Whole Lotta Leadin' Goin' On (probably more than you think)

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Mauser69

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There's a whole lotta leadin' goin' on, and I'm sick of it! Man do I hate scrubbing that stuff out.

The purpose of this thread is to debunk many of those claims that all them lead bullets don't lead the bores, and to share my recent testing details. But this is liable to be long, so I'll probably break it into different posts.

Part 1 will deal primarily with my premiss that a whole lotta folks just can't tell leading when they (don't) see it, along with a bit about me and my guns to help frame the discussion.

Bottom line is that I no longer swallow all those statements you see on this and other forums along the lines of "I've been loadin them lead boolits for neigh onto 250 years now, probably shot mor'n 2 millon of 'em, and I ain't never had no leadin. All ya gotts to do is match the hardness to the speed and you won't have no problem." And I really know the poster has questionable data when I read "My barrel is as bright and shiny as it was when new!"

Now I don't claim to be any expert on this, but then again, it ain't my first rodeo either. I've been shooting all kinds of guns since the 60s, and reloading for just as long. And while I haven't shot a ton of cast bullets until recently, I have sent thousands of swaged lead slugs down range from my Blackhawk revolvers over the years.

But the vast majority of my handgun ammo has been jacketed, and I think that is significant to understanding why I, too, WAS one of those folks that used to say flatly that I did not have a leading problem. I'll get into more of that when I get to the testing details in a later post.

My testing has been done with 5 different .40 pistols, a .357 Ruger Blackhawk, a S&W M29 and a Ruger Super Blackhawk. So far, my results have been pretty much the same with all 8 guns, but these posts will deal specifically with the .44 Spl and .44 Mag testing in the M29 and Super Blackhawk.

I have used primarily only three different bullets in the .44s, all from Missouri Bullet Company: 180 grain RNFP Cowboy #7 (BH12), 200 grain coated RNFP Cowboy #5 (BH12), and 240 grain SWC Keith (BH18). I have used a variety of powders and loads to generate low pressure snail loads all the way up to Keith level magnum loads, and EVERY SINGLE LOAD, with EVERY SINGLE BULLET has left significant leading after a single 20 shot string.

Now I am not talking about big slobbering gobs of lead (although I generated a few of those too!), but enough that I could feel it on a dry tightly fitted patch around a brass jag pushed through the bore after initial scrubbing with a brass brush and Hoppe's No. 9. But in almost all cases, after that initial cleaning, the bores all looked bright and shiny when looked through from the muzzle with a light in the breech. I'll get into the significance of that when I start loading up the pictures and talk about why I think half of the folks can't even see the lead in front of their face.

More to come...
 
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Oh boy this is going to be good, gotta get the popcorn ready:)

IMHO there a couple things wrong with most of the cast bullet that cropped up lately. First is the majority are casting bullets that are 15 BHN this is just to hard unless your loading for full power magnum velocites. Heck Elmer Keith used 16-1 for his bullets which is about 11 BHN and had no problems. Second is the blasted bevel base which causes gas blow by from the hot gases. This IMHO is where most issues are coming from but not entirely as there is another contributing factor that is not helping. That factor is the hard lube which is used so that it don't come off the bullet during transport. For the shooter however it isn't doing them any favors. There shouldn't be any lube left on the bullet once it leaves the barrel, but with these hard lubes often times there is.

I recovered a couple of cast bullets from the dirt backstop of the local range some years ago. They are the typical 215gr .41 cal SWC over 8 grains of Unique, every one of them still had some lube on them. That told me that the lube is not performing as it should. There should be no lube left on the bullet as it should be getting deposited in the barrel. In order to cut down on the leading from these hard bullets I started coating them in Lee liquid Alox.

Once I use up what I have I'm not giving any more business to these companies that manufacture these bullets. I've since found a place to order traditional cast bullets from that makes real Keith bullets and uses real lube and are 11 BHN. Just my $.02 on the issue.
 
