Polish feed ramp?

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ammo made in Indonesia ... fmj. It worked perfect, no problems. The problems started with the next box of Armscor fmj. and Continued with Winchester fmj and hollow point.

Guess I will run a couple boxes Federal ammo through it and see how it goes. If no go I will return to maker.
If problem with different brand/type of ammunition then I would suspect the pistol.

If problem only with same ammunition, then I would suspect the ammunition.
 
It returns to full battery when pointed up. When a round is dropped into the chamber it fully enters. After dropping in I push on it to make sure it's fully seated and it is. But when I turn the barrel up it will not fall out on its on. But again it's fully seated and I see/feel no resistance to it entering the chamber. When I bought the gun I also bought a box of ammo made in Indonesia or somewhere "foreign country" from the local lgs, fmj. It worked perfect, no problems. The problems started with the next box of Armscor fmj. and Continued with Winchester fmj and hollow point.
Guess I will run a couple boxes Federal ammo through it and see how it goes. If no go I will return to maker. I really hate doing that.

That sounds like it's got short leads.
 
After dropping in I push on it to make sure it's fully seated and it is. But when I turn the barrel up it will not fall out on its on.
In my post above (https://www.thehighroad.org/index.php?threads/polish-feed-ramp.893631/#post-12030473) I stated that you should push the cartridge forward hard while rotating it. If it wouldn't rotate easily that means a finish reamer needs to be run through the chamber. This will insure the diameter of the chamber is correct and it will lengthen the leade (freebore).

Send it back to the manufacturer, describe the results of your plunk test, and ask them to run a finish reamer through the chamber.
 
Now I find myself a need to polish a feed ramp.
Like a hole in the head.
The problem is. . . Someone suggested polishing the feed ramp.
That's not a reason.
Actually my problem is when fired the slide sometimes fails to return to full battery. It likes about 1/4 inch or less. It will not fire untill it fully returns. A light tap on the butt of the slide will cause it to fully return.
Your problem has exactly nothing to do with the feed ramp.

There are whole chapters in dense reference books about feeding geometry. . . and no reason to imagine you can improve anything by bobbing about in there with equal parts ignorance and lapping compound.

Based on your description, it sounds like an ammunition issue, or maybe an overly sprung extractor. There are chapters on those topics too.

Start with good pictures of the problem and we'll help.
 
Actually my problem is when fired… It likes about 1/4 inch or less.

That makes it not a feed ram problem as even the shortest round will already be on its way before the slide is that close to closing.

It returns to full battery when pointed up.

Changing the angle of the pistol allows it to function properly?

When a round is dropped into the chamber it fully enters. After dropping in I push on it to make sure it's fully seated and it is. But when I turn the barrel up it will not fall out on its on.…If no go I will return to maker. I really hate doing that.

Being dirty could cause a round to get stuck. One thing is for sure though, the only thing that you would hate more than returning it to the manufacturer to fix it, would be for you to make an attempt to fix it that fails, then returning it and having the manufacturer refuse to mess with it after your alterations.
 
It returns to full battery when pointed up.

Changing the angle of the pistol allows it to function properly?
If this is true, the failure-to-return-to-battery may well be due to the nose of the bullet making hard contact with the barrel and pushing it forward and up causing it to bind with the slide lugs.

The pistol has multiple problems. Send that thing back to the manufacturer now.
 
Might I suggest the simplest of remedies. What I consider clean is often not really clean. Although I can't get any more residue on a patch doesnt mean I removed all of the fouling in the chamber. Especially in a tiny 90 degree recess that the round headspaces on.

From the decription of the progression of the problem from non existent when new to often and the observation that a chambered round won't fall out under gravity it sounds like fouling has built up someplace inside the chamber that hasn't been removed or only partially removed.

Agressive cleaning of the chamber might solve or at least identify the problem. Agressive does not necessarily mean the use of power tools. I'll let the gunsmiths here define agressive cleaning of the chamber.

Not a gunsmith.
 
@tws3b2 Imagine landing in an engine tuning forum, explaining that your friend said you should polish the cylinder walls in your new car, and asking for help picking which tool to use. . .

That's why the reactions have been colorful.
 
Well, back to the range with the Taurus G3c.
When I first bought my G3c I also bought 50 rounds of 115 gr. Fmj. Brand name I forget. It was from a foreign country. But I don't remember the country or brand. Anyway, that box of ammo worked perfect in my new G3C. No fails on the first trip to the range.
Second trip to range. With a box of Winchester fmj and a box of Winchester hollow point. A couple fail to return to full battery.
Third trip. 100 rounds of Armscor 115 gr. Fmj. More fails to return to full battery. Maybe about one fail per mag. Pretty much let down by the g3c .
I had found a couple boxes Federal 115 gr. Fmj at Dunham's. A week later they had some Remington 115 gr and 147 gr. Fmj. With that and one mag of Armscor 115 gr. Forth trip to the range.
One fail to return to full battery with the Armscor.
Several mag of Federal and several mags Remington 115 and 147 gr. No, None, No fails what so ever. Can I go back to the store and get more Federal and Remington ammo???? No, they are out again.
Seem my g3c is a little ammo sensitive.
Moral of my story?
I sure wish I could go to the store and get the Brand and type of ammo I want, when I want and a halfway decent price.
If this BS doesn't end soon I think I'm going to give up shooting and take up ping-pong or something.
 
