HoosierQ
Member
50/50 mix of 5w30 Mobil one and Marvel's Mystery Oil. Very slippery. CLP as well.
Ar-15 lubricant grease
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Caliper_Mi
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I've always been curious where the idea of using ATF came from?
Working in the automotive business, actually with automatic transmissions, the primary purpose of ATF is a hydraulic fluid. Lubrication is second. ATF is also very hard on many plastics and rubbers. Plenty of seal materials will dissolve in ATF. It will soften and warp plastic bags over time as well. Yes, ATF has a good deal of dispersants to keep things like clutch dust in suspension (or soot in an AR), but many motor oils will do the same. I just can't see ATF being a top choice where lubrication is desired.
Thinking about it, if the color of the oil on my AR after shooting is any indication, diesel engine oil may be something to try when my current bottle of gun oil runs out.
Working in the automotive business, actually with automatic transmissions, the primary purpose of ATF is a hydraulic fluid. Lubrication is second. ATF is also very hard on many plastics and rubbers. Plenty of seal materials will dissolve in ATF. It will soften and warp plastic bags over time as well. Yes, ATF has a good deal of dispersants to keep things like clutch dust in suspension (or soot in an AR), but many motor oils will do the same. I just can't see ATF being a top choice where lubrication is desired.
Thinking about it, if the color of the oil on my AR after shooting is any indication, diesel engine oil may be something to try when my current bottle of gun oil runs out.
My experience with tw25b is that it actually dosent attract dirt any more so then rem oil. I havent tried heating the bcg up and placing it in the oil tho. (dont intend to until I do some searching)
Its interesting that most of you use oil over grease, I will continue using grease atleast on the bcg rails, upper, and gas rings.
Its interesting that most of you use oil over grease, I will continue using grease atleast on the bcg rails, upper, and gas rings.
Saleen322
Member
The oil one uses is your choice. I too have some automotive/truck mechanical experience being a PA State Certified Inspection mechanic since 1978. Inside automatic transmissions are plastic parts and rubber seals and there are vehicles on the road longer than I have been working on them with original automatic transmissions. If ATF attacks the seals, it must be a slow siege. I will go out on a limb and say the preservation of the plastic and rubber parts over long periods inside a transmission would be a design concern when chemists blend ATF. In fact, we used ATF very effectively in motorcycle front forks as they preserved the rubber seals. Some motorcycle manuals recommend ATF as the fork oil of choice knowing all the seals are rubber.
As a long time mechanic and longer time competitive shooter, ATF works great but what you use is up to you. YMMV literally
1911austin
Member
I’ve tried about everything but have settled on Slip 200 EWL. Non-toxic, easy to use, almost no odor and works quite well. If I’m going to run the AR hard between cleanings, I may use a little Slip 2000 EWG grease.
Honestly, I have found most gun specific oils and things like motor oil work too.
Honestly, I have found most gun specific oils and things like motor oil work too.
Rushthezeppelin
Member
You'd be surprised the difference heating it makes. Granted this will happen regardless with internal parts working and you can patch a hot bore for the bore treatment. For external parts that dont get that hot but could rust the heat is a good idea. Unfortunately youtube is down right now but theres a guy who tests all sorts of lubes for rust prevention with brake rotors left in the elements and heat treated frog lube wins hands down, even over non heated (even the guy doing the vid was surprised).
Welding Rod
Member
Hmmm, Slip 2000 EWL is the only lube I have ever used that I DIDN'T like. Felt like there was no film strength, like the gun had water in it rather than oil.
Dr.Zubrato
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Rushthezeppelin: I'll check that video out! I guess you're right for the barrel, but i figure if you take it to the range, it will get hot enough to 'heat treat'
I will try mobil 1 once I run out of frog lube, but you use so little it will last me another 2-3 yrs to use it up.
I use it mainly because it's so dang easy to clean my rifle, cuts lot of time away when all you have to do is wipe down your BCG, upper, and bore snake.
