Metal Conditioning Lubricants?

Well, 'conditioning' to me implies that you provide a full coat, let sit for a while and soak in, then wipe off. You still have a layer of corrosion protection, even if it doesn't 'look' wet.

This is especially true on non-smooth surfaces, such as bead blasted bare metal, or other coatings.

If you use a cleaner which will completely strip all oil, then you are back to the bare surface. So you have to reapply that base layer.


It's essentially the same thing of when you 'season' a cast iron skillet.

I just use transmission fluid. Same rust preventative properties as motor oil but thinner and creeps better. So far so good for me. A quart of the stuff lasts a long time and does not cost much. For lube I use Lubriplate.

Bovice said:

But rub it on like Clairol if you think it helps!

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I laughed at that a little louder than I should've, but dang that was hilarious.

I find that Marvel mystery oil works quite well. Doesn't smell too bad either.

Mobil 1 here. An ounce lasts a long time.

I like Froglube on my AR.

With my Glocks, 870, SKS, etc, I never put any thought into the lube I used and I don't think the guns did either. Still, I think I took a step 'up' when I replaced RemOil with Slip2000 EWL

Boattale said:

Mobil 1 here. An ounce lasts a long time.

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This (above).
Actually, I used Slip 2000 and their other product quite successfully, but at some point I realized that the Mobil1 I use in my sports cars is likely good enough. Except when I need something thicker. In those cases, I use Mobil1 grease.
A quart of 0w-30 and a tub of grease should last a lifetime.
V

Breakfree?

I'm surprised no one mentioned BreakFree. It has served me well for many years.

I used breakfree for a few years. When i ran out it wasn't available locally. Thats when i found Mobil 1 oil and grease served all my needs. I'll never give up Hoppes #9 unless they go the way of Hostess.

Friction generated from rotating, e.g. rc's tests, is no different from linear friction. In an engine, there are lots of different friction factors. I use Mobil 1, exclusively, for lubing my firearms. It doesn't cook off of my ARs' bolt carriers when they get heated up.

There are no lubricity requirements for any firearm that we, the unwashed masses, are likely to own that would exceed the lubricity requirements of a $250,000 racing engine spinning @ 10,000+ r.p.m.s.

hentown said:

Friction generated from rotating, e.g. rc's tests, is no different from linear friction. In an engine, there are lots of different friction factors. I use Mobil 1, exclusively, for lubing my firearms. It doesn't cook off of my ARs' bolt carriers when they get heated up.

There are no lubricity requirements for any firearm that we, the unwashed masses, are likely to own that would exceed the lubricity requirements of a $250,000 racing engine spinning @ 10,000+ r.p.m.s.

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Which $250,000 racing engine spinning 10,000+ RPMs uses the same Mobil 1 you buy off the shelf at Walmart?

The only "conditioning" product I use, if you could call it that, is Hoppe's Elite Bore Cleaner.

I only use it because it performs as advertised.

About the only "conditioning" I believe in for metal products, in the form of perpetual lubrication- is the seasoning of my cast-iron pans.

YMMV.

Which $250,000 racing engine spinning 10,000+ RPMs uses the same Mobil 1 you buy off the shelf at Walmart?

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Here may be the answer.

http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/MotorOil/Car_Care/AskMobil/Racing_Collection.aspx

jcwit said:

Here may be the answer.

http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/MotorOil/Car_Care/AskMobil/Racing_Collection.aspx

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I am not looking to do the leg work to support your claim. I was just wondering if you were making it up as you went along. I guess I have my answer.

Buddy of mine gave me this recipe years ago and so far only had to make one batch and have never had a problem. more than happy to share 1qt transmission fluid, 1 qt 30 weight motor oil, and about 6 table spoons of synthetic caliper grease )

hentown said:

Friction generated from rotating, e.g. rc's tests, is no different from linear friction. In an engine, there are lots of different friction factors. I use Mobil 1, exclusively, for lubing my firearms. It doesn't cook off of my ARs' bolt carriers when they get heated up.

There are no lubricity requirements for any firearm that we, the unwashed masses, are likely to own that would exceed the lubricity requirements of a $250,000 racing engine spinning @ 10,000+ r.p.m.s.

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If you think the lubrication requirements for linear sliding and rotation is the same, well, there is no capability of us having a meaningful discussion.

btw: The Mobile One that works in my car is not the Mobile One that I put in my motorcycle.

In fact, the car oil would fubar my motorcycle's clutch.

So much for the theory that one oil can do everything right.

Being a mechanic people always ask me what oil is best for there cars. I say oil is oil. They all have minimum standards. As for gun oils I have frog lube. I am also a novice in the firearm hobby but I think most will work equally well.

msrfrog said:

Being a mechanic people always ask me what oil is best for there cars. I say oil is oil. They all have minimum standards. As for gun oils I have frog lube. I am also a novice in the firearm hobby but I think most will work equally well.

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http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/

k_dawg said:

If you think the lubrication requirements for linear sliding and rotation is the same, well, there is no capability of us having a meaningful discussion..

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It is my understanding that the pistons in an internal combustion engine reciprocate/slide.. not spin.

k_dawg said:

.In fact, the car oil would fubar my motorcycle's clutch..

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Just make sure the oil you put in your bike, if it's a wet clutch, does not contain the "EC" (Energy Conserving) denotation.. the clutch would slip. Most all engine oils don't have the "EC" "rating"/marking.

Certaindeaf said:

It is my understanding that the pistons in an internal combustion engine reciprocate/slide.. not spin.

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There are all kinds of things happening in an internal combustion engine.

Look at the crankshaft, the journal bearings, the camshaft, etc.

Much more to it than simply pistons in the cylinder bore

Warp said:

There are all kinds of things happening in an internal combustion engine.

Look at the crankshaft, the journal bearings, the camshaft, etc.

Much more to it than simply pistons in the cylinder bore

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I understand this. It was my understanding that the person I responded to was stating that there was no sliding going on inside an engine.

Certaindeaf said:

I understand this. It was my understanding that the person I responded to was stating that there was no sliding going on inside an engine.

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Gotcha

I did not read though the bobistheoilguy forum .
But I can tell you engine failure is always due to lack of maintenance not oil brand.
I have seen many cooked engines all due to customers buying a car and never changing the oil till it seizes. My own brother did it to a 7 series BMW.
I would think the same applies to gun maintenance, use a gun specific oil and use it when you should .

msrfrog said:

I did not read though the bobistheoilguy forum .
But I can tell you engine failure is always due to lack of maintenance not oil brand.
I have seen many cooked engines all due to customers buying a car and never changing the oil till it seizes. My own brother did it to a 7 series BMW.
I would think the same applies to gun maintenance, use a gun specific oil and use it when you should .

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When I put oil in my vehicle...or on most of my firearms...I want to do more than prevent premature catastrophic destruction. I want to minimize wear (under all conditions), maximize performance, and maximize longevity of the machine.

I'm sure plenty of people will think I'm wasting money, but my car has Amsoil and my AR has Froglube.

Although I don't think there's anything bad about going with a jug of mobil 1 synthetic from Walmart for both. That's what I put in my wife's car, and always have...it's still going strong at about 115k miles so far