Brake Cleaner?

Yes.
Brake cleaner is a degreasing spray solvent that is cheaper than Gun Scrubber.
Useful on guns and equipment both.
Be careful, it is flammable.
I use electric motor cleaner which is not.

I use acetone...and its main use, at least for me, is removing case lube from prepped brass.

Also flammable...use it only with good ventilation...the fumes ain't good for you.

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i use brake cleaner to clean loading dies and my bullet molds

In the past I found that carb and brake cleaner would dull the finish on firearms. As I remember, parkerized finishes. So I have been careful on what I use. I do believe the modern finishes do hold up better.

If I use brake cleaner, I make sure to keep it off of any paint, finish, rubber or plastic. The rubber ring on Lee dies comes to mind. I have replaced the rings on my Lee dies with the Hornady rings now anyway. All lube or rust preventative measures you have used will be gone after the brake cleaner, so keep that in mind.

There is two kinds of Brake Cleaner now. Chlorinated and Non Chlorinated. I prefer the good old fashion Chlorinated which is the same as electronic cleaner straight TCE (trichloroethylene ) Brownells sells it by the gallon, used for degreasing, The new kind or non chlorinated has acetone and other chemicals.It is supposed to be less toxic.

since it is used on brake parts, brake cleaner is required to leave no residue or oils behind at all. it is an excellent solvent and the aerosol can makes it good for spraying out trigger groups and such. you just have to lube after cleaning because it doesn't leave any oil for rust prevention.

I use it as a preliminary cleaner in my gun barrels before running anything down the barrel, point the barrel down and spray it in the chamber until it runs clean from the muzzle. It also works great in between major cleanings in guns like the 10/22. I use it to spray down the trigger group, then dry with compressed air. Not all brake cleaners are alike, check the warning label for clues about the contents. Cleaners with acetone can ruin the finish on a wood stock or dull plastic parts. I use BRAKLEEN in the red can, does a great job without acetone or toluene. http://crcindustries.com/auto/?s=05089

Green can of CRC brake cleaner from wally world is $3, cleans my choke tubes and barrels right then right now; bit keep it away from plastics and then relube/oil as directed. Works real well on triggers groups (relube after) as well

Gumout carb cleaner on the action assembly of my Marlin 60's. Few hunderd rounds of dirty .22lr cakes it up pretty good.

Brake cleaner leaves ZERO residue, which is why it is imperative to relube afterwards

would dull the finish on firearms. As I remember, parkerized finishes.

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Of course it does.

It removes all traces of oil or grease, including that trapped in the Parkerizing that gives it it's color.
That's what it is supposed to do.

Oil it again and it will look like new again.

rc

I use Non Chlorinated Brake Cleaner for my Glocks. I spray out the frames, and blow them out with air. I also use it to make sure I have the oils out of my striker channels. I use denatured alcohol for dies, and press.

I use Non Chlorinated Brake Cleaner for my Glocks. I spray out the frames, and blow them out with air. I also use it to make sure I have the oils out of my striker channels. I use denatured alcohol for dies, and press.

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I have never tried this before. So it won't hurt the plastic frame?
I was afraid of damaging it so I simply used paint thinner and blew it out with air. Works but PITA.
I know others use brake cleaner with their steel guns.

Walkalong said:

I prefer B-12 Chemtool, but brake cleaner is very popular. B-12 dries with virtually no residue, unlike many brake cleaners.

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Pretty "nasty" stuff.

Brake cleaner is supposed to be the best way to remove the coatings that some types of cartridge casings leave behind in a chamber when fired. Namely the lacquer coating that much of the old steel cased ammo had. And the polymer type coatings that some newer style steel cased ammo has, along with the polymer(?) coating that 5.7x28 brass has. I did some reloading for a 5.7 pistol. Scrubbed the chamber until it looked as clean as it was going to get. Then put some brake cleaner through the chamber and barrel. I was amazed at how much crud it removed.

Just make sure to remove ALL traces of it from the barrel and chamber before putting any other chemicals/oils through it.

I have never tried this before. So it won't hurt the plastic frame?
I was afraid of damaging it so I simply used paint thinner and blew it out with air. Works but PITA.
I know others use brake cleaner with their steel guns.

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Works great! Just make sure its NON Chlorinated. I use it on my entire gun after cleaning it with Hopes #9. It will remove ALL oil, and residue. It will slightly discolor the slide, but a wipe cloth with a little oil will fix you right up!

We use it for degreasing gun parts before they go into the parkerizing tank.

I tend to use this stuff out in the yard on a big piece of cardboard. I check the wind and use it to my advantage. And, I wear gardening gloves while spraying and moving parts around. I don't use it for routine cleaning of guns.

One whiff of brake cleaner gives me a headache so obviously I avoid it.
Since all chemicals are absorbed through the skin, I religiously wear Nitrile gloves. I won't clean a gun without wearing gloves.