Dropping Slide on Empty Chamber--Bad for Gun

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I was watching a video on the 1911 (since I just got one) and one thing they said was never drop a slide on an empty chamber. I am wondering where the problem is with this and whether this warning applies to all semi-autos or is just specific to the 1911.
 
Specific to semi-auto pistols equipped with a slide-cocked hammer and relatively delicate hammer hook and sear (think: any 1911), dropping the slide over an empty well causes the hammer hooks to impact the sear nose harder than it normally would, twice.

The slide moves forward, un-slowed by loading a round, dropping the hammer hooks onto the sear once. The slide then crashes home, rocking the entire gun forward, lifting the sear out of the hammer hooks (the hammer's standing still due to its own momentum) and then the hammer catches up impacting the hooks into the sear again. While it is possible to setup the sear and hooks such that they are not damaged by thousands of repetitions. . . it's still harder on the sear and hooks than shooting the gun is. I have spoiled a factory-new Kimber sear with less than 100 repetitions of this action; they fixed it, and I don't do that anymore.

For other semi-autos. . . it's still hard on the gun, and bad manners (like licking your knife), but is not really likely to do any damage.
 
There are some semi-autos that do not leave the slide open upon emptying the magazine, so those presumably are built to take an empty chamber slide slam. Thinking the Seacamp is like that.
 
On a 1911 it can damage the sear on tuned guns but it will batter the lower locking lug on the barrel on all guns. Check a used gun at the store by pressing down on the barrel hood. If the barrel has play there, the lower lugs are worn from dropping the slide a million times.

I dropped the slide on my 1911 a dozen times in as many years, and no issues.

I don’t drop the slide on any semi auto generally. But a glock for example will take it much more.
 
Here is Ernest Langdon with a video after running 50,000 rounds through a Beretta PX4. He broke one part during the test, the cam block, somewhere around the 44,000 round point, shown at about the 2:30 mark in the video.



A forum member elsewhere, who's gone over 100,000 rounds with his Beretta PX4 in .45 Auto, who has communicated directly with Ernest Langdon regarding the issue, attributed the cam block breakage to dropping the slide on an empty chamber. So perhaps it isn't just a 1911 issue. The cam block is a $50ish dollar part, so if you don't mind spending an extra $50 every 40,000ish rounds, drop the slide on an empty chamber all you want.
 
Check a used gun at the store by pressing down on the barrel hood. If the barrel has play there, the lower lugs are worn from dropping the slide a million times.
A lot of brand new 1911s and almost all surplus 1911s will have some movement if you press on the barrel hood. On a properly fitted gun, the slide stop pin itself should hold the barrel up into battery. All too often it is the link, not the slide stop , that is holding the barrel in battery. This is not a dangerous condition but is is an inaccurate one.
 
I dont do it on any semi auto. Same for dry fireing. Got yelled at when I was younger and it stuck with me.

Dummy rounds and snap caps for me all day long. Might be overkill for some but I dont break fireing pins either.
 
"Experts" can do whatever they want with their guns. I like to take reasonable steps to insure a long and happy life for mine. But I'm old fashioned. I still slingshot the slide when it's feeding time, because that seems most in keeping with the way the gun normally operates. I may be wrong, but I am happy and my gun just keeps going.
 
The old Bullseye shooters had to, and I mean those were the range rules at the time, hold the hammer back with their thumb. when they dropped the slide. Modern beavertails have made that impossible, but it still can be done with the military grip safety.

This is an old Clark beavertail, expressly made so there is enough clearance under the slide for a thumb to hold back the hammer when the slide is back.

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Not enough room under this slide and beavertail arrangement for a thumb.

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I was told by the Armorer on the All Guard team to hold the trigger back on a 1911 when dropping the slide on a loaded round, so I assume the advise is good with an empty chamber. When the trigger is held back the disconnector is engaged and the sear will not be damaged.

This can be similar to rubbing your belly and patting your head. You can get the sequence confused. If you ever do hold the trigger back, make sure you pull the trigger before releasing the slide, and not after.

Don't ask how I learned this piece of wisdom :oops:
 
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