Starting a shoulder barreled, Savage 110, .30-06AI build.

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I had the rum action savage with the crf bolt that thing was cool, but very different.
Id like to get a push feed rum or .375 length 110 action for a .300wm project.

So the 06 barrel thats on this gun is actually in decent shape, there are a few visible blemishes, but not bad. IF someone does want it i can lop off 1/2-3/4" of the front and re crown to get rid of ware, but it actually should hurt anything.
 
I bought some cheap part I had no real need for, this time it was an old Shilen/Brownells .308 barrel off ebay.
Nice choice. I just learned that Savage uses the most hideous, unthinkable tool for the OEM barrels: STRAIGHTENING PRESS.

Whenever a barrel is ever so slightly off, they slam it into a press, hook up an optical gauge and bend the barrel until the bore is straight. In theory this may sound like a good idea, to overcome deficiencies of barrel boring and rifling process, but in reality it's a recipe for infinite, random stringing problems whenever the barrel heats up.

Personally this is an absolute dealbreaker for me for Savage rifles, but the action is quite nice and rebarreling it solves potential problems, so this is the way to go. I'm looking forward to reading your field report once the rifle is completed.
 
Good luck on your project! Very interesting!

I've never done any work on a Savage action, but had one of the first 110s produced, around 1959 and I bought it new for about $110. Mine, an '06 was quite accurate in the Bishop unfinished stock I modified/bedded. Back then, bedding material was often boat repair epoxy, which is what I used. I've posted the old photo before.
 

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Nice choice. I just learned that Savage uses the most hideous, unthinkable tool for the OEM barrels: STRAIGHTENING PRESS.

Whenever a barrel is ever so slightly off, they slam it into a press, hook up an optical gauge and bend the barrel until the bore is straight. In theory this may sound like a good idea, to overcome deficiencies of barrel boring and rifling process, but in reality it's a recipe for infinite, random stringing problems whenever the barrel heats up.

Personally this is an absolute dealbreaker for me for Savage rifles, but the action is quite nice and rebarreling it solves potential problems, so this is the way to go. I'm looking forward to reading your field report once the rifle is completed.
I'm surprised at that. But every Savage I've shot has been very accurate for the first few rounds. It might explain the inability to shoot hot though.
 
I'm surprised at that. But every Savage I've shot has been very accurate for the first few rounds. It might explain the inability to shoot hot though.
It's not all barrels that have received a brute force hydraulic press treatment. Just some. You might well get lucky and get an excellent gun but chances are that the barrel has been bent straight, in which case you're pretty much SOL unless you rebarrel.
 
It certainly doesn't matter to the average hunter.
That may well be the case, simultaneously implying that an average hunter doesn't practise anywhere near enough to be even somewhat proficient with his rifle. If they did, a stringing problem would become obvious rather quickly. One way around is to sight it in cold, one shot ever half an hour or so, and trust that you'll never need precise follow-up shots. Or participate in an european style hog, fallow deer and red buck hunt, where you'll easily take 15-30 game shots an hour, sometimes in matter of minutes. My personal "record" is exhausting an ammo reserve of 60 rounds of .375H&H in one afternoon. :what:

I try to put at least 50-100 rounds through each of the rifles I'm planning to use each season, on top of the regular annual practise of up to a dozen bricks of .22 and maybe a thousand centerfire rifle rounds, but then again, I consider myself a recreational shooter, too.
 
That may well be the case, simultaneously implying that an average hunter doesn't practise anywhere near enough to be even somewhat proficient with his rifle. If they did, a stringing problem would become obvious rather quickly. One way around is to sight it in cold, one shot ever half an hour or so, and trust that you'll never need precise follow-up shots. Or participate in an european style hog, fallow deer and red buck hunt, where you'll easily take 15-30 game shots an hour, sometimes in matter of minutes. My personal "record" is exhausting an ammo reserve of 60 rounds of .375H&H in one afternoon. :what:

I try to put at least 50-100 rounds through each of the rifles I'm planning to use each season, on top of the regular annual practise of up to a dozen bricks of .22 and maybe a thousand centerfire rifle rounds, but then again, I consider myself a recreational shooter, too.
In Maine, I've hunted and repaired rifles for many hunters over about 30 years and doubt that the average deer hunter hasn't fired a 20 round box of ammo in 5 years, yet thinks he can hit the end of a beer can offhand at a hundred yards. I think he'd be very lucky to hit the bottom of a 5 gallon can with one of 5 shots offhand at that distance.

On the other hand putting 50-100 rounds of hunting ammo through a good hunting rifle is a bit more than I like to do, because its likely to harm the barrel and wear it out sooner than I like to with my rifles. I practice shooting offhand a fair amount, especially with a .22LR and .17 hmr. I've shot in turkey shoots, running deer, and other venues and did better than most. I also shoot indoors with my .22LRs during the winter. Despite my age, I'm hanging in there and haven't lost much accuracy over the 60+ years I've been shooting.
 
