Question on action screw torque order on new FN Winchester Model 70

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Strife21

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I know the manual suggests the torque should be 35 inch pounds on the two action screws.

However is their a proper cadence of which screw to tighten first (muzzle end vs butt end).

I have seen mixed info some say tighten the front first all the way to specified torque some say tighten the rear first all the way to specified torque and some says start with one or the other and gradually go in increments back and forth.

The alternate between the two screws in gradual increments sounds most logical to me but which screw do you start with if that is even the case?

just to note their is no middle screw on these newer model 70’s. Mine was made in 2020
 
I always snug up both screws so the action doesn't move easily in the stock. The front screw gets fully tightened 1st, then the rear screw. If there is a middle screw it's only purpose is to hold the trigger guard in place and it doesn't need to be very tight.
 
jmr40 said:
I always snug up both screws so the action doesn't move easily in the stock. The front screw gets fully tightened 1st, then the rear screw. If there is a middle screw it's only purpose is to hold the trigger guard in place and it doesn't need to be very tight.
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with a floated barrel, correct?
 
Dave DeLaurant said:
Question: does this stock have metal bushings or bedding pillars for the front and rear screws?
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that I don’t know as I have not had them off. However I have not read anything of these particular fn models having pillars.
 
Strife21 said:
that I don’t know as I have not had them off. However I have not read anything of these particular fn models having pillars.
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I do the same thing jmr recommends: start the threads on both front and back screws, then fully torque the front first.

At some point in the distant past, I either read or was told to do it this way and it's become a habit.

With properly bedded pillars, the action is seated metal-to-metal within the stock and the tightening order of the screws is probably less important.
 
I looked it up this a wooden stock and not pillared. It is bedded however it’s questionable how good of a job FN did with the bedding.
 
So the reasoning behind this question was I having unsatisfactory grouping, basically with most ammo including Hornady Match ammo in my 30-06 model 70 super grade, I am getting a couple shots that group really nice, then all of a sudden the shots move to a different area and then will hit near that area a couple times before moving back to the original location. Most groups are 2.5inches to 3inches apart after 3-4 shots. So I wanted to see if the bolts were maybe over or under torqued. Just wasn't sure the correct sequence of tightening them back up.

I am letting the barrel cool before taking subsequent shots so I don't think that is the issue. I have tried 6 different types of ammo thus far. I am shooting off the Rock BR Competiton benchrest and a rear bag to take variables out of play. The using a Leupold VX-5HD scope and all mounts screws are torqued to spec and not loosening up. The barrel each range trip has been fully cleaned and all traces of copper removed. Shot about 60 rounds of varying ammo on each visit with same results.

The only one I can get a decent group with is norma whitetail and even that is 1.5 to 1.75 inches apart.
 
I usually start both screws and snug them a little past finger tight.Then I bump the butt on the carpet floor to settle the action back.After that I torque the screws to 40 inch pounds if it's a wood stock without pillars.Winchesters of the new variety shoot well for sporter barrel rifles,but 1.5 inches with factory ammo may be about its best.I also free float the barrel when I work on one of them.I always torque the front screw first.
 
WVRJ said:
I usually start both screws and snug them a little past finger tight.Then I bump the butt on the carpet floor to settle the action back.After that I torque the screws to 40 inch pounds if it's a wood stock without pillars.Winchesters of the new variety shoot well for sporter barrel rifles,but 1.5 inches with factory ammo may be about its best.I also free float the barrel when I work on one of them.I always torque the front screw first.
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This is a new model 70 the barrel is already free floated from the factory. Also I think the 30-06 super grade has a heavier barrel then the sporter barrel. It’s a 24 inch barrel and it seem thick.
 
That 100% sounds like a bedding/non concentric crown issue. Which the new M-70’s are infamous for both. I’ll bet you a buck that after a pro bedding job it’ll straighten up and while your at it have your crown recut.
 
WVRJ said:
I usually start both screws and snug them a little past finger tight.Then I bump the butt on the carpet floor to settle the action back.After that I torque the screws to 40 inch pounds if it's a wood stock without pillars.Winchesters of the new variety shoot well for sporter barrel rifles,but 1.5 inches with factory ammo may be about its best.I also free float the barrel when I work on one of them.I always torque the front screw first.
Click to expand...

Hey so 40 inch pounds wont compress or crush the wood, will it? The stock is bedded but without pillars. I just don't want to damage anything.
 
I would start at 30 or 32 lbs , and go up 2 lbs at a time and see if it has a sweet spot , up to 45 lbs . if that doesn't improve things , re-crown and pillar bed. I haven't had this problem with my Winchester's , but with C.Z. 527's it has made a huge difference . Like from 2 inch down to 5/8 inch groups .
 
So it seems it was more me then the gun. Guess I didn’t have a consistent cheek weld. The last couple days at the range i was getting 1inch and 1.25 inch groups with the Norma Whitetail 150gr. And I got a 3/4in group with Federal Powershok 150gr. The rifle seems to despise Remington core-Lokt PSP 180gr. It’s all over the place.

I tried 40 inch pounds on the screws and did t see any kind of difference so just went back to 35inch pounds on the action screws.
 
When I get "fliers" like you described, my first inkling is "was it something that I did?" It doesn't take much to throw one.

I think action screw torque definitely can affect accuracy and has a sweet spot where it shoots best. I like to tighten the front screw more than the rear to minimize stressing the action.

PS, that's some good shooting. Sounds like a great rifle!
 
The last few Winchesters I've worked on were sort of glass bedded from the factory.They used a fairly soft epoxy around the lug and at the tang.It sounds like you're getting it going,and if it will shoot like that,trying to make it better is like fixing something that ain't broke.
 
Front action screw first, gorilla tight.

Rear action screw next, chimpanzee tight.

Middle magazine screw last, organ grinder monkey tight.
 
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