup..this makes them "petal" open when the caps explode. I wish i knew a tool maker or machinist that could make such a cap maker. The current cap makers punch our a circle/disk out of the material and then its pushed over a steel pin/dowel to form it into a cup...there has to be a way to make a cross shape get punched out instead of a round disk. This would allow for thicker and/or stronger material to be used successfully such as roof flashing etc. Currently the .005 copper sheets sold in a roll from Hobby Lobby work the best
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I would think it’s possible. Just need to find someone willing to do it. And a big fat wallet.
 
Black Jack Shellac said:
Darth-vang Has a picture of just such a tool at the beginning of this thread. The threaded part screws into the reloading press from the bottom. In most presses you would run it way up. The part with the teeth will go on a 38spl shell holder and on the ram. A C press is ok as long as the press frame has clearance for the die body. I use a Lee Challenger O press myself. The punched out cups will fall out through the ram like fired primers.The cap making die currently being made is intended for hand use. It wouldn't be very hard to make it work in a drill press or arbor press. The die body can be threaded to work on a reloading press..The Prime-all kit is powerful and even good for pyrodex.If it's good enough for that,it will work for anything.
Black Jack Shellac
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I think I'm in love...:D I have an RCBS RS single stage O press from 1981, that has been going strong for me for many years. I assumed there is a specific kind of copper sheet stock to use, or can caps be made out of anything, like the gents who make gas checks for cast boolits out of beer cans?
 
Yes thats the one i have...i wrote a write up a couple years back on a method and materials. Heres the link

https://www.thehighroad.org/index.php?threads/how-i-make-hot-percussion-caps.849353/

I have used aluminum in the past but the best cap material is .005 thick copper sheeting from Hobby Lobby. It has the perfect strength. Alumimum caps arent strong enough to hold in much needed pressure that shoots into the nipple cone....aluminum will work just not as good, especially if youre going to make a hotter primer mix such as FA-42 or H-48. The copper hulls stay intact most of the time while the aluminum ones get mangled and turned to shrapnel that can jam a gun. If your going to use a cap made from toy roll cap/dots and a grain of fine black powder then thr aluminum cups work fine...hotter primer material you should stick with .005/36 gauge copper or brass sheeting.
 
TheOutlawKid said:
Yes thats the one i have...i wrote a write up a couple years back on a method and materials. Heres the link

https://www.thehighroad.org/index.php?threads/how-i-make-hot-percussion-caps.849353/

I have used aluminum in the past but the best cap material is .005 thick copper sheeting from Hobby Lobby. It has the perfect strength. Alumimum caps arent strong enough to hold in much needed pressure that shoots into the nipple cone....aluminum will work just not as good, especially if youre going to make a hotter primer mix such as FA-42 or H-48. The copper hulls stay intact most of the time while the aluminum ones get mangled and turned to shrapnel that can jam a gun. If your going to use a cap made from toy roll cap/dots and a grain of fine black powder then thr aluminum cups work fine...hotter primer material you should stick with .005/36 gauge copper or brass sheeting.
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I saw your posts and went with yours. And did you experiment with other thicknesses? I’d love to hear about the other thicknesses and how it performs. And I find using the tap-o-cap with just a hammer seems to take a bit more effort to punch it out vs the aluminum cans.
 
Hobby Lobby isn't so cheap anymore. That 40% off is gone. That pushes the price up to almost $.02 per cup . If you are going copper ,it's going to cost. I use both copper and pop cans. I use a two layer pop can setup .It's way stronger than a single layer.
Darth-Vang If you don't already,you need to put something on the ram to limit down travel.A hose clamp works very well. If you don't you will be forever lowering the ram too much and crashing the punch teeth into the die bottom. That is a bad thing.Been there done that.Learn from my mistakes.
Kid someone on another site did make a Punch and Die like you are talking about. It looked like it worked but would have been way slower than what we now have.
Black Jack Shellac
 
This is the copper sheeting i use...i get 40-44 per inch of material and it comes with 30 inches of material. So you can get atleast 1200 caps with the roll.

https://www.hobbylobby.com/Crafts-Hobbies/Wood-Crafting/Hardware-Tools/Copper-Roll/p/21910

I also got a 1x20 foot long roll of aluminum on amazon pretty cheap, like 20 bucks.. Same .005 thickness...but very soft so it had to be doubled up. Aluminum cans work great too...as mr.blackjackshellac says...they have to be double layered.
 
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