Rationale For 10/22 Bolt Pin Replacement?

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Airedale1

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I recently bought my first 10/22 and I’ve seen a few YouTube videos that address and advocate for changing the stock steel bolt pin with a nylon one.

They claim that making the change will:

1- Make operation quieter and that seems to make sense.

2. Will increase the life of the receiver due to eliminating having a steel pin being repeatedly hammered by a steel bolt and as the receiver is aluminum eventually the hole that the pin is in will elongate. Is this true?

3. If 1&2 are true why wouldn’t Ruger use a nylon or polycarbonate pin instead of what I assume would be a more expensive steel pin?

And lastly if swapping out the steel pin is a true upgrade, which one would you recommend?
 
Not sure it is needed. Maybe a tiny gain if shooting suppressed as you don't have metal on metal noise?

Ruger likely didn't do it as they need to be replaced with time/age while steel does not. Sucks it that plastic pin fails on the first round of your plinking trip.

In decades I have not seen a receiver hogged out by that pin. Not saying it doesn't happen but I haven't seen it.
 
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The quite aspect of the polymer pin does work. I can tell the difference when shooting. The wear on the receiver less so. I have a 41+ year old 10/22 with thousands upon thousand of rounds through it (dad would buy me a brick each weekend trip the the family farm and I never came home with much left) and most of that with the OEM pin and my receiver is in fine shape.
 
To add; I look at the replacement buffers as an improvement. It’s not about what hasn’t happened to some people, it’s about what is happening. That bolt is acting like a hammer each and every cycle, to fatigue metal and yes alter dimensions, however imperceptibly (guessing no one has ever measured).

I could argue for a sofa made of concrete as useable and long lasting but would you chose to sit on one when better materials are available for the application. Same with trigger replacement or the several responders who chose an extended magazine release. Someone will always be along to dismiss the usefulness of these enhancements while others will agree they are useful.

Not end of the world stuff though.
 
I don't understand the reasoning for a quieter firing pin when you should be wearing earplugs and the report of the 22lr round will be louder than the firing ping...I just don't get it.

Because hearing protection is not needed with CCI Quiet Semi-Auto ammo (about like a PCP air rifle in noise, actually less). The firing pin is not more quiet, the rearward clack of the bolt hitting the steel stop pin is buffered by using the plastic pins. The rifle just runs smoother. And, some of us have legal suppressors so with subsonic/suppressor ammo (975 fps) or Quiet Semi-Auto (835 fps) the clack of the bolt hitting the steel pin is the loudest noise the rifle makes.

3C
 
I don't understand the reasoning for a quieter firing pin when you should be wearing earplugs and the report of the 22lr round will be louder than the firing ping...I just don't get it.

Noise level aside, the tone of metal on metal is not the same thud in the hunting woods that might pique an animal’s interest as opposed to scaring it off. Same reason lots of us hunt with subs and lighten the 10/22’s bolt to cycle them. It may never make a difference but on the chance it does...well, double squirrel bonus!

Again, no real downside apart from perhaps a 10 year replacement cycle vs never. I’ve spent worse money in my lifetime at gas stations.
 
I don't see the "need" I see a few "U-Tube experts" who like to make video's and tell you all kind of goofy stuff to impress others .
I've been shooting my 10/22 since 1971 ... it even went back to the factory for an overhaul and to Clark Custom Guns for a trigger job ... a stock steel bolt pin is still in it ... if a nylon pin was needed Clark Custom would have told me about it ... they didn't ... and they might know something about 10/22's !
Gary
 
I don't see the "need" I see a few "U-Tube experts" who like to make video's and tell you all kind of goofy stuff to impress others .
I've been shooting my 10/22 since 1971 ... it even went back to the factory for an overhaul and to Clark Custom Guns for a trigger job ... a stock steel bolt pin is still in it ... if a nylon pin was needed Clark Custom would have told me about it ... they didn't ... and they might know something about 10/22's !
Gary

I don’t see the need for a replacement trigger, custom bolt, or extended magazine release but Clark sells those things too. One person accessorizing one way does not mean all other accessories are unnecessary.

My replacement buffer came from Kidd though I could have chosen a Tandemkross or Volquartsen. Those companies also know a thing or two about 10/22s. The thing they all know is that Ruger’s rifle isn’t perfect out of the box and so improved parts have become a means of addressing the shortcomings, including that silly little pin.
 
And, some of us have legal suppressors so with subsonic/suppressor ammo (975 fps) or Quiet Semi-Auto (835 fps) the clack of the bolt hitting the steel pin is the loudest noise the rifle makes.
Interesting and I can understand now. I am surprised that the subsonic ammo can cycle the action, are the springs factory or after market ?
 
Interesting and I can understand now. I am surprised that the subsonic ammo can cycle the action, are the springs factory or after market ?

There are two types, actually three of CCI Quiet. The standard Quiet and Quiet Segmented will not cycle the 1022. But, the Semi-Auto Quiet will cycle a 1022, at least it does mine and it is okay for use without hearing protection. The CCI Subsonic is a little bit louder but it is intended for use with a suppressor though still rather mild without.

3C
 
Interesting and I can understand now. I am surprised that the subsonic ammo can cycle the action, are the springs factory or after market ?

In addition to what @3Crows mentioned, I’ll add that I use factory springs but lighten the bolt to improve reliability (another benefit of using a bolt buffer) as in the example pictures below. This is the start of the process, continue as needed.


This is the rear notch which is stopped by the pin. My thumb rests on the bottom where some material has been removed.
80744A14-AFC8-4DCB-87D6-AF610DF97C7C.jpeg


Alternative view.
2BD76356-43ED-4054-AFF3-F0B8BFBBCB81.jpeg



My only “upgrade” parts in any of my 10/22s are a Kidd Bolt Buffer and trigger return spring. All other modifications are DIY and my trigger pull sits at around 3 1/2 lbs meant for hunting. Shoots around 2 MOA I suppose with inexpensive box ammo, good enough for head shots on squirrels to 30 yards.


012C5484-1E88-4852-832A-DAD96C2A8A8D.jpeg


B4B63883-FA55-4CF5-8FF3-75D660884035.jpeg


B52E0010-9583-4F03-AD10-4A6B8F9BC838.jpeg


E275C412-98AD-40DF-AC3A-F9B6E7806D21.jpeg
 
In addition to what @3Crows mentioned, I’ll add that I use factory springs but lighten the bolt to improve reliability (another benefit of using a bolt buffer) as in the example pictures below. This is the start of the process, continue as needed.


This is the rear notch which is stopped by the pin. My thumb rests on the bottom where some material has been removed.
View attachment 1078235


Alternative view.
View attachment 1078234



My only “upgrade” parts in any of my 10/22s are a Kidd Bolt Buffer and trigger return spring. All other modifications are DIY and my trigger pull sits at around 3 1/2 lbs meant for hunting. Shoots around 2 MOA I suppose with inexpensive box ammo, good enough for head shots on squirrels to 30 yards.


View attachment 1078244


View attachment 1078245


View attachment 1078246


View attachment 1078247
Thanks for the explanation and photos. I normally do all of the stoning for my triggers but did add a BX trigger which for $59 was more than worth it on one of my builds. Have not done the bolt, and like what you did... thank you.
 
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