Hornady shell plate issue

Status
Not open for further replies.
Not sure about Walkalong but all my shell plates worked fine other than the #32 one but I couldn’t go load more than 50 rounds before the case retainer spring would kink
I used to get some kinked springs, then none for a very long time, it may very well have coincided with all the shell plate work. I usually notice these sort of things, might have missed that.
 
A Dremel and a steady hand/good eye, then sandpaper to finish.

I have polished all of my shell plates where the cases go. On many I broke the sharp edge and then polished, made a big difference.

I also polished all of my shell plates where the spring rides around and case slots. It has made a huge difference in how long before I get a kink in it.

I had not thought about polishing and breaking the sharp edges but the only shell plate I have trouble with is the 45 Colt. This might be a good project to do on all my shell plates now that Formula One racing is back on TV.

My case spring has more kinks than Carter has liver pills and it still functions fine. It may affect operation of 45 Colt though. It is actually still the original one after 11 years (something like 40,000 to 50,000 cartridges). It has gotten to the point that I'm seeing how long it actually lasts.:)

I do have spares on hand for when it does finally break.
 
Some of you may already know this and are using them. I found a post on Brian Enos’s site by a guy who has been doing this for many years on Hornady presses he has. I tried it and didn’t work very well until I found out I had the wrong ones and didn’t lube them properly to work on my LNL. I tried adjusting pawls and would get it working for one caliber but not another.
I take a very small amount of Hornady Unique case lube on finger and wipe o-ring through fingers. One benefit is absolutely no case shaking and powder spills when loading small cases with lots of powder like 9mm.
You must use a lanolin not any oil.
The ones I had gotten I found out later were a half a mm thicker so they didn’t work as well. I couldn’t find the ones in the picture but the ones I did find some the same. The ones in picture are the ones that the guy has used for years.
I’m still using a case spring since polishing my shell plates as I want to see just how long it will go without kinking. But use the o-ring when loading 9mm to prevent any powder from shaking out.

699D898B-0EA8-4334-940D-FD52763D67CF.png
 
I had not thought about polishing and breaking the sharp edges but the only shell plate I have trouble with is the 45 Colt. This might be a good project to do on all my shell plates now that Formula One racing is back on TV.

My case spring has more kinks than Carter has liver pills and it still functions fine. It may affect operation of 45 Colt though. It is actually still the original one after 11 years (something like 40,000 to 50,000 cartridges). It has gotten to the point that I'm seeing how long it actually lasts.:)

I do have spares on hand for when it does finally break.

I don’t know if you use a case feeder but I do and if spring gets any kink other than a very small one cases won’t feed properly. It wasn’t a problem before I got a case feeder as I had springs that had kinks in every inch of them.
 
I used to get some kinked springs, then none for a very long time, it may very well have coincided with all the shell plate work. I usually notice these sort of things, might have missed that.

It did for me. And I also usually notice things like this but seeing as I’ve had that #32 shell plate since last year and just noticed this a little while ago when I polished all the plates I’m thinking these golden years suck.
 
Last edited:
Some of you may already know this and are using them. I found a post on Brian Enos’s site by a guy who has been doing this for many years on Hornady presses he has. I tried it and didn’t work very well until I found out I had the wrong ones and didn’t lube them properly to work on my LNL. I tried adjusting pawls and would get it working for one caliber but not another.
I take a very small amount of Hornady Unique case lube on finger and wipe o-ring through fingers. One benefit is absolutely no case shaking and powder spills when loading small cases with lots of powder like 9mm.
You must use a lanolin not any oil.
The ones I had gotten I found out later were a half a mm thicker so they didn’t work as well. I couldn’t find the ones in the picture but the ones I did find some the same. The ones in picture are the ones that the guy has used for years.
I’m still using a case spring since polishing my shell plates as I want to see just how long it will go without kinking. But use the o-ring when loading 9mm to prevent any powder from shaking out.

View attachment 928681

https://forums.brianenos.com/topic/283615-hornady-lnl-ap-powder-jump-fix/
 
I don’t know if you use a case feeder but I do and if spring gets any kink other than a very small one cases won’t feed properly. It wasn’t a problem before I got a case feeder as I had springs that had kinks in every inch of them.

I do not use a case feeder. I guess that is why I do not have problems with the spring.
 
I do not use a case feeder. I guess that is why I do not have problems with the spring.

All this talk has me rethinking my ProJector. I don't get spring kinks like you LNL guys do... I'm still running the original spring 25+ years later, but it's also a bigger spring. You CAN hear the spring 'Slinky'ing' along when the plate rotates, however, and I wonder if a little buff job might help things along. With the ProJector, shellplate tension is adjustable... I don't think it is on the LNL, and that has a LOT to do with how smooth it operates.
 
If you do, I'll swap you some LNL springs... I bought a few of them when I found out Hornady didn't have replacement PJ springs.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top