Reloading dies cleaning tips

[.38 Special]

I generally don't clean or lube dies. I just haven't seen much need to. Every once in a while a die heavily used with cast bullets will need excess bullet lube wiped out of it, which I just do with a paper towel. And I have a few dies which never get used any more, and they are coated in RIG grease and left in their boxes. Otherwise, they all just keep doing what they are supposed to, and I don't see any need to interfere.

 

[nettlle]

When reloading cast bullets lubed with wax they get pretty gnarly looking on the inside after a period of time.

 

[PWC]

I haven't tread ALL the posts, but from those I did read, no one has yet mentioned cleaning out the little hole in the sizing die (RCBS anyway) that bleeds off air and excess lube, to prevent hydraulic dents in the shoulder.

 

[CQB45ACP]

I haven't tread ALL the posts, but from those I did read, no one has yet mentioned cleaning out the little hole in the sizing die (RCBS anyway) that bleeds off air and excess lube, to prevent hydraulic dents in the shoulder.

You take the prize! I’m going to look at mine right now.

 

[ballman6711]

A quick wipe with a Q-tip or pipe cleaner on occasion is what I do. Once in a while I'll spray them with Hornady One-shot before putting them up.

chris

 

[thump_rrr]

Sorry to disappoint everyone, but I definitely do not have any cleaning tips. This thread is basically to ask for some advice regarding best practices or tips for cleaning reloading dies.

There are YouTube videos out there showing basically:

• Cleaning with Hornady OneShot
• Cleaning with brake cleaner
• Cleaning with carb cleaner
• Cleaning with an utrasonic cleaner
• Then after the cleaning protecting it with something

I assume there will be a difference between protecting it for long term storage vs regular usage. What I am interested in is, what protection if any is needed if dies are used once or a few times per month.

My apologies for not sharing my own tips for cleaning dies, but to be honest, I have not been cleaning my dies except for wiping them down with some gun oil on the outside since I have moved to a bit more humid environment.

It’s hot and humid here in the summer.
Hornady One Shot cleaner and lube works great without much effort.
Don’t get it confused with Hornady One Shot case Lube which in my opinion is garbage.

For long term storage I use Boeshield T-9 or Fluid Film.

 

[vaalpens]

It’s hot and humid here in the summer.
Hornady One Shot cleaner and lube works great without much effort.
Don’t get it confused with Hornady One Shot case Lube which in my opinion is garbage.

For long term storage I use Boeshield T-9 or Fluid Film.

Thanks for the advise, and especially noting that there are OneShot cleaner and lube, and the OneShot case lube. It easy to pick up the wrong can.

 

[vaalpens]

A quick wipe with a Q-tip or pipe cleaner on occasion is what I do. Once in a while I'll spray them with Hornady One-shot before putting them up.

chris

Thanks for the Q-tip and pipe cleaner tip. I am going to assume you are talking about the OneShot cleaner and lube.

 

[vaalpens]

I haven't tread ALL the posts, but from those I did read, no one has yet mentioned cleaning out the little hole in the sizing die (RCBS anyway) that bleeds off air and excess lube, to prevent hydraulic dents in the shoulder.

Thanks for the heads-up. I don't think the Lee sizing dies have the hole, but I will check my Lee dies.

 

[vaalpens]

I generally don't clean or lube dies. I just haven't seen much need to. Every once in a while a die heavily used with cast bullets will need excess bullet lube wiped out of it, which I just do with a paper towel. And I have a few dies which never get used any more, and they are coated in RIG grease and left in their boxes. Otherwise, they all just keep doing what they are supposed to, and I don't see any need to interfere.

Thanks for the comments. So RIG grease for long-term storage then.

 

[EricBu]

Sorry to disappoint everyone, but I definitely do not have any cleaning tips. This thread is basically to ask for some advice regarding best practices or tips for cleaning reloading dies.

There are YouTube videos out there showing basically:

• Cleaning with Hornady OneShot
• Cleaning with brake cleaner
• Cleaning with carb cleaner
• Cleaning with an utrasonic cleaner
• Then after the cleaning protecting it with something

I assume there will be a difference between protecting it for long term storage vs regular usage. What I am interested in is, what protection if any is needed if dies are used once or a few times per month.

My apologies for not sharing my own tips for cleaning dies, but to be honest, I have not been cleaning my dies except for wiping them down with some gun oil on the outside since I have moved to a bit more humid environment.

Seems overthinking it. I've been cleaning my dies the same way for 35 or so years now I guess. Some of them get 15K rounds a month on them, some of them sit on stands or in drawers for years between uses. They get sprayed out with WD-40 to remove case lube and any other residue built up in them, then blasted with the air compressor. Edited to add, this also clears the vent hole in the dies that have them. Doesn't seem to need any more than that.

 

[vaalpens]

As for carbide, if my arthritis is acting up in my shoulder/elbow, then a little lube helps with larger brass like .44Mag or .45Colt, even with carbide. But, don't do what I do and use light machine oil for case lube. Evidently, I am the only person on the planet Earth for whom Singer sewing machine oil (light mineral oil) works for both reloading and firearms lubrication without reversing gravity or causing a worm hole to open up and swallow the universe.

Thanks for the comments. Most reloaders just use what is available, so no worm hole is going to open since you are using Singer sewing machine oil.

