Weigh Handgun Bullets for Accuracy?

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@Byla, welcome to THR!

but I wonder if it is worth the time.
It’s your time, methinks only you can answer that. Personally I don’t weigh bullets other than a QC check when I get them in. I need to make a PF, so the weight is pretty important for that but I don’t believe separating based on weight would improve my score. The diameter is also pretty important. If I shot bullseye or some precision game, it might be a different answer. The other factor is the head above the shoulders. There’s a significant mental aspect of our game, if you think it helps, it probable does.

For factory bought, quality competition bullets, or properly cast bullets, weight will not be the reason you send one outside of a group.
Just curious what you believe will ungroup a group? I’m more interested if it’s a reloading aspect, if it’s the CBLF, I know and unfortunately practice most of them.
 
but I wonder if it is worth the time. Note that I don't do this for all my rounds, just some I want to see how accurate I can make them.

How long does it take you to sort them by weight?

How much does it improve accuracy over the unsorted bullets you have?
 
For 45acp @50 yards, my work up requires sorting by weight, 50 cast bullets. After the powder charge is selected, no more weighing cast bullets. 3.8 grs Bullseye, 200gr Lyman BB lswc. New Starline Brass, WLP. 3" @50 yards. Series 70 Colt GC.

Back in the day, used Speer swaged 200 gr lswc for 50 yards. Cast at 25.
 
I do visually sort each bullet I make though. I roll it on the bench checking for rounded bands and holes and such. Minor surface imperfections, scum in the melt, I let pass unless I’m trying for the best groups. Holes, rounded bands, a nick in the base all get rejected.

And of course I weigh a few bullets to get an idea of weight when I start using a new mould. I weigh if I change alloy, and record those weights in my records for that bullet.

The record page for that mould/bullet includes weights using different alloys, techniques required of anything out of the norm, and loads worked up that I like. I also keep a separate page on each bullet for load development both good and bad.
 
How long does it take you to sort them by weight?

How much does it improve accuracy over the unsorted bullets you have?

I didn't measure the time I spent measuring all my cast bullets. All came from the same berm. All the ingots used were tested and had the same bhn. I swirl casted most bullets but at times just let the stream go straight into the sprue plate hole. And so, I had a few bullets that measured 178gr compared to the majority that was 182gr. I culled out bullets that weighed 188gr and more.
 
I bought a box of 9mm lead coated bullets from a supplier that boasted to make very consistant weight bullets, I don't trust anyone ,especially a new vender, so I started weighing the bullets. I found everything from 117 gr to 138 grain bullets in that batch.
I contacted the vender and they sent me a label to send them back. They said they just hired new people and they screwed up my order.

If I cast the bullets I sort them by weight and everything outside of 1 gr goes back in the pot.

If I buy them I weigh about fifty to 100 of them as a quality check. Thats how I found that bad batch.
If the 50 weigh within 1 gr from each other I consider them good.
 
Unless I was going to measure every case and trim them to the same length to obtain consistent neck tension (which I don't) and was going to hand weigh every charge with a lab scale (which I don't) and load on a single stage press for consistent seating depth (which I don't) and shoot off of a bench rest (which I don't), I wouldn't bother to weigh individual bullets (which I don't). ymmv ;)
 
I bought a box of 9mm lead coated bullets from a supplier that boasted to make very consistant weight bullets, I don't trust anyone ,especially a new vender, so I started weighing the bullets. I found everything from 117 gr to 138 grain bullets in that batch.
I contacted the vender and they sent me a label to send them back. They said they just hired new people and they screwed up my order.

If I cast the bullets I sort them by weight and everything outside of 1 gr goes back in the pot.

If I buy them I weigh about fifty to 100 of them as a quality check. Thats how I found that bad batch.
If the 50 weigh within 1 gr from each other I consider them good.

The range scrap I collect is an alloy of some quantity. So far, I don't recall casting a bullet that matches the advertised weight. For example, I was using a Lee 40-170TC mold earlier and most weighted 182gr. I'm wondering how much flexibility in a determined accuracy load when cast bullet weights could change.
 
Question: How much difference in weight is required until accuracy is affected for these handgun calibers at typical handgun shooting distance?
 
Weigh Handgun Bullets for Accuracy?
I have tried it, but if it works let us know
 
I'm just getting back into reloading after too many years of zero range time. Back in the day, I used to weigh 10-20 bullets together, to get an average weight of the lot, then weigh each bullet quickly on my digital scale. I'd divide them up into those right on +/- a tad, those over by a significant amount and those under. And any that were way over/under I would set aside for plinking. I have found some significantly over/under the advertised weight. I load 9's, 38's and 45 ACP/AR.

My digital scale doesn't want to calibrate following it's dormancy, I have a balance scale I can use set to the average, but I wonder if it is worth the time. Note that I don't do this for all my rounds, just some I want to see how accurate I can make them.
Sounds like you've got a process that works for you. Enjoy the journey! :thumbup:
 
After recently doing the math, I'm convinced that a 9mm 148 grain bullet will strike less than 0.001" below the 147 grain bullet.

Relevant equations:

Kinetic energy = 1/2 mv^2. Solve for the difference in mass. (148/147 - 1) is a very small number.

given v, compute time-to-target at 25 yds: v = d/t, or t = d/v.

given t, compute bullet-drop due to gravity. d = 1/2 at^2. a=32 ft/sec^2.

Yeah, I'm an engineer. Physics. Occupational hazard, because it's repeatable.


If you're still with me, for pistols at 25 yards, it doesn't make a difference. Rifles at 100 yards, maybe.

Do the math. Convince yourself.
 
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