I will try mobil 1 once I run out of frog lube, but you use so little it will last me another 2-3 yrs to use it up.
I use it mainly because it's so dang easy to clean my rifle, cuts lot of time away when all you have to do is wipe down your BCG, upper, and bore snake.
Gordon
Member
I lube with grease when stripped - XF-7 is my favorite, and a light wipe of Mobil 1 ATF. In my range bag a carry a small lab squeeze bottle of Marvel Mystery oil and shoot on the open ejection port and hand cycle the action every couple hundred rounds. This seems to flush out the loose stuff. I clean after the end of session.
FWIW when I was introduced to the m-16 in 1968 in RVN I was taught to strip, dust out with a soft shaving brush ,apply M-14 Bolt roller grease sparingly to the areas noted by Ferriswheel above and drool over the bolt group and sear some WELL SHAKEN Dri Slide which was just coming into vouge.My LRRP unit carried only the Dri Slide with us and squirted it into bolt group and sear area as we did not completely field strip on LRRPs. Dri Slide has a thin carrier that flushes pretty good and evaporates leaving a moly coat behind. Alittle went along way and we did not have malfs to speak of from those 20 round Colt mags! I continued this proceedure until CLP came along in the 70s and ******d with that until the 2000s. The old CLP would congeal after a month or two; not good.
FWIW when I was introduced to the m-16 in 1968 in RVN I was taught to strip, dust out with a soft shaving brush ,apply M-14 Bolt roller grease sparingly to the areas noted by Ferriswheel above and drool over the bolt group and sear some WELL SHAKEN Dri Slide which was just coming into vouge.My LRRP unit carried only the Dri Slide with us and squirted it into bolt group and sear area as we did not completely field strip on LRRPs. Dri Slide has a thin carrier that flushes pretty good and evaporates leaving a moly coat behind. Alittle went along way and we did not have malfs to speak of from those 20 round Colt mags! I continued this proceedure until CLP came along in the 70s and ******d with that until the 2000s. The old CLP would congeal after a month or two; not good.
Caliper_Mi
Member
The oil one uses is your choice. I too have some automotive/truck mechanical experience being a PA State Certified Inspection mechanic since 1978. Inside automatic transmissions are plastic parts and rubber seals and there are vehicles on the road longer than I have been working on them with original automatic transmissions. If ATF attacks the seals, it must be a slow siege. I will go out on a limb and say the preservation of the plastic and rubber parts over long periods inside a transmission would be a design concern when chemists blend ATF. In fact, we used ATF very effectively in motorcycle front forks as they preserved the rubber seals. Some motorcycle manuals recommend ATF as the fork oil of choice knowing all the seals are rubber.
As a long time mechanic and longer time competitive shooter, ATF works great but what you use is up to you. YMMV literally
Yup, all too familiar with the plastic and seals inside an automatic. I'm a trans validation engineer for GM so I've seen my share of the inside of transmissions as well. The plastics and seal materials used inside an AT are very carefully selected and extensively tested to ensure they do hold up. Do a web search for "o ring compatibility with ATF". You'll see that plenty of common materials are not compatible.
Anyways, my main point is that ATF is not really the greatest lubricant. It was designed with many other jobs in addition to lubrication in mind. Sure, guns do not have very demanding lubrication needs compared to a car and I know ATF works fine for many, many shooters. Many of us have also read about that tactical course where they demonstrated how a feminine care produce will also keep an AR running in a pinch
But with all the other lubricants there are to pick from out there, why ATF?Rushthezeppelin
Member
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rNUlpnJSKEI
Theres the video. Keep in mind these tests relate only to its rust prevention properties and not necessarily the lubricating properties. I think where frog lube edges out in lubrication is still being able to become VERY slick even after long term storage. It looks congealed like other lubes will do but as soon as you cycle a few rounds its slick as the day it came out the bottle, at least IME. YMMV.
