BEST WAY TO CLEAN POWDER RESIDUE OFF STAINLESS REVOLVER

Are you referring to the front of the cylinder especially? I also like to keep that clean. I found that lead remover cloth usually works well. Before I discovered that, I once took the cylinder off my GP100 and soaked overnight in Hoppes solvent, but that was a bit of a pain to do.

Not sure it's the best and I look forward to what others have to say, but:

I use Hoppe's #9 and a bronze brush.

I've never used it, but I've been happy with other SLIP 2000 products, and if I needed such a product, I'd give Carbon Killer a try.

http://www.slip2000.com/slip2000_carbon_killer.php

When I was concerned about said issue I used Mother's Mag polish to get it off. Over time, I got lazier about it and just let it go as one will spend a fair amount of time removing it with no gain.

Bittereinder said:

Are you referring to the front of the cylinder especially? I also like to keep that clean. I found that lead remover cloth usually works well. Before I discovered that, I once took the cylinder off my GP100 and soaked overnight in Hoppes solvent, but that was a bit of a pain to do.

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Very good on Stainless, but will remove bluing on blued guns....

Anybody used a pencil eraser?

I have never bothered as it seemed like a lot of effort for something that will come back after then next range session.

mrt949 said:

I have 2 sp101 would like to clean the carbon residue

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Well...

After you DO get'em clean...?

Wipe'em down w/ a film of marine grease afterward, before you shoot'em again.

Then you can clean it off w/ a paper towel.




GR

Just be careful using any type of abrasive like Flitz or similar n\because then you're messing with the cylinder gap spacing

unclenunzie said:

Very good on Stainless, but will remove bluing on blued guns....

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I was picturing the OP's SP101 as stainless, but good point.

I wipe on Hoppes #9 with a rag and let it sit a few minutes, then wipe the fouling off. May have to repeat the process, but it works great on stainless.

Waste. Of. Time.

George P said:

Just be careful using any type of abrasive like Flitz or similar n\because then you're messing with the cylinder gap spacing

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Man, you must use a lot of Flitz. . .

I don't think I'll live long enough to polish the cylinder gap open appreciably with Flitz, 6 days a week and thrice on Sunday.

Hoppes #9. Soak and brush and wipe off. Not very difficult. I use nylon brushes.

Soak in your favorite cleaner, use a green 3M Scotchbrite pad. I’d be more worried about carbon closing the gap than removing too much steel.

I don't like rings at the end of the cylinder, it must be obsessive compulsive behavior. If it won't come off with a brass bristle brush, I have taken the cylinder off, then gone to the sink, and used an old toothbrush and soft scrub. That works great. Just wash the cylinder in hot soapy water at the end, shake, blow, wipe all the water, and stainless cylinders will look new!

And do re oil the ejector rod.

Saint Softscrub should be revered and commemorated for his beneficence to mankind.

Get a can of Eagle One, "NEVR-DULL"
Wipes off effortlessly, no elbow grease needed.

https://www.amazon.com/Birchwood-Casey-Remover-Polishing-6-Inch/dp/B07VCGWP93

This works pretty good on stainless if you're set on cleaning a stainless revolver.

mrt949 said:

LOOKS LIKE YOU WAS SHOOTING BLACK POWDER

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Hoppes #9 will get it if Ballistol can't

edwardware said:

Man, you must use a lot of Flitz. . .

I don't think I'll live long enough to polish the cylinder gap open appreciably with Flitz, 6 days a week and thrice on Sunday.

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ANY metal abrasive will do that; and BTW, it really doesn't take much when you measure gaps in .001 increments; Americans always like to think more is better