Marlin 336 30-30 pros and cons

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I'm planning on purchasing a Marlin 336 30-30 from Wally world tomorrow. My needs:
1-Flat shooting out to 150 yards
2-Powerful enough to take hefty hogs and the once in a blue moon mountain lion
3- Quiet enough I won't blow my eardrums out when hunting
4- Easy handling and quick follow-up shots
5- Quality enough it'll be in good shape when I pass it down to my future children.

From the looks of it the Marlin fits the bill, but if I'm wrong y'all set me straight.
 
Any new one will be a "Remlin", which had some issues when Remington first took over Marlin, but have been mostly resolved. The only two things I would look for is that the stock and forearm match in color, and that the barrel is clocked correctly. If those two prerequisites are met, it should satisfy the rest of your list nicely. Also, with 150 grain bullets, if you sight it in for about 125 yards, you should be +1.5" out to 150.
 
Older ones don’t have the clunky chunky stock and fore end. The fat furniture of the new ones really deteact from their handiness. Other than that @badkarmamib covered it.
 
Their is a huge J Marlin following, but I have to say, I am disappointed in my JM Marlin

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It won't shoot cast bullets worth a hoot

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this is its best jacketed load

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six inch group at 200 yards

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it has a huge chamber, I have to grease cases first firing

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or the case stretch would severely comprise structural integrity with that much base to shoulder clearance. A greased case slides to the bolt face and the shoulders fold out. A dry case in a dry chamber sticks to the front of the chamber and the side walls have to stretch to the bolt face.

But the real problem with my Marlin is the bullet jump. After shooting 500 rounds in load development (more or less) I finally checked the distance to the throat. The maximum OAL is 2.550 or a loaded round won't eject. Guess what, the bullet has to jump 1/2 inch before it touches rifling! The rifle will never be any more accurate than it is.

I don't know what Remlin Marlin is like, and I wish some owners of Remlins would post if they can seat bullets to the lands, and eject the loaded round.

But, given that my rifle will hold the ten ring at 100 yards, and will shoot 3 MOA with its better loads

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(notice how much the point of impact changes with a grain of powder increase!, the things are as flexible as a trampoline)

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All of my loads are grossly over charge based on manual data, but my chamber is grossly over sized, and it takes more powder to get the book values. Given a better barrel, there is absolutely nothing wrong with a 30-30 Marlin and a 170 grain bullet. In my rifle ammunition around 2150 to 2200 fps produced the best accuracy, and out to 200 yards that bullet will penetrate, 30-30 bullets are specifically designed to expand at 30-30 velocities, and "it will keel". For the woods east of the Mississippi, a 30-30 is an excellent rifle. I will tell you, 50 yard shots are long shots in the woods, there is so much under brush and scrub trees, you can't see 100 yards. And the vaunted across the field 400 yards shot, once the first couple of bangs happen in deer season, the only time you see deer in the fields, is at night! The ones that survive are not stupid, they figure it out quick!
 
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Any new one will be a "Remlin", which had some issues when Remington first took over Marlin, but have been mostly resolved. The only two things I would look for is that the stock and forearm match in color, and that the barrel is clocked correctly. If those two prerequisites are met, it should satisfy the rest of your list nicely. Also, with 150 grain bullets, if you sight it in for about 125 yards, you should be +1.5" out to 150.
Could you please inform me on clocked barrels ?
 
Could you please inform me on clocked barrels ?

There have been a few instances of barrels being "clocked" in the wrong position- the sights not being at the 12 o'clock position relative to the barrel. I recently bought a new 336C in .35 Remington. I have to say it is equal to the later JM built guns, and worlds better that the early remlins. The only gripe I have is the checkering is now lasered on and is crude compared to cut checkering. Metal and wood fit and finish is very good, and the action is smooth.
 
I like my old JM version a lot. I don't really hunt with it much because longer shots tend to be the norm where I hunt, but it's a great little rifle and a lot of fun to shoot. 30-30 has plenty of snort for deer, hogs or lions. It's on the light side for elk but has dropped many over the years.
 
when you look down the barrel are the front and rear sights at the 12 o"clock position. I know this sounds like basic assembly, but during the dark time of marlin, I bought an 1894css that had the rear sight at about 11 o'clock, then they attempted to drift the sight right until it was almost falling out of the dovetail trying to get it centered on top of the barrel. Might have worked too except the front sight was at the 1 o'clock position. I returned it, the 2nd wasn't any better, and I got a refund. You might also check to make sure the screw heads aren't stripped and the wood to metal isn't gapping. But it should be fine. The 336's never had the same problems the 1894's did, and marlin has gotten a lot better.

Also, the stock design hasn't really changed. I worked on one from 1953 that had the same stock shape and dimensions as the one next to it from 2007.

You can load the hornady leverevolution ammo in your gun and stretch to 200yds in a pinch. All marlins come rough and oversprung from the factory, which detracts from the overall experience. They are easy to slick up, and a little polishing and working on the springs a little makes it a whole new gun.
 
