Bigted
Member
Just recieved from Buff arms, a Remmy navy revolver. Seems straight forward but wonder if any others have experience, history or suggestions concerning the remmy navy.
Thanks in advance.
Ted
Thanks in advance.
Ted
The Navy model would be in .36 caliber. Howell makes a 6-shot conversion cylinder for it in .38 Special. He recommends lining the barrel from .375 bore to .357. If you don't reline, you should use hollow-base bullets to get any accuracy at all out of the .375 barrel.buy a howell 45 long colt conversion cylinder for it, if it is a .44 cal. and have some real fun.
The 1858 navy belt pistol can handle load to ball flush. But IMO I would start at 15gns and work up from there until you get the performance you want.Navy's are .36cal so a .45Colt cylinder would be pointless. [I started to ask about .38 cylinders here, but AlexanderA answered my question.] And how is roll-your-own cap&ball loading/shooting any less "real fun" than a conversion cylinder?
What volume powder charge is the Remington type cylinder rated for? Some shoot better with less powder, but be sure the ball seats down on the powder. Are you looking at wonder wads or grease over the ball?
Euroarms? The Euroarms Remmies from that period were made by Armi San Paolo. I have one of them, as well as one made by Uberti. (Both are in .44 cal. instead of .36, for what that's worth.) You are correct that the quality is comparable. The Euroarms is a little more delicate in some dimensions (notably the top strap), but many parts, including the cylinders, will interchange. If using a cartridge conversion cylinder, I would prefer the Uberti because of its greater general robustness.I have one from the later mid 80s , I looks like it was made by ERO Arms for LYMAN but is as beautiful and well made as any Uberti I have.
Mr. Bugted...is it a pietta or uberti?
The 1858 navy belt pistol can handle load to ball flush. But IMO I would start at 15gns and work up from there until you get the performance you want.
Wads to me are just another thing to buy but to each their own. I've never used them. I do seal the ball with a mix of wax and veggie oil melted together that when cooled makes a thick and sticky consistency. Again to each their own.
Typically a .375 ball. My preference is .380. Adds a bit more surface area for rifling engagement.
And of course #10 primer is typical but have seen some in very rare occasions use #11. Think it happens by mistake or was just what was on hand at factory. But rare.
Right, but what's the charge volume? A Colt type Navy can probably handle 25grs just fine, but why would you want to when 15-22grs works well and pleasant?
I agree, to each their own... regarding wads vs grease, wads are convenient to use but not necessary if you know you have a compressed charge and a good seal. I'm not sure I'd bet on a good seal without one or the other.
I'm not disputing your recommended started load. I'm thinking of the max load which cannot be exceeded in the Remington Navy vs Colt Navy. And I'm not saying max load will even be accurate... it could be, but a lot of times it won't be. Now I'm not sure why I thought of it.
That's what makes it practically indestructible using bp and pure lead.Hello. The new Uberti is not made on the correct sized frame. The .36 should be a smaller lighter frame. They just bored it out smaller.