All ya gotts to do is match the hardness to the speed and you won't have no problem.

Nowhere do you mention throat size, bore and groove, or boolit diameter...

You may want to check those throats and barrels, and then size your boolits accordingly...

Make sure you also check for constriction at the threads...
 
I agree its magic. There's no way to calculate a nolead combo. I got my low lead combo entirely by trial and error. Lasercast 22bhn doesn't lead my 44mag max loads. Other things do. No idea why, and I understand the theories of obturation, etc.

Leading is very subjective too. We need a way to objectively measure it.


Edfardos
 
yeah i will be watching this one. I hope he understands that the forcing cone on a revolver has a lot to do with this. and also true velocity over the book velocity if i was him i would try the 12 bhn boolits working them up with 44 mag until i got no leading. also maybe try to lube them with lee alox. but first is first, nothing will work with a forcing cone that is smaller than the barrel diameter.

Can i suggest going over to: http://www.castboolits.gunloads.com/ those guys will get you straitened out on this real quick.
 
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All ya gotts to do is match the hardness to the speed and you won't have no problem.

Nowhere do you mention throat size, bore and groove, or boolit diameter...

You may want to check those throats and barrels, and then size your boolits accordingly...

Make sure you also check for constriction at the threads...

Yep, agree! I'm one of those that can say I don't get much if any leading in any of my .44 Magnums (or any of my other guns if I follow my "rules"), and yep, I know what leading looks like. The whole thing for me is bullet to gun fit. It don't matter what you do with a bullet if it's too small and/or too hard you'll get leading. I've also used softer alloys (WW, range lead, and "mystery metal") but as long as the bullet fits, there is a very good chance of no bore leading. For my Magnum loadings, up to near max. charges of WC820 or 2400, I'll go with a slightly harder alloy (mebbe 15-16) to help prevent bullets from skidding...
 
I have the soda (pop) and candy

Wait for the:

Giotta slug the bore and barrel

Gotta have custom made boolits to match your exact bore to 10/1000th of an inch

Gotta, match the BHN with the velocity

Gotta have the right alloy

Gotta have the right lube.:)
 
Thanx guys, I appreciate your comments so far. And let me stress here that I am not trying to insult anyone. If you think you already know something I say, that's great - I wasn't implying that you don't. And I am not trying to start any arguments. But by all means, if you DISAGREE with something I say, I absolutely want to hear it. You may convince me or others, and you may not, but sharing info for consideration is most valuable.

336A - I do not disagree with anything you said at all. In fact, I have already mostly come to those same conclusions. My main purpose in starting this thread was to get more info out there for folks that do not already think they totally understand the leading thing.

Salmoneye - I didn't provide any details on anything yet. The quote you use is simply a sample quote that I included just to emphasize the simplistic statements I too often see and do not believe. People that say those things do none of us any good. I WILL be including lots of detail when I get to that point in formulating this stuff into more posts in this thread.

I have done my research. I do understand things like throat and bore size, obduration, bullet hardness vs. pressure and speed (as well as the various CONFLICTING formulas that are supposed to tell you how to match a load to a specific hardness), different types of lube, etc. etc.

And I do know that my sample testing with only 8 different guns and perhaps 10 different types and brands of bullets is relatively minor. But I think it is enough to fairly indicate that the issue is probably more significant than some folks want you to believe.

Although I have never personally experienced a lead bullet load that did not leave behind some lead misery (when carefully tested and examined), I certainly am not trying to say such a wonderful thing does not exist; I still hope to find such a combination myself one day! In the mean time, I have learned a lot about removing lead while I shoot up the nasty bullets I currently have. And I think I'll be buying a lot more plated bullets instead of cast or coated - at least with my initial testing in the five .40 caliber autoloaders I own, the Rainier plated bullets I have used do NOT leave behind any nasty surprises.
 
