DEcustomizing a 1911?

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Probably someone tried to tighten it by squeezing it in a crooked vice.

The soft parts bent in, and the hard part didn't.

Inspect it carefully for cracks along the slide rails.

Old school accuracy thing.

You might be better off trying to find a used stock GI slide on the auction sites.

rc
 
It looks like something hit the slide from the inside and pushed it out. Is there any way for the slide lock to hit the inside of the slide with enough force to bend it? There's a mark that matches up with the retaining tab.

These things are known for overly tough and hard slides so I'm at a loss here. Just bought it on Sunday so I'll have to talk to the seller. "Excellent condition."
 
No way, unless bubba tried to drive the slide stop pin out with a big hammer while it was not lined up with the take-down notch in the slide.

rc
 
That 1911 has to be about the uuuugggliest Bubba-ed up hack-job I've ever seen. :what:

Please refrain from posting further pics of it. :scrutiny:

Thank you for your cooperation. :rolleyes:
 
I have this apart now and it seems to have enough going wrong with it I might even try to get the seller to take it back. Everything in the fire control is out of spec, barrel lockup is questionable, and then there's the slide.

I talked with a couple top-shelf 1911 gunsmiths in the area and they both said it'd make a good starting point for a custom build but just fixing it would cost as much as another gun.
 
Take the gun and put it in a machine rest at 50 yards. See what target-grade ammo will group for 10 shots.

If you don't like the mods, post the subsequent test target on the Bullseye-L list on google and someone will QUICKLY relieve you of your purchase and give you the funds to get exactly what you DO want.
 
Those old BoMar rear sights are frequently referred to as 'Rolo's.

The slide bowed may be where the slide was pinched just to the front and rear of the squeeze was done unevenly side to side. As rc said, could be cracked. Remove the slide and clean out the grooves well. Typically they crack where the groove meets the slide body and rail at the top and bottom of the groove.

Definitely budget build and a decent learning project. Good luck with whatever you decide to do.
 
Interestingly enough, right after reading this thread I saw a Norinco 1911 in a pawnshop (first time I've seen one locally) and decided to get a better look.
Was marked at $400, and after reading this thread I decided that a closer inspection was in order. Glad I inspected it, especially for the peening the OP mentioned.

Took it apart. The barrel was an old Colt barrel, with peening of the lugs to the point they were nicely rounded with material catching under my fingernail.
The trigger, slide stop, guide rod, and safety were all aftermarket, as were the grips.
After I explained that the barrel was improperly fit to the gun and had experienced peening which would require replacement and fitting, they offered to drop the price $20.
I passed.
Too bad, I've been looking for one for a custom project, but like the OP, I'm leery of getting into some else's project when it was obviously not done right to begin with.
I'm sorry that it worked out that way for the OP.
 
If you read a lot about them, the capsule review of Norincos is basically "tough frame and slide, likely improperly fitting barrels, everything else is meh." From what people more knowledgeable than I say, the barrel issue is more about the slide but you see the peening early because older barrels are so soft. If you get one of these guns there's a good chance you'll be replacing the fire control group and getting a barrel hard-fit.

As far as my gun, the seller offered to split basic repair costs. Probably as much as I could hope for. If I had to guess I'd say someone botched the sear/hammer doing a trigger job but the safeties might have been improperly fit from the factory. Some of the parts, like the mag catch, have such bad factory machining they're barely usable. I can see why builders see them as good frame donors.
 
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