Lee vs. Lyman round ball molds

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BSA1

BSA1

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I am not sure if this question is better answered on the Blackpowder forum or the Reloading forum but I will try here first.

I have everything I need to start casting my own lead ball for my Remmie except the mold. Lyman two cavity mold runs $85.00 plus wooden handles vs. $20.00 for the Lee two cavity mold which includes the handles.

Taking into consideration the material they are constructed of (Lyman is steel) and the hugh price difference how does the Lee compare to the Lyman
with consistency and durability?

As long as the bullet does not have voids in it and will shave lead when loaded I would doubt if it makes a difference in a revolver.

Durability might be more of issue but since I can buy 5 Lee molds for the price of one Lyman even a shorter lifespan of the Lee may still be more cost effective. On the other hand Lyman will probably last a lifetime.

I would guess I am going to cast around 60 balls a month.
 
I've asked myself, and though many feel the durability is much better with the Lyman molds, I've not actually read of anyone having a problem with their Lee. They get praised often.

The way I see it is being made of aluminum they heat up faster, but cool faster. Give and take...

For the cost I'd opt for the Lee if/when I get involved. Mostly for the cost as I'd be buying all of the other equipment as well.
 
Lee molds are good. They are aluminum so you cant heat them as much, but they do cast a better ball IMO than lyman. The spure on the lee is nice and flat with the ball, the lyman sticks out a great deal.

The lee molds when lubed and taken care of will last a life time.
 
I've got no complaints at all with my Lee RB molds, good value and they do leave a nice flat sprue rather than a tit. Mine cast true-to-size (using pure lead of course, not WW) and shave the same ring as Hornady .454s
 
Go with the Lee. I have both brands and really for the price diff not worth it .
The Lymans that I have in 45 /50 cuts the sprue a little more proud.
 
I've still using the first Lee mold I ever bought, a .454" 220 conical I bought around 1976. Coming up on 40 years, is that durable enough for ya? All my molds, or most of 'em, are Lee. I don't care for cast iron. You can cool off an over-hot aluminum mold by splashing a bit of water on it or dipping a corner. DON'T try that with iron.

My reproduction .31 mold is brass. I'd guess that Aluminum is as durable as brass which was used a LOT for molds back in the day.

I'll take the Lee and save some money, thanks. If it only lasts me 40 years, I'll be dead by then. :D

The ONE mold I've had to repair was a .358" 158SWCGC Lee mold on which the sprue cutter mount bolt stripped out. I just drilled out the hole and used a small machine screw. Still working and that mold is over 30 years old.
 
I am pleased with my Lee molds. Aluminum is obviously less durable than steel, but if you take resonable care...

I run my molds hot enough to cut the sprue with thumb pressure only on the sprue cutter. I wear gloves of course (cheap welder's gloves from Harbor Freight) I hate to see anyone pound on a sprue cutter with a mallet. Not necessary. Run the mold and lead hot, cut the sprue as soon as it solidifies (you can tell when it turns a bit dull), and thumb pressure is all will you need. I can run 3 casts per minute with a 6 cavity mold and a bottom pour furnace when I'm cookin'!

If I were pounding the mold with something, I would opt for steel.

But I'm not.
 
I haven't cast any RB's with either Lee or Lyman but I do like the Lyman molds much better then the Lee.
I had several Lee molds at one time but I've since sold or given them away.
 
This thread got me off my duff and I ordered a box of .454 RB and a Lee mold. The .454 RB is backordered, of course. :rolleyes: I can get .457, but apparently .454 stock is low. I'm GUESSING the bullet companies are concentrating on the stock that's short, like .22LR and 9mm, with their production. Bummer when RB is short. Now, I've got the conical mold I've had for 40 years, but my new '58 5.5" really prefers RB.

I can't buy .22LR at the moment, but by GAWD I can cast RB! :D
 
BSA1 said:
I am not sure if this question is better answered on the Blackpowder forum or the Reloading forum but I will try here first.

I have everything I need to start casting my own lead ball for my Remmie except the mold. Lyman two cavity mold runs $85.00 plus wooden handles vs. $20.00 for the Lee two cavity mold which includes the handles.

Taking into consideration the material they are constructed of (Lyman is steel) and the hugh price difference how does the Lee compare to the Lyman
with consistency and durability?

As long as the bullet does not have voids in it and will shave lead when loaded I would doubt if it makes a difference in a revolver.

Durability might be more of issue but since I can buy 5 Lee molds for the price of one Lyman even a shorter lifespan of the Lee may still be more cost effective. On the other hand Lyman will probably last a lifetime.

I would guess I am going to cast around 60 balls a month.
Click to expand...
I've a bunch of Lee molds, several Lyman molds, some Rapine and a couple of custom molds and a smoked lee is as good as any but they score easily and don't last as long as brass or steel.

On the other hand, they are cheap easy to heat.

As a bargain mold I can think of no other that will give you overall service as a lee if it casts a good bullet to start with.


Aloha... :cool:
 
My best mold is a MOUNTAIN MOLDS BRASS ONE. All else are Lee's.
I really like the 454 round ball six holer. I set in a month or so ago and made up 43 pounds of 454s. Six at a time and they pile up fast.
 
All my molds are Lee Aluminum Molds & I have never had a problem with them. The only thing you have with the Lyman Steel Molds is less money & a heavy azz steel mold..........
 
Treated prorperly, either mold will last for several lifetimes. I have Lee, Lyman and a few other molds. Some custom, many stock factory molds, as was stated by J-Bar, cut the sprue while the lead is hot, and you won't need to whack at the sprue plate with a hammer. Most of the damage caused to molds is operator induced. I have a lot of Lee 2 cavity molds I got in the 70s or 80s and they are still pouring good bullets. If you get a problem mold, there are cures but cross that bridge later on, if you have to.

The only thing I do to all my Lee molds is once I get them, I cast some bullets to use as a lap and polish the cavities. This gets any oil out of the cavities and removes any burrs.
 
Rapine.... Excellent molds.

Last address I had for them

Rapine Bullet Moulds
9503 Landis Lane
East Greenville, PA 18041
(215) 679-5413

David Duarte
Shane Duarte
 
You can damage an aluminum round ball mold by casting dirty lead.

I convinced myself that all of the fluxing was a bunch of crap and totally un-needed. I cast several hundred round balls and when they started looking strange, I looked at my mold. The sprue hole in the aluminum mold had been widened by the abrasiveness of the grit in the lead.
I threw the mold in the junk, ordered a new one and a jar of commercial flux. I now flux as I process the lead to ingots, as I melt the lead into my production pot and before I begin to pour. The final fluxing may take 2 or 3 applications until I am sure all the gunk is out.
 
I estimate that I have shot about 20,000 .454 RB through my 44 C&Bs. All but a few were cast with a double cavity LEE mold. It is still servicable. I recently bought a 4 cav Lyman .454. I like the LEE balls better but the Lyman is twice as fast so I put up with the big sprue. Get the LEE mold. If it is too slow, go to biglube.com and get a 6 cav gang mold and go nuts with it.
 
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