S&W Model 36 Reload Question.......?

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xXxplosive

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S&W Model 36.......Reload Question.
Have had my Model 36 for over 30 years.....just a classic revolver.
But when I try to reload usuing my HKS Speedloader, it doesn't clear my grips for a fast and smooth reload. I have to jockey the speedloader into the cylinder and practically pry it out.
Over the years I've used the stock S&W Round Butt Grips the gun came with.
S&W Wood Bannana Grips, Pachmyer Rubber grips that I just love but won't let the speedloader work smoothly either....

Sooooo....a little help here please....what grips for a Model 36 can I buy that would allow for smooth, fast reloading with a speedloader ?


Is Anybody Out There...............................?
 
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My 36-1 is tight on this also, I can't get nowhere near to flush. It works ok to get them started and let gravity take over. Mine with the banana grigs won't work either. It will work with any of the combat grips just don't fit flush.
 
I had the same issue with mine with rubber Pachmayr grips. I trimmed the left grip panel with an exacto knife back to the metal plate cast into the rubber and a dremel sanding bit. Then used some oiled fine sandpaper and steel wool to polish the rubber and a blueing pen to darken the steel plate where it got shiny from the trim. No problems any more with HKS loaders.
 
HKS speedloaders used with almost any S&W will require the left grip to be relieved. On some the old style cylinder release may need some relief on the bottom. In 1996 S&W modified the release tab to help clear a speedloader. As was suggested, holding the speedloader slightly angled off the cylinder axis and letting gravity drop the rounds in works if you can master it. This another reason moon clips are so much faster and popular with competition shooters.
 
I'm surprised that no one has addressed this before or at least that I can remember.....The Chief is a classic gun and should be able to reload immediately.

I'm still trying to incorporate some type of idea to make this work correctly....again any ideas and comments, please.......IMO this is an important consideration.
 
RGPM1A:

Used your method and it worked....only thing is it could be a little prettier with the Blueing Pen....but it's functional.
 
HKS/cylinder gap?

My 36-1 is tight on this also, I can't get nowhere near to flush. It works ok to get them started and let gravity take over. Mine with the banana grigs won't work either. It will work with any of the combat grips just don't fit flush.
I am not sure exactly what you mean by "fit flush", but the HKS speedloader design does not allow the body of the speedloader to touch the cylinder. There will be about 1/4" or so gap. If I missed my guess on what you mean, just disregard.
 
As I tried to describe, the speedloader doesn't go into the cylinder straight....it's better now that I've removed some of the grip on the laft panel.
 
Stock magna grips for J frames will not properly clear a loader. Either buy another set of grips like Uncle Mikes boot grips or Hogues, as they are relieved for loaders, or start using loading strips. I use speed strips for convenience and I will be the first to admit is the slower form of reloading but it is still a reload.

In Ed Lovette's book The Snubby Revolverhe addresses problems associated with not being able to clear loaders and his answer is to change grips to something that will. He does not like loading strips so he will not make that compromise. Figure out what you like and go that route. I will sometimes be watching a movie on my couch and I will practice loading and unloading with snap caps and some speed strips. Can also be done with speed loaders.
 
I have 2 S&W 36's with Pachmeyer grips and the old flat latch with the compacs are a little tight when using the HKS speed loader but it works if you push it in place rather than trying to let it drop in place.

The 3" model with the Pach Decelerators takes the HKs speed loaders without any binding or clearance issues. The grips are a bit longer but they fit my hand well.

2S%26W36s.jpg
 
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