I have a ton of Speer Nickel 5.56 cases. I began prepping and loading some last night and the primer pockets were crimped so I used an RCBS crimp cutter and they were still very hard to seat and it seemed like the primers wouldnt seat deep enough. Should I get a primer pocket uniformer? I can seat them flush with the headstamp but not below it.
Tight Primer pocket-Even after swage
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Blue68f100
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The swager should work without any problems if it was adjusted right. A swager is all I use. I sort by head stamp since all mfg vary a little.
Charlie98
Member
If your primer is seating flush, that's deep enough... if you have to fight to get it there, you have a problem.
I used to use a swage die to knock out the primer crimp... I didn't have much luck with it. Adjusted where I wouldn't pretzel the rim, then it wouldn't take enough of the crimp out. I went to a powered case prep center... I can cut the crimp out and uniform the primer pocket in one step.
I used to use a swage die to knock out the primer crimp... I didn't have much luck with it. Adjusted where I wouldn't pretzel the rim, then it wouldn't take enough of the crimp out. I went to a powered case prep center... I can cut the crimp out and uniform the primer pocket in one step.
NMexJim
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A swage tool will work better than a cutter in my experience.
milboltnut
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I have tight pockets after using RCBS swager... one guy mentioned uses lube and it works great. Cutting the crimp works better, but I would say not all brass is made equal. Springback. I overcome a case here and there, with a stronger priming system. RCBS auto primer, or a press ram prime by Lee. No danger, just a little more to seat it.
edwardware
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You should count your blessings. . . they'll last a long time if they start that tight.
Primer brand matters: in LRP brands vary from too loose to shoot, to snug (in the same brass). In my experience, the range is slightly smaller in SRP, but not much.
Tool matters: what seater are you using?
I suggest NOT reaming further. Your interference is low in the pocket, or the pocket floor. More reaming will simply over-chamfer the mouth. Maybe you can fix it with a uniformer, but maybe not.
Primer brand matters: in LRP brands vary from too loose to shoot, to snug (in the same brass). In my experience, the range is slightly smaller in SRP, but not much.
Tool matters: what seater are you using?
I suggest NOT reaming further. Your interference is low in the pocket, or the pocket floor. More reaming will simply over-chamfer the mouth. Maybe you can fix it with a uniformer, but maybe not.
milboltnut
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A reamer is not gonna increase the diameter of the pocket... over chamfer the pocket mouth ? No big deal. It's the diameter of the pocket that isn't effected that counts. I've used RCBS military crimp remover, no issues. Also Lyman reamers, and RCBS reamer. The best was the heavy headed RCBS military crimp remover.
edwardware
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Correct.
That's what the reamer will do, and it is a big deal if you want to keep using your bolt. It's easy to add enough chamfer that primers will pierce with mid-pressure loads. You'll have ruined the brass and damaged the bolt face.
earplug
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#2 Phillips head screw bit spun in a drill press. Sharpening the flutes works better.
milboltnut
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Kinda hasty in say over chamfer is ok... you got a good point there, gas blow by, Ed. Thank You.
milboltnut
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and adjust the stop on your drill press.... and have a true chuck.
GHinNH
Member
Swage,. The only other thing is sometimes it leaves a sharp corner from moving the brass out of the way and the primers will hook it. So I have to hit them on the chamfer tool lightly to knock the corner off.
I am using the RCBS cutter in a case prep tool.
Using a lee turret to seat. It actually stops the primer and takes a lot of force to seat.
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