Reloading steel case 7.62x39 for hunting with CFE BLK

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someguy2800

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Thought I would share this as it might be interesting to some of you 7.62x39 lovers.

I decided last minute about 2 weeks ago that I wanted to take my 7.62x39 AR15 deer hunting. I never thought I would own an AR15 let alone would I be deer hunting with one but quite frankly I’ve fallen in love with it even though I have several more traditional hunting rifles.

I built it off an Anderson lower and Bear Creek Arsenal dual charging upper

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The ammo I wanted to use is a 125 gr nosler accubond loaded with hodgdons new CFE BLK powder. The inspiration for this came from my father in law. Back in the early 90’s him and a friend both bought SKS’s for $80 each from a drug store. He said at the time reloadable brass was not available so they bought a spam can of ammo and the two of them in a weekend pulled all the bullets from them, poured the powder back in, and seated new .311 diameter softpoint bullets to about 500 rounds of ammo. He took one deer with it and passed it on to his brother who hunted with that ammo for years.

So I thought it would be fun to do the same. Initially I went and bought 3 boxes of Fiocchi fmj brass case ammo, threw the powder and bullets away, resized the necks to .308 using the expander out of my 300 blackout die, and loaded them up. Results were impressive. I worked from 28-30 grains of CFE BLK.

29 grains yielded 2520 FPS
29.5 yielded 2570
30 yielded 2610.

100 yard group

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Problem was the side charging handle on my upper absolutely smashes the case mouths of the brass making most of them unreloadable. So I figured if I can’t reuse the brass I might as well just use steel cases since I have a 1000 rnd case of wolf 124 hp’s.

I pulled the bullets with an impact puller, removed the decapping pin from my size die, lubed them up with Hornady one shot, and full length sized them in the 7.62x39 FL sizing die with a 300 blk expander in place. They sized with almost no effort.

The next hurdle I found was that the steel case mouths shave the bullets when seating, so I put my Lyman universal expander that I use for cast bullets between the sizer and seater and put a very small flare on them. Finally I readjusted my seating die to remove the flare and put in a slight taper crimp.

Shaved bullet on left, flared case in middle, taper crimped case on right.

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I shot the same load workup again and noted the velocities were about 75 FPS slower than the Fiocchi cases. I found the wolf steel cases have about a grain more powder capacity than the brass cases.

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I worked the load up farther up to 31 grains. I think I will back down on the next batch to 30.5 but these still look okay and netted an incredible 2630 FPS with a 125 accubond from a 16” barrel! Accuracy is not quite as good as the brass cases or factory Wolf ammo actually, but still around 1.25”.

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Took this buck with it this afternoon

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Yup, I have found a great fondness for the 7.62x39, it fits a really nice spot between .243 and .308, in the same realm as the 30-30.

Thanks for the thread it’s awesome to see your results especially the velocities out of a 16” barrel.

The CFE BLK has been great for those reloading the x39.
 
Nice to see your experiment pay off with a filled deer tag!

That looks like the bullet you chose worked to perfection, I’d stick with it.

Stay safe!
 
Thought I would share this as it might be interesting to some of you 7.62x39 lovers.

Awesome!

Have you tried loading any x39s up with 150 grain bullets, like 308 type of pills? People keep saying the x39 is basically a 30-30, and it would be interesting to see how much velocity you could get with 30-30 sized bullets.
 
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Awesome!

Have you tried loading any x39s up with 150 grain bullets, like 308 type of pills? People keep saying the x39 is basically a 30-30, and it would be interesting to see how much velocity you could get with 30-30 sized bullets.

I haven’t and probably won’t but I suspect you could match 30-30 velocities with a stubby bullet. These bullets I’m using are .308 diameter.
 
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More freezer meat, we are tagged out on bucks but we have one more doe tag yet to top off the freezers. Shot was in the neck at about 150 yards away going away. I watched her pass by me for 10 minutes but that was the only time I had a hole in the brush. Could only see her neck and part of her head. She bang flopped then got up 20 seconds later and ran 150 more yards into the slough with her caroted artery out. She just wanted to make sure I got wet too.
 
Congrats..... Years ago I was entertaining the idea of reloading 7.62x39 steel cases that way but wound up just buying brass cases for use in an SKS. Used .310" Hornady 123 gr. S.P.'s because I thought any .308" dia. bullet wouldn't be accurate in a barrel made for .310" bullets. Sounds like your barrel is spec'd for .308" bullets and it sure is "minute of deer" accurate. I've also never ran steel cases into a reloading die and was worried about possibly causing excess wear on the die (?) . But apparently it works quite well and looks as though you're on to something good.
 
Congrats..... Years ago I was entertaining the idea of reloading 7.62x39 steel cases that way but wound up just buying brass cases for use in an SKS. Used .310" Hornady 123 gr. S.P.'s because I thought any .308" dia. bullet wouldn't be accurate in a barrel made for .310" bullets. Sounds like your barrel is spec'd for .308" bullets and it sure is "minute of deer" accurate. I've also never ran steel cases into a reloading die and was worried about possibly causing excess wear on the die (?) . But apparently it works quite well and looks as though you're on to something good.

No it is a .311” bore barrel. The thought that jacketed bullets undersized from the bore will not shoot well is a logical conclusion but it is a myth. I have this 7.62x39, a 30-40 Krag, and a 7.7x58 jap, all with bores ranging from .311 to .314 and all three shoot perfectly well with .308 jacketed bullets. I bought .312” diameter bullets to shoot in the Arisaka and Krag (Krags are supposed to be .308 bore but mine slugs at .311”) and in both rifles they shot better with 308 bullets. The soft jacketed bullets obturate under pressure to fit whatever the bore size is and shoot great.