A couple months ago I saw a bobcat on my lease about the size of the one
in the picture. Can't wait for that 336.

Edit: darn phone won't let me attach pictures
 
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Some of the older ones had fat stocks too. The ones from the 70s are the best in terms of furniture and probably everything else.
 
Criteria #1, and #2.

I like the Marlin quite a bit and the 30-30 cartridge will be sufficient. It is capable at 150, maybe 200 yards, but it isn't flat shooting. Anything beyond 50 yards and you start having to account for some bullet drop. A 308 hits harder at 600 yards than a 30-30 at 100, with very similar recoil. But for what you want to do 30-30 is fine.

Criteria #3

As to noise, anything will be loud enough that you need ear protection. But as long as you stay away from magnum cartridges or really short barrels the noise isn't too objectionable. The 30-30 will be fine.

Criteria #4

Lever actions got a reputation for being light and fast handling years ago, but in reality are on the heavy side. My Marlin 30-30's weigh more than any of my bolt rifles. They weigh more unscoped than most of my bolt guns weigh with scopes on them. When you compare one without a scope to a scoped bolt rifles they aren't bad. Add a scope and they are pretty heavy. The Winchesters tend to be about 1/2 lb lighter. But the shorter barrels and good balance when unscoped does make for a relatively easy to carry rifle.

Criteria #5.

Marlin makes a nice rifle with good walnut wood and usually very good fit and finish. They also make a budget version with cheap wood and poorly finished wood and metal. The budget rifle will likely shoot every bit as good, but it isn't something I'd be proud to give my kids and grandkids. I'd hold out for one of the "nicer" versions over the Walmart version if this is important.

In fact I'd hold out for an older used rifle. I really like the ones made in the 1970's and early 80's much better than current production. They aren't that hard to find if you look around in pawn shops, gun shows and gun stores that deal with trade in's.

Also, the stock design hasn't really changed.

Yea, they've gone from chunky to trim and now back to chunky. Some of the guns from the 50's and 60's were chunkers too, but I can't figure out a pattern. The trimmest one I own was made in 1958.

Some of mine. #1 from left is 2005 production with fat forend. #2 is 1950's with fatty forend too. #5 is a 1958 rifle with trim forend. #3, #4, and #8 are from the 70's and #10 is a late 80s rifle. #9 and #11 are Winchesters. And as you can tell I'm not a fan of the pistol grip versions. The ones with straight grips are out there. It just takes a little more effort to find them. Only the rifle on the left was bought new.

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I enjoy my Marlins like some of the others here. I have been shooting them for quite a while and have had not real problems taking game. As some others have stated they are not target rifles. They are meant to be used and hunted with. I do find the Marlins, on average, are more accurate than my Winchesters. They are also easier to scope and have an abundance of aftermarket parts available right now. I would say that you will be well served with a good 336. Some of my fondest memories of come from hunting in the brush of central TX. Most guys on our lease would stay in camp from about 10:00 AM till an hour or so before sunset. I would grab my Marlin and head out into the thick brush and still hunt. Most of my shots were less than 75 yards and my trusty 336 never let me down. Let us know how it works out.

Here are a few of mine:

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"Flat" shooting ain't part of the equation. At least not 22-250 or Creedcrap flat. I had my old ugly 336 carbine out yesterday and at 100 yards shot two targets with Remington Core Loct 170 grainers. 1 1/2" wide by 1/2" high for the first five. 2 by 2 with a flyer an inch out, so three by two final. A carbine with original made in Japan Marlin marked scope. It would do for me.
 
Look for an older Marlin. They can be found for pretty cheap in the used long gun section of most gun stores I have seen. Even models approaching 60 years old can be in remarkable shape, fitment, and finish. My Marlin 336CS was made in 1983 and I haven't seen any modern Marlins that even remotely come close in quality. You can use this website to help reduce the guess work of Marlin aging. A short hand is take 2000 minus the first 2 years of the serial number. Example 2000 minus 12xxxxxx would be made in 1988.

https://oldguns.net/sn_php/marlinlookup.php
 
It will work for the intended purpose but most modern bolt actions are lighter, more accurate, and more ergonomic.
 
Criteria #1, and #2.

I like the Marlin quite a bit and the 30-30 cartridge will be sufficient. It is capable at 150, maybe 200 yards, but it isn't flat shooting. Anything beyond 50 yards and you start having to account for some bullet drop. A 308 hits harder at 600 yards than a 30-30 at 100, with very similar recoil. But for what you want to do 30-30 is fine.

Criteria #3

As to noise, anything will be loud enough that you need ear protection. But as long as you stay away from magnum cartridges or really short barrels the noise isn't too objectionable. The 30-30 will be fine.

