Aut-O-Cap

[Midniterider58]

Thank you Black Jack,just started digging around and found Theoutlawkids post on making percussion caps. Very informative, and from what I gather duco cement is the way to go. Kind of wish I had saved all of those percussion caps from years ago I bought for my very first muzzleloader,but I've always been a want to do it myself type of person (wife really hates this sometimes).

 

[Dave Markowitz]

Dave Either nipples with smaller holes or thicker or harder caps should stop the problems.where did you get the copper?

Agreed. Compared with the Treso AMPCO nipples I've added to my Dance and a couple Pietta Remingtons, the flash holes on my R&S are much larger in diameter.

I used "K&S Precision Metals 6020 Soft Annealed Copper Foil, 0.005 Copper, 36 Gauge, 12" Width x 30" Length, 1 pc, Made in USA" from Amazon to make these caps.

 

[Just4FunOldGuns]

Midniterider The prime all is powerful and more than does the job. There is a problem with it crumbling and falling out. That is easily fixed with one of several binders anyone can use. There has been lots of info about this here lately. You can easily find it.
Black Jack Shellac[/QUOTE]

Binder is definitely needed, found that the hard way. No matter how much I shake the little jar, nothing comes out of the caps. I too started re-reading all the other posts and even found the link to the TheOutlawKid's original posting on making caps.

Black Jack, if I do end up welding the top base, it will be just a quick tack weld with my mig welder. Also thinking about Welding on a 1" shaft collar on the end of the Quick change, probable a split one. I also ordered some of the Lee Lock Bushings, they have the collar built in, but the unit is aluminum. I will decide Friday what will work best when my order gets here from Midway.
If this does work like I think it will, others will be able to use it on their non-Lee reloading press's. Lee make's an adapter for them to fit most.
https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1021759892

 

[Just4FunOldGuns]

Kit includes:

• Breech lock adapter
• Spline drive lock-ring eliminator
• Lock-ring wrench

1-1/4"-12 Compatible with the following presses:

• Lee Precision Classic Cast
• Hornady Iron
• Hornady Classic / Lock-N-Load
• RCBS Rock Chucker Supreme
• Redding Big Boss
• Redding 700 Ultramag

1-1/2"-12 Compatible with the following presses:

• Hornady 50 BMG
• Dillon BFR 50BMG
• RCBS AmmoMaster 2

Made In United States of America

 

[Black Jack Shellac]

Ok You are inspired so have at it. How are you going to get the I.D. of the breach lock up to .980 to fit the cap maker inside? How do you plan to weld aluminum to steel ? I like inventiveness
MR Dave K&S makes the same thing in brass reported to work well and just a bit harder. That would stop the flow back in your caps.
Black Jack Shellac

 

[Just4FunOldGuns]

Well, Maybe a complete bust on my old Lee as after digging it out, no removable die nut, so I ordered the 1-1/4" for my Chucker and ended up with this. Original RCBS was made out of Steele, Lee adapter is aluminum, so after drilling with a 15/16" bit and honing the rest to get a press in fit I ended up JB welding it. (If I had to do over I would hot melt it and have it adjustable and removable) Unfortunately it is a pain to both hold the copper and operate the press handle, So I just screw it in the opposite way and operate it the normal way, hitting the end with the palm of my hand and tipping out the completed cap. One nice thing since my bench is made so that I stand when reloading, I can see how far I move the copper over and how centered it is. Also I can put pressure down and hold the copper in place with fingers on either side of the maker. I can do one side of the copper in minute's. Then cut off the punched ends and start again. In about a 12.5" x 4" piece I can get 200 caps, 25 per row.
I could have drilled out the Lee, and JB'd the maker to it, but that old 30 year thing still has sentimental value, even if I haven't used it in years.
The 3/4" union is what I came up with to hold the punch.

 

[Black Jack Shellac]

How di you attach the punch to the ram? You would need to be able to pull the punch back down. You had the right idea to begin with. Since the press is a O frame the strips can't be very wide. I would give it a try again. JB weld will let go with about 400F temp about soldering hot.You get it set up right and very high production is easy.
Black Jack Shellac

 

[Just4FunOldGuns]

I tried about a 1-1/6" strip of copper. It was difficult to see the copper location as opposed to the cap former hole, a lot of 1/2 caps. I might try and break the JB loose and lower the former about 1/8" +. I used a piece of 1" ID hose. Temporarily I used a hose clamp, but if I would do this I would look for a old time car radiator wire clamp, about 1-1/4". The hose around the union is a tight fit. Trouble with the RCBS is the cap followed the expended primer channel, and if I didn't wad up a ball of tape and place it in the channel, cap would end up on the Chucker handle.

 

[Just4FunOldGuns]

The Union I cut off the flared end with a hack saw and just planed/ sanded the cut end on my table saw to about a 1/4" had to raise the flare up a little, but just hot melted it to my drill bit guide. Wood side piece's are there just so I can keep the sanding block across the top flat.

 

[Black Jack Shellac]

When I made caps on my Rock Chucker.Some years ago. I used a home made die for this. It did work in the fashion you are trying to use. I had to to insert a bit of wood into the primer channel. It was friction fit and the top was angled .That allowed the cups to hit the angled wood and bounce out and mostly fall into the spent primer tray. Don't do anything drastic as I'm going to change my die set for reloading press use. Right now my die is in a drill press. This works well and for many would be the way to go. The reloading press is less clunky though. I do admire your way of mounting the punch.
Black Jack Shellac