As for scratching the dies, the steel cases are anealed and are pretty soft. You can debur them by hand even with the crappy Lee deburing tool. The polymer coating on them also makes them size really slick.
 
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I've heard about folks getting good results with .308 bullets in the larger bores but I got turned off to the idea after trying .308 bullets in a Mosin-Nagant 91-30 that shoots good with .310 bullets. The .308 stuff was basically a waste of time in that one. I've got a bunch of .310 bullets here for the Mosin and even some .311-.312 bullets for a .303 British. I should do some barrel slugging to determine the exact bore size on some of these. I forgot about that polymer coating on the steel cases and that would probably be a great help on those things going in & out of a sizing die.
 
Put a rubber tube over that side charger and it will decrease the brass denting. You'll have to experiment with what to put on it, but I'd probably go into a box store in the rubber tubing/hoses and find something close enough. Or an auto parts store.
 
Put a rubber tube over that side charger and it will decrease the brass denting. You'll have to experiment with what to put on it, but I'd probably go into a box store in the rubber tubing/hoses and find something close enough. Or an auto parts store.

This is a dual charging upper (has a standard charging handle as well as the side handle) so I could just take it off.
 
Nice work! You probably know I switched from RL-7 to CFE BLK in my 7.62x39 a while back. With Lapua brass, I am getting 2600 fps with 123 SST's. The accuracy is outstanding. Often same hole at 100. It's easily the best powder I've used for this caliber yet.
 
Seems like I'm not the only one to discover CFE BLK in the 7.62x39 accuracy is superb and velocity can't be touched with other powders. I'm using a Hornady 135 FTX 308 diameter in my 7.62x39 27.3gr CFE BLK gives me 2280 fps in a 16" barrel.

Killed 2 deer this year with it. Performance was good can't complain, but I've got some .310 diameter Gold Dots to try. I'm just like the OP I shouldn't like the cheap x39 upper as much as I do but I LOVE it and it shouldn't shoot as well as it DOES for the $180 I paid for it. Probably my #2 favorite gun I own.
 
The next hurdle I found was that the steel case mouths shave the bullets when seating, so I put my Lyman universal expander that I use for cast bullets between the sizer and seater and put a very small flare on them. Finally I readjusted my seating die to remove the flare and put in a slight taper crimp.

Shaved bullet on left, flared case in middle, taper crimped case on right.

I pulled the bullets and saved the powder on Chinese 308 Win cases. I used them in rattle battle practice and did not care if I picked them up again. I replaced the Chinese ball bullet with a good bullet, might have been the 174 FMJBT or168 SMK's and I also found that bullets shaved when inserted in the case mouth. So I used a Dremel tool grinding bit and ground a bevel on the inside of the case mouth. That worked great!

I was actually very surprised on how accurate my groups were with steel case ammunition. I measured case neck run out and the things were all a thousandth's of an inch or less, the cases were very straight. I did not weigh the primed brass. I expected awful groups from steel case and the stuff shot very well once a good bullet was put on top, so, something is going on. I never did and never will try resizing steel case cases in my sizing dies, I am concerned about wear and perhaps the steel cases busting the die.
 
If sizing steel cases cause wear and "break" a sizing die then we need to get after the die makers. I'm far more concerned about dirt and grit scratching up my die than I am about a steel case hurting it.

For me I resize steel cases alot I use the cases to "mexican match" for my cheap plinking AR'sand to rainy day fund ammo, but have desired accuracy. I use my regular deburr/chamfer tool on them too.
 
I’m still working up the load for my Howa x39 (.311 bore), but from what I’ve seen so far, the Barnes TAC-TX 120g is kicking butt. 2700fps and no pressure signs. Accuracy is fantastic.

I took two deer with factory copper loads this year, but prefer copper, so having the Barnes option is awesome.
 
Same experiences as others. 308 bullets just as accurate as 3.10 in my ar’s chambered in 7.62 39. Have had good luck with 1680 powder. I get a little over 2200 FPS with 150g 308 diameter bullets and 16 inch barrel.
 
A few years ago someone on one of the milsurp forums took apart a bunch of Combloc surplus 7.62x54R. Out of the same box, some bullets varied several grains in weight, as did the powder charges. Just sloppy specs at manufacture, probably.

Testing primers is destructive, of course, but there are actually tools for that. They look like little flare pistols; you insert the primed case, point it in a safe direction, and observe the flame. Apparently the difference between strong and weak primers is easily discernable by eye.
 
A few years ago someone on one of the milsurp forums took apart a bunch of Combloc surplus 7.62x54R. Out of the same box, some bullets varied several grains in weight, as did the powder charges. Just sloppy specs at manufacture, probably.

Testing primers is destructive, of course, but there are actually tools for that. They look like little flare pistols; you insert the primed case, point it in a safe direction, and observe the flame. Apparently the difference between strong and weak primers is easily discernable by eye.

I can't speak for 50 year old surplus ammo but the wolf ammo I am using to make these actually shoot moa in this rifle. I realize that's difficult to believe but I have the targets to prove it. The bullets vary by about a grain but I never tried measuring the powder charge consistency. I am saving the powder in a labeled container as it is a nice stick powder that burns relatively clean.

I have tested primers before by just loading a primer in an empty piece of brass and firing it in the shop. They are surprisingly loud (eye and ear protection required) and yes you can tell the difference between primers both by the sound and the size of the fire puff that comes out the end of the barrel.
 
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