Wanted on a second opinion on my process.

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Point_Taken

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Just wanted to make sure I won't run into any potential problems down the road with my process for making ammo. I figure just because It's worked so far, doesn't mean I'm not missing a potential issue. I only bring this up because I've seen some users here have a slightly different process.

With pistol and rifle brass, I use Hornady Spray lube, put about 100-200 cases in a quart size zip lock back, spray it in there, toss it around, spray some more, basically get a decent amount of lube then toss it into my case feeder. From there, the first die is the resizing/depriming die, then second die is the bell for bullet seating. With rifle the only step I add after that is trimming on my Giraud trimmer. From there I wet tumble 3-5 hours and then throw in my Hornady dryer.

After that is the repriming, charge, bullet seating, crimp (if necessary) and that's it.

Wanted to see if anyone see's in holes or problems in my process.
 
3-5 hrs seems like a long time to wet tumble. I go for 1.5hrs in the FART, maybe 2hrs if it's range pickup. Always comes out clean with clean pockets.
 
Are you cleaning the cases prior too sizing?????

Just make sure you allow plenty of time for the Hornady Lube (especially if OS) to evaporate the carrier before sizing.
I suppose I would if it was supper dirty with gravel and what not, but as of now now, its usually dirt free that I just lube it, deprime/resize it, then clean it.
 
I suppose I would if it was supper dirty with gravel and what not, but as of now now, its usually dirt free that I just lube it, deprime/resize it, then clean it.
your running dirty brass into a die that's inside is smooth and polished so this is just asking for either stuck case or scratches to both die and brass. get a universal decapping die, decap them, then wet tumble. use an old wash rag to wipe of lube when done sizing.
 
Just make sure you allow plenty of time for the Hornady Lube (especially if OS) to evaporate the carrier before sizing.

I've heard that before, what problem is that supposed to prevent? I size all my brass and with One Shot and never wait for it to evaporate before sizing.
 
if u don't let the carrier evaportate, you WILL, sooner or later, stick a case in a rifle die because it was not dry and able to do it's job. There are MANY accounts of stuck cases on the internet, and the lube being used is ALWAYS OneShot.
 
On your first pass just deprime, then tumble. Use a small amount of Amour All Wash-and-Wax (car wash product) and a small amount of Lemishine (or other source of citric acid). When you get the proportions right (it depends on how dirty the brass is and how hard your water is), it will only take 1-1.5 hours to get them clean. I use hot water from the tap, it seems to hasten the process.

Get the brass out of the tumbler and rise it thoroughly ASAP - the citric acid will leach the zinc out of the brass (imparting a pinkish color), weakening the brass over time. Five hours is way too long. Only tumble as long as it takes to get stuff clean and get them rinsed right away. You can then let them air-dry (takes forever) or put them in the oven for ~2 hours at 175-200F (no hotter).

A big key to getting your brass clean is keeping the pins clean. You will have to run a cycle with soap and citric acid but with no brass occasionally to cleanse the pins. Once they get dirty the brass will be dirty and have little shine even after tumbling for hours. Too much wash-and-wax will cause a slimy coating of dirt on the pins that comes off on your fingers. When you get it all right the wax from the wash-and-wax will lubricate the cases adequately for pistol - but even if you just use Dawn getting the cases really clean is enough with carbide dies. My understanding is bottleneck rifle still requires lubrication (I don't reload rifle calibers).
 
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if u don't let the carrier evaportate, you WILL, sooner or later, stick a case in a rifle die because it was not dry and able to do it's job. There are MANY accounts of stuck cases on the internet, and the lube being used is ALWAYS OneShot.

It is supposed to prevent the case from sticking in the die.

When I first started using it I was instructed to spray the cases standing in a loading block which is a guaranteed stuck case due to the lube not reaching the base of the case as I found out the hard way. Once I figured out to spray them in a bucket and shake them so as to coat the entire case I have never come anywhere close to sticking a case and I never let them dry. Spray, shake, size. I use one shot to form 30 herrett and blackout brass which involves forming new shoulders and necks out of what was case body. I even recently formed a few 308 cases out of 30-06. If anything were going to stick a case it would be that. 30 Herrett below

threestep72.jpg
 
Ditch the Hornady One shot and get a real lube like imperial sizing wax! I rub my finger in it and good to go for like 8 cases.
 
For the basics, you are ok.

After a while when you want to start improving your techniques, there are going to be dozens of opinions in threads like this as to what to do. You still need to do your own research and make your own decisions.
 
I have had a few stuck cases with spray lube and changed over to a hand-applied lube. I have no doubt that one can use spray lubes successfully forever without having a problem... but I cannot!

Also, I don't like sizing dirty brass. Your sizing die may be the most dimensionally-critical of all your dies. I don't worry about gunpowder residue (it's soft and something of a lubricant!), but I do worry about sand or steel metal shavings.
 
I dont see any issues.

I use OneShot for pistol brass and homebrew lano/iso lube for rifle though.
 
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