cutting rebound leg off of Win 94AE

Hummm...I count two safeties on the Winchester Mod 94. Trigger block, half cock and the third and most important...YOU.

I'm a traditionalist, but strongly suggest not cutting the rebound leg completely off. It can be tuned to give reliable ignition, even with CCI primers (they were harder than others in the past). I wouldnt start at cutting half off without time spent studying the relationship and gauging what will change it in small steps. Just saying "cut half off to start" doesnt sound like it was studied, though perhaps I'm incorrect.

Not having a disaster with the 22 doesnt mean its not possible, nor that the same treatment to the Winchester action will result in no disaster. I dont know you, and this is entirely academic, but I wouldnt go shoot or hunt with anyone that disabled primary safeties on any guns just in the name of improved trigger action. I think its a poor trade-off, and a poor way to do an actual trigger job. Springs arent a "trigger job" either.

The rebound IS the safety, There is no effective half cock safety notch, just a shelf that doesnt hold the sear well. If your gun was made in the period that was right before the crossbolts came in, it should have a trigger block, with entailed an very long forward motion of the trigger to engage the block fully. I believe its only really functional when the rebound works. Some study of the action may change that idea of having to have the rebound fully functional for the trigger block to work right, but thats how its basically works. Its not hard to imagine someone not really understanding the function of the entire trigger/hammer action and think they are doing themselves and the gun a favor by making the trigger not go so far forward.

Some people seem to think of the trigger block that the lever activates is some sort of grip safety. I dont believe that was ever its intention, or certainly not in the first 100 years or so of its use, I believe its function is to prevent an out of battery firing. On the older Winchesters Ive had, once the lever is closed, the trigger block goes in and stays in with the lever closed. Later guns seem to have stronger lever block springs and poorer fitted lever lock plungers that keep the lever closed. Lightening the trigger block spring isnt on my bad idea list if its done well. One shouldnt have to mash the lever up hard to get the gun to fire.

rem700nut said:

have a 1984 Win -94 AE without any kind of saftey , it has a six pound trigger want to lighten it,and it has missfired on one CCI primer reload ,but has fired everything else ,may just be that lot of Obama era primers ,have orderd extra hammer struts and hammer springs, will cut a few coils from spring to lighten trigger pull ,and I assume the lower 2 legs are the ones i need to cut off (Am I right?) half off to save some of the rebound or all the way off and get rid of it all , ,have done this to a Marlin mod-39 .22 lever action ,no problem ,but it not a centerfire Win ,any one do this without any problems ,and any suggestions before I start?
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If you don't know for sure, don't do it, and we all know what happens when you assume. If you aren't a gunsmith, sent it to one. If you are a gunsmith, read this book: https://www.amazon.com/Digest-Book-Firearms-Assembly-Disassembly-ebook/dp/B007KQOVDY

Malamute said:

I think its a poor trade-off, and a poor way to do an actual trigger job. Springs arent a "trigger job" either.

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^^^^ This! A thousand times this! Trigger jobs are the proper fitting of the fire control parts which includes optimizing fit and smoothing the mating surfaces to reduce felt creep. Clipping coils on springs may reduce throw to the point that the hammer looses enough force to ignite the round. Better to buy a spring of reduced weight that is still the proper length to ensure that the hammer is under firm spring pressure all the way to the firing pin. https://www.gunsprings.com/WINCHESTER/94/cID2/mID120/dID334