Criteria #4

Lever actions got a reputation for being light and fast handling years ago, but in reality are on the heavy side. My Marlin 30-30's weigh more than any of my bolt rifles. They weigh more unscoped than most of my bolt guns weigh with scopes on them. When you compare one without a scope to a scoped bolt rifles they aren't bad. Add a scope and they are pretty heavy. The Winchesters tend to be about 1/2 lb lighter. But the shorter barrels and good balance when unscoped does make for a relatively easy to carry rifle.

Criteria #5.

Marlin makes a nice rifle with good walnut wood and usually very good fit and finish. They also make a budget version with cheap wood and poorly finished wood and metal. The budget rifle will likely shoot every bit as good, but it isn't something I'd be proud to give my kids and grandkids. I'd hold out for one of the "nicer" versions over the Walmart version if this is important.

In fact I'd hold out for an older used rifle. I really like the ones made in the 1970's and early 80's much better than current production. They aren't that hard to find if you look around in pawn shops, gun shows and gun stores that deal with trade in's.



Yea, they've gone from chunky to trim and now back to chunky. Some of the guns from the 50's and 60's were chunkers too, but I can't figure out a pattern. The trimmest one I own was made in 1958.

Some of mine. #1 from left is 2005 production with fat forend. #2 is 1950's with fatty forend too. #5 is a 1958 rifle with trim forend. #3, #4, and #8 are from the 70's and #10 is a late 80s rifle. #9 and #11 are Winchesters. And as you can tell I'm not a fan of the pistol grip versions. The ones with straight grips are out there. It just takes a little more effort to find them. Only the rifle on the left was bought new.

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HEY, that one on the Right isn't a Marlin! I spy a wincherster hiding in there too! But seriously, what a lovely collection. I only have 4 in my safe at the moment, and one isn't mine...... Do you have a 35 remington in there? I'd love one in 35.
 
"Flat" shooting ain't part of the equation. At least not 22-250 or Creedcrap flat. I had my old ugly 336 carbine out yesterday and at 100 yards shot two targets with Remington Core Loct 170 grainers. 1 1/2" wide by 1/2" high for the first five. 2 by 2 with a flyer an inch out, so three by two final. A carbine with original made in Japan Marlin marked scope. It would do for me.
This thing is from the fifties and I bought it from the back room of a dealer to save it from auction for $108. NOT a Remlin. All my Marlins are pre-green.
 
"Flat" shooting ain't part of the equation. At least not 22-250 or Creedcrap flat. I had my old ugly 336 carbine out yesterday and at 100 yards shot two targets with Remington Core Loct 170 grainers. 1 1/2" wide by 1/2" high for the first five. 2 by 2 with a flyer an inch out, so three by two final. A carbine with original made in Japan Marlin marked scope. It would do for me.
When I say flat shooting I mean not dropping 8+ inches at 150 yards.
 
Many years ago I bought my brother a 336 just for piggy poking, it's a right handy rifle. Slamfire mentioned some mediocre accuracy he got from his, and my initial handloads for it weren't all that accurate, but I thought they were fine for sub-100yd hunting. Then I switched bullets... and the accuracy almost doubled. Although I prefer 170grn bullets in the .30-30, I tried some 150's and the rifle did NOT like them. So you may have to 'hunt' a little for a load it likes, assuming you are going to handload... or even a factory load.

As far as the newer 'Marlin' rifles... make sure you give it a good going over. I understand fit and finish has improved, but ANY rifle from ANY manufacturer can have some rough spots... or be a complete lemon.

I bought a 336 for myself a few years ago... a very nice JM from the '50's. It wasn't a bad rifle, but then I bought a Savage 99... and the Marlin went up on the block the next day.
 
Many years ago I bought my brother a 336 just for piggy poking, it's a right handy rifle. Slamfire mentioned some mediocre accuracy he got from his, and my initial handloads for it weren't all that accurate, but I thought they were fine for sub-100yd hunting. Then I switched bullets... and the accuracy almost doubled. Although I prefer 170grn bullets in the .30-30, I tried some 150's and the rifle did NOT like them. So you may have to 'hunt' a little for a load it likes, assuming you are going to handload... or even a factory load.

As far as the newer 'Marlin' rifles... make sure you give it a good going over. I understand fit and finish has improved, but ANY rifle from ANY manufacturer can have some rough spots... or be a complete lemon.

I bought a 336 for myself a few years ago... a very nice JM from the '50's. It wasn't a bad rifle, but then I bought a Savage 99... and the Marlin went up on the block the next day.
Concerning lemons, I once bought a savage axis XP 1 in 308 that couldn't shoot worth a darn.
I put it in a gun vice, used a bore Lazer to line up the barrel and a paper plate 20 yards away. Still in vice in same spot I then ran 150 and 180 grain core-lokts through it and none of em hit the plate.
 
I like the Model 94s for 30-30 and the Marlins for 45-70. IMO, the 336 frame is a little large and heavy for 30-30s, but perfect for the bigger round.
 
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