So what makes a gun ammo sensitive? Is it usually a single reason or is there more to it?
Like I say. I can drop a 115 gr. Armscor Fmj into the chamber. Push on it a little. I can't feel it push in more. It takes a little effort to pull it out. Same with Winchester.
Federal take a little less to pull it out. Remington falls out with no help.
With Armscor and Winchester the gun sometimes fail to return to full battery. Likes about a quarter inch or less. No other fails at all.
With Remington, Federal and another brand no fails whatever.
I've closely inspected the feed ramp and chamber. Seems smooth as a babies bottom no burrs whatever.
Cleaned to a shine and well oiled.
I was thinking of taking a wood dowel with Emery cloth on one end and kind of ream out the chamber just a tiny bit.
 
The problem is a few times the slide failed to return to full battery. Liking about 1/4 inch or so.

That is not the feed ramp.

I think it had a stuck steel case in it. And the former owner took a screwdriver to it.

A gouged and burred chamber might well be the problem.
I would let the warranty clerk at Taurus figure it out. A mass production company like that will probably just throw the barrel away and put in a new one.
A good gunsmith would run in a chamber reamer, then polish. But he won't do it for free. I have a scored chamber from split cases done that way and it now works well.
 
So what makes a gun ammo sensitive?
It's a mismatch between some facet of the pistol's geometry and the ammo's geometry.

Is it usually a single reason or is there more to it?
Depends on the specific malfunction.

Like I say. I can drop a 115 gr. Armscor Fmj into the chamber. Push on it a little. I can't feel it push in more. It takes a little effort to pull it out. Same with Winchester. Federal take a little less to pull it out.
The mismatch here is between the the geometry of the pistol's chamber and the shape and length of the bullet. Specifically, the bullet is jamming into the lands and grooves of the barrel's rifling which should not happen.

From Post #30: The fix is to lengthen the leade (freebore) of the barrel. You should be able to push the cartridge as hard as you can into the barrel and while maintaining that force rotate the cartridge with ease. What's supposed to happen is the brass case mouth and the steel chamber ledge are forced into solid contact while the bullet is not touching the rifling. The brass and the steel will easily slide against one another. The cartridge should then drop easily out of the chamber.

With Armscor and Winchester the gun sometimes fail to return to full battery. Likes about a quarter inch or less.
Multiple possibilities but could be due to the short barrel leade (freebore).

With Remington, Federal and another brand no fails whatever.
The geometry of those ammo brands are compatible with the geometry of your pistol's barrel.

I was thinking of taking a wood dowel with Emery cloth on one end and kind of ream out the chamber just a tiny bit.
It would most likely be wasted effort with the risk of screwing something up. There is only one way to lengthen the barrel leade. Run a finish reamer into the barrel. This is not something for a novice to try as the risk for a major screw up is very high. This is gunsmith stuff.
 
A problem with using a dremel for this application is that the tool rotates. Ideally the polishing action should be in the same direction that the cartridge will travel from the mag to the chamber. Thus, the polishing strokes should be "longitudinal", in line with the barrel/chamber. If a "sandpaper" drum rotary tool is used it could even make the situation worse. Plus, sandpaper isn't a fine-enough grit. I remember (from about 40 years ago) seeing advice in using a handheld abrasive-covered rod in a fore-and-aft action to polish a feed ramp.
 
Whenever I hear "I'm not a gunsmith, but" then Dremel Tool, then fed ramp in the same sentence I'm pretty sure the result is not going to be good. Try different ammunition. If the problem persists it's gunsmith or back to the factory.
 
Actually my problem is when fired the slide sometimes fails to return to full battery. It likes about 1/4 inch or less. It will not fire untill it fully returns. A light tap on the butt of the slide will cause it to fully return. It's a new gun....
.
This screams extractor problem. the Browning short recoil system uses the extractor to slow the return to battery. If the extractor is binding or overtight, it will slow it too much.
This is the most common malfunction of the 1911, and often leads to "polish the ramp" and "tension the extractor" -while the second one is true, the how-to is usually wrong.
Ammo can make a difference, the rim area where the extractor grabs changes. Ammo with more power will usually resist this type of malfunction more easily. A really tight grip can help.

I would recommend clearing the extractor channel really well, if you have any DUMMY rounds, remove the extractor and see if the problem disappears entirely.

EDIT TO ADD: I emphasize DUMMY rounds because with the extractor removed, you can easily leave a live round in the chamber, with a functioning pistol that does not eject that live round when is should!
 
Whenever I hear "I'm not a gunsmith, but" then Dremel Tool, then fed ramp in the same sentence I'm pretty sure the result is not going to be good. Try different ammunition. If the problem persists it's gunsmith or back to the factory.

Not all gunsmiths are masters with a Dremel either. When I cringe is when I read about someone "polishing" their trigger parts with one and I agree that it is very easy to ruin something with a Dremel if you don't have experience with it but some of us can actually use one and not destroy what we are working on.
 
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