50 Beowulf build anything I'm missing?

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thanks guys all my parts came in today except gas block and tube, I dry fit everything, went together in 15 min lol I will not tell anyone I built an AR lol I just put one together... I will google also but I am sure you guys know how much do I torque the barrel nut on? I just have everything hand tight, so I can show my friends :), till I get the gas block and some ammo.
 
And if anyone wondered cost was $525 including all shipping and tax. so I saved at least $100 and I have an Upper exactly how I want it. Now that I have done it, if you forgo the the muzzle brake and buy a regular upper and open up the ejection port yourself you could build an upper for even less maybe $450-$475ish.
 
I'm assuming you have to time the barrel nut to get the the handguard aligned with the upper rail. I go up to 50 then break it free. After that I go to 35 then align the barrel nut properly, without going over 60lbs.

Personally I generally use clamp on handguards, so I set torque at 45.
 
ill try that with the hand guard in the vise instead of the receiver. just waiting on the gas tube and block still.
 
lobo9er said:
ill try that with the hand guard in the vise instead of the receiver. just waiting on the gas tube and block still.
Click to expand...

i didnt think to ask earlier, but what tools are you using for your build? some barrel nuts require specific wrenches, and some parts require special tools, like this plastic upper ive got requiring something like a reaction bar to install the barrel and barrel nut.
 
my generic barrel wrench fits the barrel nut luckily, the hand guard is from KMTactical, 15 inch, adjustable rails, it was $40 bucks didn't think that was to bad I can alway upgrade if I feel its needed. But as far as I can tell the barrel wrench is the tool required. Since I live in Communist NY I do have to do a few extra steps to make it street legal though. we'll see what that entails. I think I am going to go the bullet button route if thats what is required. It will be a hunting gun so relatively slow reload isn't a big deal to me.
 
Cool, I had to buy a crows foot wrench for installing some nuts a while back.

I always kinda wondered about the requirements for stuff like bullet buttons, the premis makes little sense to me. But I guess like my buddy says about door locks, just keeps the honest people honest?
 
yeah so in NY the bullet button doesn't cut it you have to epoxy the the hole in the button so the mag is stuck with out drilling out the epoxy... super stupid...
 
Kp321 said:
Your upper should be headspaced to a standard mil-spec bolt so I would not worry. A straight case headspaces on the case mouth and is not as critical as a bottle necked case.
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There is no "milspec" for a 50 Beowulf. The bolt has been opened up to accommodate the case head so throw all this "MILSPEC" crap right put of this conversation. You need to know that you will not see high pressure signs if you're working up loads. The standards for these big bores are a little bit different. if you shoot nothing but factory loaded ammo be sure it's approved/tested for your AR. Standard AR is rated for 56,000 psi. These big bores are 36,000 at the most. Not sure for the 50 Beowulf.
 
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LoonWulf said:
Ewww......well I did see a kit thing that was supposed to make that easier.
Click to expand...
yes its ridiculous other options would be featureless or make it a "bolt action" which is still on the table if I went that route I would buy a lantac bolt carrier that works with a standard AR upper.
 
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