You have to realize too, when you buy commercial bullets, you are, for the most part, getting a one-size-fits-all bullet. Honestly I have very little experience with commercial cast bullets having only fired probably 1500 or so in my life, so I cannot speak with much authority on them other than to say I don't recall having much problem with them.

Surely you don't think you'll NEVER get leading, do you? Some firearms lead worse than others. Over the last week or do I've shooting one of my Uberti's, a 45 Colt, just about every evening after work. The procedure is load 15 rounds, chronograph 5, shoot a group at 25 yds., another at 50, then back in to the shop to load 15 or 20 more, repeat until it's too dark to shoot. After a few days of doing this it occurred to me that I hadn't cleaned the revolver in a long time. I checked the bore and sure enough, there was a little lead downstream of the forcing cone. A few strokes with the .44 caliber brush wrapped with bronze wool, and I was back in business.

To my way thinking, this is no big deal. If cast bullets didn't work, and work well, there wouldn't be the plethora of mould and bullet makers in existence that there are.

35W
 
I used to complain constantly about my barrels leading up until I started casting my own.
I was buying MBC bullets and they leaded on my in every pistol I owned, when I started casting my own my leading problem went away. My lead alloy is probably around 8 brll.
I'm using cheap Lee tumble dies and liquid alox cut to 50-50 with mineral spirits and haven't had leading in any of my pistols since.

Maybe the bullets I cast fit better then MBCs did, but I think their bullets are to hard and they are bevel based. I can mark mine with my finger nails and I shoot them up to around 1k fps.

So, well?

Same as everyone else is saying.
 
Cast bullets with flat, square edges, sharp bottoms are so much better and more accurate than bevel base bullets.
The difference gets more evident the more the power level goes up and the more distance to target.
In 38 Special and 45acp at close range, not so much, in 44 Magnum at 50 yards and out it's very very noticeable, no comparison.
 
I didn't provide any details on anything yet. The quote you use is simply a sample quote that I included just to emphasize the simplistic statements I too often see and do not believe.

Yes...I understood that...

I was pointing out that your quoted 'simplistic' approach will more than likely yield leading...
 
OK the OP threw out some chum to get folks stirred up, then where is the information, tests, data or whatever you are going to enlighten us on?

The "more to come...."??
 
Now I am not talking about big slobbering gobs of lead (although I generated a few of those too!), but enough that I could feel it on a dry tightly fitted patch around a brass jag pushed through the bore after initial scrubbing with a brass brush and Hoppe's No. 9. But in almost all cases, after that initial cleaning, the bores all looked bright and shiny when looked through from the muzzle with a light in the breech. I'll get into the significance of that when I start loading up the pictures and talk about why I think half of the folks can't even see the lead in front of their face.

Well right there is a big part of your leading problem. Hoppe's 9 is wonderful stuff, but it won't take lead out worth a hoot. Montana Extreme's Cowboy blend is about the best commercial stuff for taking out leading, but the best and available almost anywhere is pure gum spirits of turpentine. Take a flannel patch soaked in the turpentine and push it thru the bore a couple of times and follow with a dry flannel patch. It amazes many folks with absolutely clean bores with no leading how much lead will come out using the turpentine.
Until you get the bores of those guns cleaned you will get leading. Once the bores are absolutely spotless and a white flannel patch comes out just as clean as it went in, then you need to start looking at bullet diameter and better lubes etc..
 
Explain success

Millions of 22LR have been shot without a lead issue.
1200 FPS plain lead outside lubricated. Most are dead soft bullets.
If your firearm barrel is leading, something is not right. Don't blame the lead.
 
As a long time bullet caster, I've discovered a few things.

Heavy lead fouling comes from gas cutting along the sides of the bullet...essentially melting the alloy and depositing it on the bore. Bullet alloy is an efficient solder, so it sticks.

Undersized bullets.

Undersized cylinder throats in revolvers are very good sizer dies, and will swage a bullet to below bore diameter.