On the other hand putting 50-100 rounds of hunting ammo through a good hunting rifle is a bit more than I like to do, because its likely to harm the barrel and wear it out sooner than I like to with my rifles.
Admittedly some of my fast/hot caliber rifles like .243 don't see that much use, I have yet to wear out a non-racegun barrel out and with .223 it took me close to 10k rounds before it deteriorated to below a practical level of bench accuracy. OTOH, I have probably a dozen rifles I rotate in various hunts so the round count in most of them is still below 1000. The .308:s see the most use, doubling as my range rifles and at around 2500-3000 rounds they're still good as new accuracy-wise.

YMMV.
 
Admittedly im hard on barrels. Ill rattle off a magazine or three pretty much as fast as i can set up and shoot, so ive swapped quite a few barrels now, and Ive not noticed savage barrels being any more prone to heat stringing than any of the other rifles ive owned.
Also tho, im simply asking them to hit rocks, or such while plinking. Doing culls/eradication, Ive fired my rifles hot enough that they would burn you, the kinda shooting where you keep firing as long as theres stuff to shoot at, and a reasonable chance of making a hit. But again I was simply asking the guns to put rounds on target not shoot tiny groups, or thread timber needles.

Also as Picher mentioned, shooting a gun hot takes some doing, with any of my bigger guns 3-5 rounds at least, and with my 7 it took 10 or so before the thing would string noticeably, BUT my groups would start opening up after about 5 from that hard rubber pad my abolt carried....even the 7mm hurts after a dozen or so shots right in a row.....The Abolt .300WM i just rebarreled for my buddy made me quit after 5 rounds prone, and left my right arm floppy for birds today.......
 
OH, Gun update.

So far Ive pulled the barrel, cleaned the action a little, and measured the recoil lug I need. with the barrel turned in full against the bolt the gap between the receiver and barrel shoulder is .222-225, with most of my tries being .222, so I ordered a .2285 PTG lug. Ive got Dies on order, and I am right now renting the reamer, gauges, and crowning tool.....so still looks like next weekend.

OFF with her!.....nut?
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why replace a stock recoil lug you ask? (I've got a Remington just as bad)
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mmmmm cruddy
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shilen in
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old barrel actually dosent look too bad after a cleaning. might screw it back in and see how it shoots with decent ammo at some point....NO bad Wulf, BAAAAD...dont play with any more gun parts....
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bit more work completed. I fitted the Choate stock (99.9% sure it's a Choate), and grabbed a quick weight....this will not be a light rifle, but it won't be a heavy either. probably gonna end up around 9-9.5lbs out the door depending on which scope I mount.

I forgot to grab pictures of the gun in it's new stock....buuuuut it looks pretty much the same.....

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So I wasnt able to get the reamer, and gauges till this morning (yes I ran away from work for a while). My FFL buddy can only come over on weekends, so I just went ahead and finished the job tonight since I have to get the tools back in the mail fairly quickly.
As it turned out another friend of mine came by right as i got home from work, and hung out till after the gun was completed. I managed to forget to order the T handle to turn the reamer with, so we ended up using an 8 point 3/8s socket on the end of a driver turned by my cordless drill....could i have gotten any more bubba?
To make maters more frustrating, i HAVE a 3/8th tap handle that usually lives in my tool box, but I put it in my gunparts cabinet and locked it...keys in the truck at work....yeah one of those afternoons.
Honestly Im probably capable of producing more even pressure with that hand drill, than the T handle...well see I guess lol.

Anyway, reamed the barrel in so it would JUST close on a go gauge, no go starts to drop then gives resistance. With the way ackleys are set up thats all I was looking for.
The one fired shell i could find was a noticeable crush fit. Hopefully ill have time to stop by a shop and buy a couple boxes of factory ammo to shoot this week and see how it does.
Crowned the barrel, and finished cleaning the receiver. I Still have to stamp it....just remembered.....
I also just painted it "oregano" for now, just to keep it from rusting on me.

Finished in letting the stock as well so tomorrow after work ill put everything back together and get the scope mounted.

I also forgot to get in progress pictures, tho my buddy took a video of me reaming the barrel with the hand drill....mostly as a what not to do. Ill post pictures of the completed...ish rifle tomorrow, and hopefully shoot it this week.
 
Crowned the barrel, and finished cleaning the receiver.
Have you considered lapping the barrel while you're at it? Shilens are usually pretty good as-is, but IMO this would be a perfect time to cast a lead tap and give it a careful once-over. AI can be loaded pretty hot so I'd reckon the barrel would benefit from this even more than usual. I've also experimented with MoS2 as a finishing touch but found its benefits to be marginal and even debatable.
 
It didn't even occur to me, I've never messed with lapping a new barrel before. This woulda been the perfect time to do it tho since I had to crown the thing.
At this point I don't think I'll do it, tho I still could I guess, but I'll keep in mind for the next one.
which, in all likelihood, won't be too far down the road lol.
 
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