 

[ballman6711]

Thanks for the Q-tip and pipe cleaner tip. I am going to assume you are talking about the OneShot cleaner and lube.

Correct, One Shot cleaner and lube.

chris

 

[lightman]

I haven't tread ALL the posts, but from those I did read, no one has yet mentioned cleaning out the little hole in the sizing die (RCBS anyway) that bleeds off air and excess lube, to prevent hydraulic dents in the shoulder.

Good catch!

 

[.38 Special]

Thanks for the comments. So RIG grease for long-term storage then.

The stuff has a good reputation for such tasks (I use it on guns as well) and is easier to remove than Cosmoline. I'm sure there are dozens of effective solutions, though.

 

[vaalpens]

The stuff has a good reputation for such tasks (I use it on gun as well) and is easier to remove than Cosmoline. I'm sure there are dozens of effective solutions, though.

Thanks for confirming.

 

[vaalpens]

Correct, One Shot cleaner and lube.

chris

Thanks for confirming.

 

[vaalpens]

Seems overthinking it. I've been cleaning my dies the same way for 35 or so years now I guess. Some of them get 15K rounds a month on them, some of them sit on stands or in drawers for years between uses. They get sprayed out with WD-40 to remove case lube and any other residue built up in them, then blasted with the air compressor. Edited to add, this also clears the vent hole in the dies that have them. Doesn't seem to need any more than that.

Thanks for the information. I'm not trying to overthink it, just trying se what other reloaders use, and then pick something I am comfortable with.

 

[FROGO207]

The bottlenecked dies are the ones with the vent holes in them. They are located in the shoulder area to eliminate shoulder dents. On mine that means that they are usually located under the lock rings LOL. Wax lubed lead bullets are the worst offenders for getting things gunked up. Regular maintenance does wonders when working with precision tools.

 

[vaalpens]

The bottlenecked dies are the ones with the vent holes in them. They are located in the shoulder area to eliminate shoulder dents. On mine that means that they are usually located under the lock rings LOL. Wax lubed lead bullets are the worst offenders for getting things gunked up. Regular maintenance does wonders when working with precision tools.

Thanks! I'll have to verify my 357sig die since it is a bottleneck die.

 

[barnfrog]

As for carbide, if my arthritis is acting up in my shoulder/elbow, then a little lube helps with larger brass like .44Mag or .45Colt, even with carbide. But, don't do what I do and use light machine oil for case lube. Evidently, I am the only person on the planet Earth for whom Singer sewing machine oil (light mineral oil) works for both reloading and firearms lubrication without reversing gravity or causing a worm hole to open up and swallow the universe.

Maybe YOU'RE the one causing climate change.

 

[Blue68f100]

The bottlenecked dies are the ones with the vent holes in them. They are located in the shoulder area to eliminate shoulder dents. On mine that means that they are usually located under the lock rings LOL. Wax lubed lead bullets are the worst offenders for getting things gunked up. Regular maintenance does wonders when working with precision tools.

Years ago ( 70's) when I started hand loading I had problems with dents on a new set of dies I was setting up. Took me a while to find the source. The lead shot under the set screw (on the locking ring) happen to land squarely on the vent hole sealing it off. I ended up flipping the lock ring over to get the lead shot away from the vent hole.

 

[JimKirk]

I take my die outside and wash them out with spray ether(starting fluid)... cuts any build oil grease wax .... evaporates really quick ...but I use air to blow out and then protect the clean metal with Rem oil ....blow out again ....

Outside for a reason ...away from any source of flame or spark ...

Do the RCBS 357 SIG dies too ...I use the spray lanolin alcohol mix lube with those .... cuts it right out ..

 

[BushMaster-15]

Cleaning Dies and Coating Dies ; I could publish a short book on it . Basically if you don't have an ultrasonic cleaner ,just get an appropriate metal pan ( or empty soup can ) and place them in it cover with Acetone or Lacquer thinner .
Allow a couple of minutes and take a QTip swab wash or wipe inside while in the solution . Upon removal immediate compressed air dry ,followed by your choice of lube product . I use Boeshield T9 inside and out , set on cardboard allow #5 minutes and wipe any excess off with paper towels or clean shop rag . You can take the Dirty thinner and strain it via coffee and paper towel filter and place it into an appropriately Marked Metal can for later reuses also .
I wear special Stansolv gloves for chemical protection . You can just Double up on nitrile gloves from that harbor place but DON'T keep your fingers submerged in either solvent . As an occupational hazard I have ZERO fat left in my hands ,hell I don't even have legible fingerprints any longer !.

 

[vaalpens]

I take my die outside and wash them out with spray ether(starting fluid)... cuts any build oil grease wax .... evaporates really quick ...but I use air to blow out and then protect the clean metal with Rem oil ....blow out again ....

Outside for a reason ...away from any source of flame or spark ...

Do the RCBS 357 SIG dies too ...I use the spray lanolin alcohol mix lube with those .... cuts it right out ..

Thanks for the advise. We always get lazy and don't want to make the extra effort to take things outside. It is a safety issue and a health issue.

Do you use the Rem oil wipes? I love those and use them to wipe down my guns after cleaning, or after handling them. leaves a nice clean sheen on them.