Springfield 1911 extractor

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Bennj

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Good afternoon,
I have a Springfield Defender 1911 45 ACP. I have been unable to remove the extractor. It field strips easy enough and I have had the firing pin and spring out with no problem. According to what I have seen/read it should pull right out. Any chance it's pinned or glued in, or am I just not putting enough oomph into pulling it out? Thanks in advance for any info.
Ben
 
There is usually a bend in a 1911 extractor, so it can reach the rim of the cartridge. The 9mm extractors usually have more bend than the .45 Auto one's, but those in .45 Auto also typically have a bend. The extractor tunnel is straight, so the bend in the extractor also helps lock it in place.

There are extractor removal tools available if you need help.

Dawson Precision Extractor Removal Tool https://dawsonprecision.com/dawson-precision-1911-extractor-removal-tool/

Brownell's Extractor Removal Tool https://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-...ols/1911-extractor-removal-tool-prod1004.aspx

I haven't had a problem with mine, but the channel may be packed with shooting residue, and it may need a shot of Ballistol, or BreakFree, or whatever your choice of lube/cleaner, down the extractor channel to loosen it up.
 
Thank you for the quick reply JTQ. It only has about 450 rounds through it. I'm just curious if it's common to be that snug and if I should use more force. I'll check out the removal tools you referenced.
 
Those in 9mm are usually pretty snug, but the .45 Auto ones, not usually.

The Brownell's tool shows it being used in a video under the "Learn" section above the picture.

I've heard nothing but good things about the Dawson tool. It pushes the hook away from centerline and makes removal easier.
 
Some can be tighter than others. I seam to use a small screw driver and pry it up from the FP stop slot. May need to flex the extractor hook to clear the breach face at the same time. 9mm extractors can be a chore to get out, depending on how much tension they have. You always have to move the hook to clear the breach face.
 
So I push the hook against the slide to take some of the flex out of it while prying the other end at the FP stop slot, or get the extractor tool. Thanks for the suggestions guys.
 
That is an excellent tutorial indeed! I remember reading it some time ago, and used the shake test. My 1911 seems to extract fine. I also checked the case bases (I've been saving my brass) and don't see the notch. Allentown is about 1 1/2 hrs. away from me. Thanks for the reminder.
 
I know some smiths that will use the tip of the firing pin to wedge out the extractor from the pin stop. But I don't like using the FP as a tool. A punch works just as well. Pushing on the extractor from inside the case mouth helps too.
 
I use a small punch to “hook” the pt and pull the extractor out. The same punch I use to depress the firing pin to remove the firing pin plate.
 
Thanks, I'm going to try prying it out with a punch, while pushing in the hook at the same time. Since I don't have three hands I'll put the slide in a padded vice.
 
Little late, sorry… but I agree with the others. In most 1911’s I’ve built and/or worked on, the extractor was tight. And yes, it should be tighter in 9mm pieces. The bend acts as a compression device, mechanically locking it in place. So a little more force and it will come free.
 
Better late than never, especially when it's more good advice. I won't be getting to it for a few weeks, but will post the results. Thanks
 
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