GP100 in 22lr - has anybody around here shot one?

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Tallball

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My friend at the LGS has one that is barely used. It fits my XL hands very well. I am very, very tempted. Can anyone tell me how well they shoot? I really like the size and weight.
 
No, but I gave the GP-1611 in 357.

I WILL have the GP-100 10 shot in .22 when funds become available.

Can't go wrong with a Ruger. :cool:
 
It's a big heavy .22 LR revolver,,,
With the traditionally heavy Ruger trigger.

I don't like it much myself,,,
And I've fired one on several occasions,,,
That's probably because I have K-frame size hands.

If you like the weight and how it feels in your hand,,,
There's really no answer but to say,,,
Buy yourself the dang gun.

Aarond

.
 
I'd love to try one. I imagine the lack of barrel lug offsets the weight left in the barrel from the smaller bore compared to the .357 version.

The good thing is, it's not hard to clean up and polish a GP100 trigger/hammer mechanism. A lighter trigger spring from Wolff can help, too.
 
Hickock45 on Youtube reviewed one. It's a twenty minute video - approximately. You might find many of your questions answered.
 
Have one here.
It's a hefty gun for a .22, but shoots well, adds velocity over a 4-incher, and the 10-round cylinder's kinda nice.
Denis
 
I can get it cheaper than the 17's and 18's I've seen on GB.

If it's still for sale in a week or two I will probably try to work out a deal. I dry-fired it once and the trigger is very nice. It also fits my XL hands well.
 
Rented one before. It was very nice and a no-recoil piece. Overpriced, but nice! If you found one with a good trigger already at a good price, what's holding you up?
 
Here are a couple of ideas. Let's ignore prices, because it isn't a matter of just plunking down money. For those who think they can easily find an older S&W, best of luck. Not only will you be competing against collectors, but you won't know what the condition of the gun is until after you buy it...Then, its usually time to find parts that are no longer available. That's not a great way to start, but that's real life with S&W revolvers today. A GP is a great design, but it is made for heavy .357 magnum use. The thing sits heavy in the hand and doesn't lend itself to one handed target shooting. The full underlug that was added to compete with S&W 686 style guns is totally out of place on a .22. Even so, I wouldn't mind having a GP .22 if they hadn't made it a 10-shot. Since the S&W 617 has a full underlug and 10 shots, then the GP has to have these features too. But for those who have owned, shot and repaired lots of revolvers the conclusion is that 6 is the proper number of chambers in a revolver cylinder. I'll make an exception for the small frame 5-shot models. 10 rounds of .22 guarantees that the revolver will spit back, fired rounds will be difficult to eject due to chamber reaming problems, (that seem to plague all modern .22's) the hand/ratchet interface is more critical and more likely to cause trouble, and you can't easily index the cylinder if loading only 2 or 3 for beginning shooters. Just my personal opinions.

WM
 
A GP is a great design, but it is made for heavy .357 magnum use. The thing sits heavy in the hand and doesn't lend itself to one handed target shooting. The full underlug that was added to compete with S&W 686 style guns is totally out of place on a .22. Even so, I wouldn't mind having a GP .22 if they hadn't made it a 10-shot. Since the S&W 617 has a full underlug and 10 shots, then the GP has to have these features too. But for those who have owned, shot and repaired lots of revolvers the conclusion is that 6 is the proper number of chambers in a revolver cylinder. I'll make an exception for the small frame 5-shot models. 10 rounds of .22 guarantees that the revolver will spit back, fired rounds will be difficult to eject due to chamber reaming problems, (that seem to plague all modern .22's) the hand/ratchet interface is more critical and more likely to cause trouble, and you can't easily index the cylinder if loading only 2 or 3 for beginning shooters. Just my personal opinions.

WM

The good thing is, Ruger removed the full underlug on the .22 version. However, the smaller bore of the .22 barrel keeps the weight in the barrel virtually the same as the .357 version with full underlug.

Regarding capacity, I like more than 6 if the cylinder can take it in any revolver. I do understand the difficulty of getting 8, 9, or 10 chambers timed correctly, but if it isn't a bullseye competition type gun, I'd rather have the higher capacity with the understood loss in chamber to chamber timing precision.
 
