Crack in .44 frame

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Gus Chiggins

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I was cleaning my S&W .44 mag revolver and spotted a little line on the frame. I at first assumed it was a dog hair but realized on closer inspection that it indeed is a crack. I've been firing factory ammo and middle of the table reloads. The hottest thing I've put in it was a couple rounds of Hornady 300gr XTPs.
Fortunately I purchased it locally and can't bring it in personally.
Do I want another one??? Sheesh. 20220619_172952.jpg 20220619_173043.jpg 20220619_173137.jpg
 
RKRCPA is right. Those are the edges of the removable sideplate on a Smith & Wesson. It is there to give access for installing, lubricating, adjusting, or repairing the trigger mechanism. Colt sideplates were on the other side of the gun, and most other manufacturers don't use sideplates. At least, not any more.
 
Don’t feel bad @Gus Chiggins
A friend of mine had the same concern with his brand new 586. He swore it was cracked after firing some factory .357 ammo. He felt a little silly. I told him not to worry about it. It’s a learning experience. He said he was so focused on the area where he first saw the crack that he didn’t even consider it could be a side plate.
 
My Dan Wesson doesn't have that crack...??? ;)
Nor any Ruger Security Six, Speed Six, Redhawk, GP100 and Super Redhawk!

Does this design without side plate make Ruger and DW revolvers frames stronger than S&W, Colt and Taurus? I doubt, since the weakest point on any DA revolver frame is under barrel thread, cutout for the cylinder crane. Well, in that respect SA revolvers, for the same weight, have stronger frames than any DA revolver.

In other words, IMO that side plate doesn't make any S&W, Colt or Taurus "weak". Same goes for fluted cylinders v/s "stronger" non-fluted ones.
 
I was cleaning my S&W .44 mag revolver and spotted a little line on the frame. I at first assumed it was a dog hair but realized on closer inspection that it indeed is a crack. I've been firing factory ammo and middle of the table reloads. The hottest thing I've put in it was a couple rounds of Hornady 300gr XTPs.
Assuming we are talking about S&W M629. I would use Hornady 300gr XTPs and similar rounds VERY SPARINGLY in S&W revolvers. If you want to shoot something like that, get Ruger Super Blackhawk, Bisley, Redhawk or Super Redhawk, they are designed to take such heavy rounds.

BTW, for me it's mandatory before shooting to put just the drop of heavier oil on any both ends of the cylinder on any SA revolver.
 
Phew!! I see the seam now to the rear of the hammer. Thank you for the correct information. And no one called me a dumb ass. Lol. This is the High Road.
I also learned how to take close up pics with my new phone. The upside.
Not going to lie. I was thinking it after I realized you were serious ROFL! This gave me a good laugh. I thought that maybe you were being sarcastic at first as some Ruger fans like to bring up and bash S&W's side plate design in versus threads.

Congrats on what I assume is your first S&W revolver. It most likely will not be your last.
 
Phew!! I see the seam now to the rear of the hammer. Thank you for the correct information. And no one called me a dumb ass. Lol. This is the High Road.
I also learned how to take close up pics with my new phone. The upside.


Don’t feel bad when I got my first S&W a 586 No dash I thought the barrel was ruined because it had a small hole in the bottom of it I was sick I got on here and may he Rest In Peace @rcmodel was like no that’s supposed to be there don’t worry you’ll learn that kind of stuff and so I have learned some stuff man I miss him ……..
 
I am proud that no one dumped on the OP for asking a sincere question.

Good on you, THR posters! :)

And for the OP, a good revolver is a beautiful thing. You will be enjoying yours for many years. :)
That’s why people are here!
 
OP I think that's happened to everyone in some way or another. 20 years ago I took an old Garand I had just bought off a work friend (my first one), and sent it in to a gunsmith to overhaul it. When I got it back I discovered that when I seated an enbloc clip into the action, the bolt would release itself, which it was not doing before. I raced out onto the CMP forums at the time explaining my frustration that it appeared the gunsmith had messed up my Garand. "Uh, that's the way they're supposed to work", was in multiple replies :oops:
 
Now the next step in the learning process
is to get screw driver(s) properly sized for
the slots of the screws that hold the side
plate.

Periodically check the tightness of the screws
after shooting sessions. They do come loose.

A very loose or lost screw over the trigger guard will
allow the cylinder to fall out of the gun. The
other screws if loose will allow the innards to
not mesh properly and the gun will cease
working properly.

Mas Ayoob amusingly tells of time he switched
to a Ruger GP100 in competition because he
lost the cylinder screw and the cylinder fell to
the ground during a reload.

Older Colts not only had the cylinder screw but
an adjacent slightly overlapping second screw to
double secure the cylinder screw. It was a pretty
neat setup.
 
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I don't know about that. It's pretty random and isn't in a straight line. I hope it is a plate. It's my first big revolver.
i thought this was a joke and i thought this guy is really commited to the joke with such a long post. as explained it is the sideplate.
 
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