Caps not firing

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SSBN617b

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Ok , newbie here.
I bought a used revolver here last year, due to life issues I never got to try it out. Today I was at the range and lo and behold one out of six chambers fired. Many cap changes later I was still stuck with two unfired loads. I removed the powder and balls and cleaned it up.
The caps where unopened in my garage for a year. So does that mean the are no good?
Can they be dried out or bad ?
 
It is an open top. 1979 Euro Arms 1860 Army. Don’t remember the caps but can look at the Sunday
 
I will try the caps again, probably my fault not seating them. I had to leave the range early in frustration as there was a constant request to go down range.
Maybe I should bring a spotting scope and let the AR guys borrow it so I can shoot.
 
Check the barrel to cylinder gap, if it's too big it's most likely the problem, it should be between .002 to .006. It will still function at .006 but if it's really wide like around .012 reliability falls way off. Everything is based around the arbor bedding properly. With a short arbor you have a different gap each time you put the gun back together. Another thing to look at is size of the nipples. Are they #10 or #11 nipples and what size caps are you using? I found that CCI # 11 caps work really well if the taper on the nipples is at .174 at the midway point.
 
Get a piece of wood dowel to seat them with. Caps are not pressure sensitive. It takes a sharp blow to set them off but if the priming compound isn't seated against the nipple they wont work.
 
Perhaps trying the caps on a unloaded pistol might eliminate whether it's the caps or not. ? Un-opened caps can go bad, I have a tin of musket caps of such ilk, some fire, some don't. They are my "target" or "working up a load" caps, they keep me very "honest" as some don't fire, some hang fire. They require good follow-through! No flinching allowed.
 
The caps are probably ok. Either the caps are not seated all the way down on the nipples or someone has lightened the hammer spring as part of a “tune-up”. If the revolver is real easy to cock, I suspect the hammer spring is the culprit. A strong hammer spring alleviates many problems.
 
Could be a bazillion and one things. Plus a couple other things. Or it could be something else. Don't forget short cones. Or, the lower part of the hammer could be hitting the frame before the nose hits the cones. Maybe a jokester put super glue in the cones. Or spiked them with toothpicks.

First time I took my 1862 out back to shoot it...click-click-click. It was kind of a combination of all the things mentioned so far. !!! (except for the super glue and toothpicks)

Anyhow...good luck!
 
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But don't be discouraged, with a couple shakes of his magic wand, a black cat tooth and a mojo bone, Jack made that Little Brat behave. !
 
OP, you say "one out of six chambers fired"
Did the caps go off "crack" like a cap gun but no boom?
or did the hammer just fall on the caps and no "snap" or "crack"
The answer to that will lead you down entirely different paths to a solution.
 
Hammer fell with no snap of crack. I was getting 2 out of five on average.
The hammer does cock easy I guess but I have nothing to compare it with.
 
Make sure the nipples have a sharp edge around them. You want a nice flat surface for the hammer to strike.
 
Quick check:

Remove the grips so you can see the hammer spring. Is the screw that holds the hammer in place ( down at the bottom of the spring) tightened all the way down with no spacer between the base of the spring and the grip frame? Sometimes folks put a washer or leather spacer between the spring and frame to reduce spring tension and make the gun easier to cock. Remove any spacer that may be present and tighten the screw all the way down. Also look at the spring itself. Does it look like the edges have been filed or ground down? (another redneck method for reducing spring strength). If so, get a new spring.
 
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