Red Dot Zeroing/Efficient Optics & Attachments

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Hey everyone, so i wanted to ask a couple questions about my AR-15 5.56 chambered rifle. But before i do, i'll give the specs for context.

So it's a custom built setup, with a pre-built 16" barrel length upper receiver (5.56 obviously), a front post sight base, factory M4 style plastic handguard, a small picatinny rail from the rear of the upper receiver that ends right before the handguard, flip-up backup sights on the rear of the rail, and a Romeo5 red dot on a Monstrum 3.5 in. adjustable riser with quick release arms for aiming comfortability.

My first concern is that i noticed when i try to zero in the red dot, there's a big difference between zero'ing at say 10 or 15 yard vs 25 to 50. And i'm assuming this has to due with the height of the red dot. Is there any way to lessen this difference without sacrificing comfortability? Is it worth worrying about or trying to resolve it?

My next curiosity is trying to optimize the setup by say adding a flip-mount magnifier for acquiring further targets better. Is this worth it to add a magnifier to make it easier to acquire longer range targets?

My last question is just a general catch-all on general improvements or things that would be worth doing to the rifle to make it overall better to use or more effective/efficient. What do you all suggest are the best additions/improvements/adjustments to make to a rifle such as this?
 
What is the reason for the riser? Red dot mounts come in varying heights.

Using a pic rail riser to rase your red dot is going to lead to issues of you try to run a magnifier and those use mounts that are calibrated to sit behind the standard/usual red dot heights
 
Somethings not equaling up....pics or it never happened.
Also, what is custom about it? From the list, it sounds like it's pieced together, which isn't exactly custom.
 
Is this worth it to add a magnifier to make it easier to acquire longer range targets?
It can be.
But, that's more for target identification, for being able to more closely associate a site picture with the intended target.

Now, there are some headaches.

You need enough length on the rail to mount both sights. The magnifier will have a distinct "eyebox" and you may need to fuss with a riser or rest to get a repeatable chin/cheek weld point.

So, it can be a fussy business. But, when it works, it will work.

Be prepared fro some sticker shock, good tip-out mounts will cost as much as the optic at times. (And cheaping out will get cheap results, sadly.)
 
I zero RDS sights at 50 yards. Overall, I prefer optics with a variable range in the 1-6X or 1-8X power range for versatility, which I zero at 100 yards.
 
Bottom line with your red dot is that because it sits high above the bore axis if you zero your red dot at 10 or 15 yds you will find that your rounds hitt as much as 4 inches higher at 25 yds. If you zero at 25 yds your dot will be off by about 1/2 inch at 10 yds. It is always better to zero your red dot at a longer distance. This is the case with pistols and rifles. I’m sure some hardcore rifle guys can give you their recommendations, but if I were you I would zero at 50yds. This will give you a relatively easy adjustment from 25 to 200 yds.
 
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