The RUGER OLD ARMY Club

Hey! I'm thrilled that anyone's interested in this stuff!
Y'all may yet get sick o' me 'n' my constant prattling, if ya aren't already!

I'll keep posting pics & pdf's as I go thru the process of making these capsules...so don't be bashful when it comes time to tell me to shut up already!

All that's left is the long gas-bag topic of doing an action job on the ROA, or any single action revolver for that matter. It's an over hammered subject...& I must be arrogant to think that I can add something meaningful to the overcooked pot, right?

I don't know if the action job adnauseam should go in a new thread, or keep it here in the Club. Any advice?
 
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I for one Doak am glued to,( and printin'), all that yer postin'.
Please don't stop and please do do the action job post.
I am currently tryin to learn all i can on the subject and so far am VERY impressed with you concisiveness and attention to detail.
 
Doak,

I know you said previously that you only shoot black powder (not Pyrodex type substitutes) but do you think that the small pistol/rifle primers would be powerful enough to ignite Blackhorn 209 without duds (failures)?

I put a Mag-Spark on my Hawken replica in order to be able to shoot Blackhorn powder with it and have not looked back. The same maker (Mr. Hubbard?) used to make it to shoot small pistol/rifle primers and it was called the "Flam-N-Go". However it was not small enough in diameter to be used on revolver cylinders. That is why I like your project so much.
 
Patocazador,
I don't know anything about blackhorn powder...so I just did a quick search on it. Sounds like it's intended for inlines w/high velocity copper jacketed bullets. They were talking about speeds over 2,000 fps. At those speeds, pure lead becomes like mercury.

You'd have to slow it down w/pure lead, or ram fmj ball ammo in the ROA. :-D
Sounds like interesting stuff. I would think the only way to find out if it'll work would be to try some.

Don't know if 12 - 28 threads will take blackhorn pressure. Those inliners have robust breech plugs in 'em made for that stuff. I'd start w/a very lite load, a card wad, & oat bran compressed on top under the bullet. Hold yer ears 'n' have someone else shoot it! :-D

Also, as you prolly know, small pistol primers & small rifle primers do not have the same physical dimensions. Small rifle primers are ~ .004'' taller. Same O.D.
 
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robhof

I used large pistol primers in 38 Speer plastic bullets and no powder and they can kill a squirrel at 20' from a 6" barrel. The sm primers should ignite 209 power with no problem, but as stated; start light and work up carefully. :confused::confused:
 
Prattle on, Doak. I won't get bored of it. And if you want to tell me how to do an action job on a single action revolver, I'd be interested in reading that, too.
 
This IS a thread dedicated to Ruger Old Armies, folks. Perhaps it would be better if we handled those other topics in their own threads? I'm sure there are more than a few folks who'd like to read about them that don't read this thread, and would miss out.
 
Re: A new thread for ROA action job.

OK. What I'll do then is begin composing an introductory pdf text and start shooting pics. Then, when I'm ready to go, I'll post in the ROAClub, and those interested can follow me to the new thread. I will, however, keep the Primer Capsule stuff on the ROAClubsite, since it is dedicated to the ROA, and I can't imagine why anyone else would wanna bother w/it.

That OK w/everybody?
 
Just got offered a nice Stainless SN starts with 145- with some pyro, balls, nipple wrench and such and Kirst single firing pin conversion in .45LC (stanless non fluted) for $540 out the door.....was I wrong to walk?

-kBob
 
Just got offered a nice Stainless SN starts with 145- with some pyro, balls, nipple wrench and such and Kirst single firing pin conversion in .45LC (stanless non fluted) for $540 out the door.....was I wrong to walk?

-kBob
Some would pay $540 for the gun alone and consider the rest gravy. The Kirst conversion cylinder is gonna be worth $300 alone.

I guess it depends on how bad you want the gun...obviously not very bad!!
 
Just got offered a nice Stainless SN starts with 145- with some pyro, balls, nipple wrench and such and Kirst single firing pin conversion in .45LC (stanless non fluted) for $540 out the door.....was I wrong to walk?

-kBob

From your description, if it included the original percussion cylinder, I'd probably have grabbed it. I'd consider a Stainless ROA in real good shape for under $400 a good deal. I'd put a value of $150-$200 on a used conversion cylinder if it looked good. With the other nickle and dime items I'd have thought twice and ended up buying it I'm sure.

Can you turn around and get it now? If you ever regret the purchase I doubt you'd have much trouble getting your money back from someone on here.
 
I'd have taken that ROA off his hand so fast, his palms would be burned.
I bought my ROA, and unused '76 liberty edition, for $450-with the help of our very own Phil Piburn.
Was it more than I wanted to pay? A little.
Was if less than they sell for locally? A lot.
Am I disappointed with my purchase? HELL no! Especially after spending 90-something bucks on a pair of pink myrtlewood (not really pink) grips from CLC grips.
They really look and feel great.
pinkmyrtlegrips.jpg
[/IMG]
 
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Just got offered a nice Stainless SN starts with 145- with some pyro, balls, nipple wrench and such and Kirst single firing pin conversion in .45LC (stanless non fluted) for $540 out the door.....was I wrong to walk?

-kBob

I hope that instead of sittin there readin this yer either off buyin that sweet deal or in the process of sendin me the info so's i can buy it :D

Sounds like a 5 Benjamin deal to me ;)
 
Hey Jaymo.
I recently rescued this 'Liberty' fer 3 Bennies :neener:
8eac94ca.jpg

I did hafta replace the pawl spring and plunger tho.

Oh yeah, real sweet stocks ya got there. !!!!
 
News on the Primer Capsules

Today, while cleaning my stainless ROA, took all the primer capsules out to do routine maintenance on 'em and found that 2 of them are cracked. They're cracked on the tip area deepest in the cylinder.

I'm gonna change the steel they're made of and will try several different materials. It'll be harder on the cutting tools, and prolly won't come out quite so purty. New material will be hardenable so won't have to mess around w/case hardening.

Will keep y'all posted as I go along.
 
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