Alloy too hard for the application that doesn't allow for a quick obturation...or bump up...will do it, and bevel based bullets are worse than plain bases. I cast an alloy of my own making that tests at 11.5-12 Brinell, and I don't get fouling beyond a light wash that cleans up quickly and easily.

Most commercial cast bullets are too hard.

I use the same alloy for everything up to and including magnum revolver loads in .357 and .41 Magnum at near top velocities without a problem.

Lube that's too hard is a contributor. Like the alloy in commercial bullets...the lube is also a little too hard. It has to be for bulk-packed bullets, but it's a bit too hard for best performance.

Light loads...too light to obturate the bullet will do it every time.

Just my own experience.
 
I've never had one single gun that had lead in the barrel! I always take at least 2 guns to the range. :evil:

One bullet that has surprised me that has left minimal leading is Lee's TL358-148WC. Cast by a friend of WW, sized by me and lubed with Alox. Then loaded with Unique in 357 mag cases and pushed out the bore at over 1,200 fps. Let's just say that I love to experiment with the unusual.
 
I just buy cast bullets and shoot them. If they required all the hassle of slugging the bore and worrying about obturation then cast bullets would not be for me. Not all cast bullets lead bores in my experience.
 
Lube that's too hard is a contributor. Like the alloy in commercial bullets...the lube is also a little too hard. It has to be for bulk-packed bullets, but it's a bit too hard for best performance.

Alloy too hard for the application that doesn't allow for a quick obturation...or bump up...will do it, and bevel based bullets are worse than plain bases. I cast an alloy of my own making that tests at 11.5-12 Brinell, and I don't get fouling beyond a light wash that cleans up quickly and easily.

Most commercial cast bullets are too hard.

Exactly and this why I can't wait to start casting my own. I really do wish the commercial casters would start offering softer bullets with plain bases and good alox lube. A BHN of 12 IMHO would be pert' near perfect. Here is some fat to chew on for a minute. Not long ago I got in on a special run of .41 230gr Keith bullets from a well known caster that unfortunately:( left the business. I got 200 of them, one would think if he can ship his bullets with alox lube then the bigger commercial guys should be able to as well. I also got some other bullets from a well known maker that uses alox lube. None of the those bullets are missing any lube, have any voids or other defects that I've seen with commercial bevel based bullets.

These bevel based bullets are horrible due to the gas cutting, and as I said in my last post I can't wait to divest myself of them. Of course it wasn't until I read this most excellent article that I knew what was going on.

http://www.lasc.us/Fryxell_Book_Contents.htm
 
Most commercial cast bullets are too hard.

That's been my problem. Sometime back, hardness was considered a quality attribute. The harder the bullet, the more quality. I still have some Bull-X hard cast bullets, they are the truncated cone 230 LFN bullets. Suckers are hard to scratch with a fingernail. And they lead. They lead where my softer 230 LRN bullets don't.

My recommendation, shoot a cylinder full of jacketed just before you finish. That will scrape out most of the lead fouling. Shoot enough jacketed and all lead fouling comes out.
 
Can anyone guess were the craze of really hard cast bullets stemmed from?:) I can it happened IIRC about 1986-87, but those products are for a very specialized purpose and task. Not for everyday plinking or target practice. It wasn't long afterwards that everyone was offering Hard Cast bullets that were/are way harder than needed/warranted.
 
This is a road I have well traveled and while I did become successful at minimizing or even eliminating leading, I've seen the light.

Powder Coat them suckers and fuggedaboutit.

With PC I'm able to use a much softer mix and utilize my surplus of soft lead combined with my wheel weights. No smoke, No leading, faster velocities and half the cleaning time involved.
 
OK the OP threw out some chum to get folks stirred up, then where is the information, tests, data or whatever you are going to enlighten us on?

The "more to come...."??
The check is in the mail! ;)
 
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