I use FrogLube paste on my AR's.
It stays where I put it, even when I use a lot (better more than less when lubing an AR), it works great as a lube, it smells great, and it works great as a lube.
It's all I use on my AR's, and I don't yet use it on anything else.
If I was to use something else it would be Slip 2000 EWL, which is what I use on my handguns.
It stays where I put it, even when I use a lot (better more than less when lubing an AR), it works great as a lube, it smells great, and it works great as a lube.
It's all I use on my AR's, and I don't yet use it on anything else.
If I was to use something else it would be Slip 2000 EWL, which is what I use on my handguns.
Never used grease on an AR. Breakfree or Dri Slide always worked and never saw any need to try anything else. Been using ARs/M16s for about 45 years.
The only rifle I've use grease on is a Garand. For the past few years I've used Mobil 1 grease. Doesn't thicken up in the cold.
The only rifle I've use grease on is a Garand. For the past few years I've used Mobil 1 grease. Doesn't thicken up in the cold.
Rushthezeppelin
Member
Should try it on your handguns. Works just as well, just be more sparing instead of slathering the bolt with the stuff (I do that too on my AR
). The rust prevention properties alone should be enough to get you to use it on your EDC at least on the slide/other exposed metal parts. I just use 2 drops on a patch to lube the guide rails, bottom of the slide and top of the barrel. Clean up the sear assembly every once in a while and put some in there too. I've gone 300 rounds between quick cleanings with no malfunctions (I have a Sarsilmaz Turkish CZ clone, poly framed) and it barely shows any carbon buildup, most of it is the cutout in the slide where my ejector rides into. I would not be the least bit surprised if she could do 500-800 or more between cleanings with no noticeably ill effects but I clean too much when testing loads to see how little whole gun fouling I get from a load, plus I doubt I could go that far without feeling guilty.
Thats because we're the majority.
Majorities aren't known for making wise decisions. <Removed by mod>
Guys, whatever works right? Far be it from me to suggest a lube that was actually designed for firearm lubrication verses automotive lubrication, but I would recommend Frog Lube(paste or oil). It's just good stuff and it works. Put it on any way you want. When you shoot it, it'll heat up enough to "treat" the metal. Militech(grease or oil) works well too. As does EWL, and numerous other lubricants.
I'd like to point out that motor oil and transmission fluid are both carcinogens. Just saying..... Do what you will, but if your AR needs a half quart of Mobil 1 to run, you should think about getting a better rifle.
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I'm in the camp "if it slides, grease it, if it rotates, oil it."
Until recently, I greased the sliding contacts of the bolt carrier group on my ARs with good success.
I recently assembled an AR where the grease retarded the movement of the bolt carrier bolt under recoil causing short stroking. A squirt of Break Free fixed it.
So, with ARs, i guess I am moving into the oil camp.
Until recently, I greased the sliding contacts of the bolt carrier group on my ARs with good success.
I recently assembled an AR where the grease retarded the movement of the bolt carrier bolt under recoil causing short stroking. A squirt of Break Free fixed it.
So, with ARs, i guess I am moving into the oil camp.
Guntoter
Member
Tetra oil & grease on loadbearing parts and GI jiz for a quick external rubdown to fend off rust.
So what happens when you start to fire(use) the firearm? How about calling the manufacturer of the firearm in question and asking if automotive motor oil is recommended on their product.
I get it though. Motor oil does lubricate moving parts as that's what it was designed for... In automotive engines, but regardless it lubricates right? Just keep in mind that it is not optimal and was not designed as such. Lots of things will work in life, even if they aren't the best for the situation... Unless it means it's cheap and plentiful, but I've heard that story before. Regardless, I cleaned a used g26 a few weeks ago that had motor oil used on it. It took me disassembling the entire pistol to get that crap out of it. It was everywhere. Just a magnet for dirt and carbon.
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