Here are a couple of ideas. Let's ignore prices, because it isn't a matter of just plunking down money. For those who think they can easily find an older S&W, best of luck. Not only will you be competing against collectors, but you won't know what the condition of the gun is until after you buy it...Then, its usually time to find parts that are no longer available. That's not a great way to start, but that's real life with S&W revolvers today. A GP is a great design, but it is made for heavy .357 magnum use. The thing sits heavy in the hand and doesn't lend itself to one handed target shooting. The full underlug that was added to compete with S&W 686 style guns is totally out of place on a .22. Even so, I wouldn't mind having a GP .22 if they hadn't made it a 10-shot. Since the S&W 617 has a full underlug and 10 shots, then the GP has to have these features too. But for those who have owned, shot and repaired lots of revolvers the conclusion is that 6 is the proper number of chambers in a revolver cylinder. I'll make an exception for the small frame 5-shot models. 10 rounds of .22 guarantees that the revolver will spit back, fired rounds will be difficult to eject due to chamber reaming problems, (that seem to plague all modern .22's) the hand/ratchet interface is more critical and more likely to cause trouble, and you can't easily index the cylinder if loading only 2 or 3 for beginning shooters. Just my personal opinions.

WM

H&R had good luck with their 999 series. Mine doesn't spit and the fired rounds eject just fine.
 
My sister has one and it's way too heavy for my taste. But if you like the weight, you'll like the gun. I used to love Ruger revolvers, but then it went into business making boat anchors that look like revolvers. I love its .22lr Mark II/III/IVs, but if it looks like it was copied out of a block of steel, forget it.
 
Folks always seem to come up with odd reasons to criticize new offerings. Time for a reality check. The vaunted pencil barrel K-22 (I have two) runs 43oz for the 6" version, on my scale. The GP-22 is advertised at 42oz. So they are not exactly bulbous heavyweights.

As to price, are we really comparing new guns to used? Are we really expecting a .22LR revolver to cost less than an identical .357, just because it's a rimfire?


Here are a couple of ideas. Let's ignore prices, because it isn't a matter of just plunking down money. For those who think they can easily find an older S&W, best of luck. Not only will you be competing against collectors, but you won't know what the condition of the gun is until after you buy it...Then, its usually time to find parts that are no longer available. That's not a great way to start, but that's real life with S&W revolvers today. A GP is a great design, but it is made for heavy .357 magnum use. The thing sits heavy in the hand and doesn't lend itself to one handed target shooting. The full underlug that was added to compete with S&W 686 style guns is totally out of place on a .22. Even so, I wouldn't mind having a GP .22 if they hadn't made it a 10-shot. Since the S&W 617 has a full underlug and 10 shots, then the GP has to have these features too. But for those who have owned, shot and repaired lots of revolvers the conclusion is that 6 is the proper number of chambers in a revolver cylinder. I'll make an exception for the small frame 5-shot models. 10 rounds of .22 guarantees that the revolver will spit back, fired rounds will be difficult to eject due to chamber reaming problems, (that seem to plague all modern .22's) the hand/ratchet interface is more critical and more likely to cause trouble, and you can't easily index the cylinder if loading only 2 or 3 for beginning shooters. Just my personal opinions.

WM
It is very easy to find older S&W's. Finding one that may save you money over a new Ruger is questionable. As is the need to go replacing parts on a new acquisition. If you know what to look for, buying guns online is a safe proposition, given good pics. However, parts are going to eventually be an issue with the older S&W's and if high mileage use is in the gun's future, that may factor into the decision.

The bit about capacity is pure nonsense.
 
You mentioned the one you are looking at is used, how old? A friend of mine bought one when they first came out and he had quite a few misfires with it at first. I have also heard other people complain about misfires with early GP100's

He did some action work and shims to smooth it out and replaced the rebound spring. He may have even made a new firing pin, don't remember for sure. I do remember that the original firing pin was hitting the cartridge rim on the outside edge (as compared to my 617 spent cases).

Maybe your LGS friend will let you dry fire some spent cases in it to compare. I'm guessing the newer ones have addressed this issue because the forum threads I have read lately don't mention misfires.

After he got his gun working good I was able to do some shooting with it. I have to say it shoots very well. For speed shooting sports like pins and steel it's now as good as my 617's.
 
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