Flask update and a question.

It looks as if the shaft connecting the lever with the plate is part of the lever casting. If so the plate is pressed on to the shaft with the shaft braded enough to hold it in place. Working with a dremel or small file you would need to remove enough metal from the end of the shaft to let the shaft be pressed or driven back through the plate. To put it back together would require possibly staking it with a punch or the use of an adhesive. If youre good possibly a bit of solder. Just my thoughts. Good luck.

If it holds the powder in, and the plate moves freely, just use it as in and call it a success. Looks good!

That flask was meant for use with the early U.S. rifles, not revolvers. This was in the days when rifles were loaded with loose powder and ball, and not paper cartridges. (Muskets, on the other hand, were loaded with paper cartridges during that time period.) The following picture is of a reproduction shoulder carry for the flask and bullet pouch, circa 1839. The last weapon for which this setup would have been used was the M1841 "Mississippi" rifle. By the time of the M1855 rifle and the M1863 "Zouave" rifle, paper cartridges would have been used exclusively. Therefore it is wrong to call this a "Zouave" flask.

Birchwood Casey makes a liquid product, "Blue and Rust Remover". I works instantly on ferrous metals, don't know how it would work if the little valve plate is brass. You could daub a bit on with a Q-Tip and see how it works. It works as advertised on blued guns so keep it away from any other blued surfaces.

Otherwise, for removing rust scale, I use 4/0 steel wool soaked in oil. You could wrap a bit of steel wool on a Q-Tip and see how that works.

If you find the valve no longer seals the powder reliably, then you have a wonderful family heirloom to admire. Sometimes it happens.

The first thing that needs to be done is to replace the missing valve spring. That shouldn't be too difficult.

I would leave the little spots of rust on the cutoff plate alone. Not visible anyway.

The flask came out really nice.
It's not traditional but I would consider black nylon webbing strap, something that wouldn't attract moisture if stored in contact with the brass.
It comes in different widths. --->>> https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_fr...leDesc=0&_odkw=black+nylon+star+raw&_osacat=0

^^^ That was my first thought. Not traditional but plays better with brass than leather.

DocCharlie said:

What do you guys use for a strap on the flask? I was thinking of a leather shoelace type of sling for it.

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Depends on the use you plan to make for the flask. The "correct" one is as illustrated in my picture, if, for example, you were to use it in a Mexican War reenactment.

I got it from S&S Firearms, who may or may not still carry it. Anyway, I'm not too happy with the authenticity, since the keepers are sewn wrong, and that's not real buff leather for the sling (they used dyed harness leather, rough side out). (The period before 1855 was the "white buff era" for belts and baldrics.)

AlexanderA said:

That flask was meant for use with the early U.S. rifles, not revolvers.

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This style flask is termed the "Peace Flask" (Ames, 1838) referring to the hands grasped in friendship on the embossing.
If you wish to use it with a revolver, you may need a replacement nozzle for the correct charge as a rifle would typically use more powder than a pistol. The listing below terms it "Zouave" but, as pointed out above, it pre dates that musket style.
https://possibleshop.com/p-g-flask.html

Dixie Gun Works has replacement tops if you can't get the valve working:
Flasks, Horns & Spouts (dixiegunworks.com)