1911 .45 ACP Tips and Tricks

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aaaaa said:
I would love to fully disassemble a 1911 if I had a spare gun to do it to and a lot of free time. I have neither. :(
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Detail stripping and reassembly of a 1911 can be done in under an hour. Two hours if you have to stop to watch YouTube videos. It really is a simple pistol - part of JMB’s genius!
 
Like entropy, I like the Kuhnhausen book. But, as also mentioned, you may want a more basic book first.

Initially, I was pretty much unhappy with 1911s due to the ergonomics. The addition of extended thumb safeties made all the difference in the world... night and day for me. My thumb goes clear past a standard 1911 safety and I used to have to make an awkward movement to hit it. The extended type makes operation more "natural".
 
My Colt Mark IV Series 70 locked back on me a few years ago, I disassembled it almost to the bare frame, residue in the trigger channel was the problem. With the proper tools-and books- it is easy to work on.
 
aaaaa said:
Safety glasses for those flying parts too. Now that you have displayed the proper way to hold a 1911 my trigger finger situation has worsened. :rofl:
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this is how i grip all my handguns:

i switched to the zins grip about eight years ago (read his article on the bullseye central website). i "index" the gun in my palm swell and the first knuckle of my trigger finger (placement on the trigger). this also works great two handed and off-handed (left, for me). the most important part is the "straight wrist" that results from putting the gun in your palm swell.

luck,

murf
 
murf said:
this is how i grip all my handguns:

i switched to the zins grip about eight years ago (read his article on the bullseye central website). i "index" the gun in my palm swell and the first knuckle of my trigger finger (placement on the trigger). this also works great two handed and off-handed (left, for me). the most important part is the "straight wrist" that results from putting the gun in your palm swell.

luck,

murf
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Well that definitely means I have to arc my finger to make this work. But he is right, you get a much better and quicker aim if you hold it as he says to.
 
I am 6'6". My FiL is 6'8". We have long hands even for our size. We both shoot 1911's just fine.

If you have XXL hands, sometimes you have to hold pistols a little differently than other people.

You can make it work. Hickock45 is also 6'8" or so. He's an outstanding shot.
 
Well this is going to be tricky for those of us who haven't read all previous posts, but here's something I didn't know, from Bill Wilson and Ken Hackathorn: This goes along with the original post: Don't let the slide slam shut on an empty chamber.

Wilson said there's no stopping people from doing it at gun shows; he just accepts that he has to repair the guns before selling them.
 
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Smaug said:
... from Bill Wilson and Ken Hackathorn: This goes along with the original post: Don't let the mag slam shut on an empty chamber.
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Probably a typo, but I'm pretty sure it is "don't let the slide slam shut on an empty chamber".
 
JTQ said:
There is less logic to detail stripping the frame. There isn't much that will get dirty and affect function. Outside of dropping your gun in the ocean, or replacing a broken part, you can probably go a lifetime and never need to detail strip the frame of a 1911.
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The logic behind detail stripping and cleaning the frame is the same as it is for the slide. For example, trigger bow to frame friction will start to increase when burned powder residue starts to accumulate inside the frame.

JTQ said:
you can probably go a lifetime and never need to detail strip the frame of a 1911.
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This really depends on how much you shoot - I personally like to detail strip & clean my 1911s completely every 1500-2000 rounds and before major competitions regardless of round count.

JTQ said:
Does anybody detail strip their Ruger P90, S&W 4506, or HK USP on a regular basis?
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I detail strip my HK USP every 3000 rounds or so, although I leave the trigger in place, since putting the trigger return spring back in is a bit tricky.
 
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TheHermit said:
The logic behind detail stripping and cleaning the frame is the same as it is for the slide. For example, trigger bow to frame friction will start to increase when burned powder residue starts to accumulate inside the frame.
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The logic difference would be the volume of powder residue that accumulates in the firing pin and extractor channel is significantly greater than what will accumulate anywhere in the frame.
 
The set of grips can make all the difference between a joy to shoot and a painful experience. I have a Commander size 1911 that looks great with a set of Gen-u-wine Faux ivory grips but the top peak of the grip safety will leave a bruise after just a single magazine. Changing back to a not so purty but fitting my hand better textured stock grips or a set of Magpul grips totally eliminates the problem and I can shoot a whole box of ammo and not leave even a mark on my hand.

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Tanker-Right.jpg
 
The older NRA books have worked fine for me. A proper set of screwdrivers, a good work surface, good lighting, magnets for small parts. And take your time!
The Mexican Obregon pistol had a one piece slide stop and safety.
 
Smaug said:
Well this is going to be tricky for those of us who haven't read all previous posts, but here's something I didn't know, from Bill Wilson and Ken Hackathorn: This goes along with the original post: Don't let the slide slam shut on an empty chamber.

Wilson said there's no stopping people from doing it at gun shows; he just accepts that he has to repair the guns before selling them.
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Yup there's a 6 page thread on this
https://www.thehighroad.org/index.php?threads/dropping-slide-on-empty-chamber-bad-for-gun.911867/
 
If you have a good sized clear heavy duty plastic bag, disassemble the pistol inside so no springs or small parts go into orbit.
 
So I just ordered a better grip safety and now am thinking that only this kind is called a beaver tail:
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Whereas this kind is called a GI style grip safety (or possibly this is also called a rat tail grip safety):
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What other styles of grip safety are there?
 
I'm glad you figured that one out. I'd seen some of your previous posts indicating your confusion and I was planning on pointing out the difference, but didn't get around to it.

Two points I always bring up to folks new to 1911's, ...

1. Decide what kind of sights you want, since not all 1911 sight dovetails are the same, and not all options are available for all sight dovetails.

2. Decide if you need or want a beavertail grip safety, since not all grip safeties are beavertails, and not all grip safeties fit on all frames. Particularly, grip tangs that fit GI grip safeties, don't typically fit beavertail grip safeties.

If you choose wrong on either, you're going to spend some money, time, and effort, either grinding or welding on your gun to fix your error.

Edit to add: your top picture is a beavertail grip safety. Your bottom picture is a GI grip safety and not a rattail.
 
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There are a variety of different styles of beavertail grip safeties, and some minor difference in GI grip safeties. Beavertail difference range from sweep of the beavertail (how long it is) and what frame contour they are designed to fit. Not everybody's GI grip safety will fit other guns since there are so many makers and they all are a little different. As often said - there are no drop in parts on a 1911.

Common ones you may see other than a beavertail or GI, are two from Colt, the "Ducktail" and the "Rattail".

The ducktail is like a beavertail, but sweeps down rather than up. Colt used those for several years on their XSE models. You don't see those very much anymore.

The rattail is really just a modified GI grip safety that allows the use of a "Commander" style rowel hammer. This is also not common anymore.
 
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Oh yeah, since the thread is 1911 tips...
JTQ said:
As often said - there are no drop in parts on a 1911.
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JTQ said:
1. Decide what kind of sights you want, since not all 1911 sight dovetails are the same, and not all options are available for all sight dovetails.

2. Decide if you need or want a beavertail grip safety, since not all grip safeties are beavertails, and not all grip safeties fit on all frames. Particularly, grip tangs that fit GI grip safeties, don't typically fit beavertail grip safeties.

If you choose wrong on either, you're going to spend some money, time, and effort, either grinding or welding on your gun to fix your error.
Click to expand...
 
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