Which M1A?

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Corpral_Agarn said:
Okay I've been going back and forth on these for a looooong time.
I need to acquire an M1A. I know it's not the absolute best semi 308 on the market but I like them anyway.
Is the Fulton armory variety worth the extra money or should I look to a Springfield and upgrade?
Thoughts and opinions are welcome.
Thank you
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I bought a SA M1A Loaded 9 years ago, it's as accurate as I can shoot, maybe better than I can shoot. It has the National Match barrel, I was getting 1-1/2 MOA from 100-300 yards with open sights, felt I could do better, as my eyes aren't what they used to be (I'm 68, and have worn bifocals since before I bought the rifle). I put a Fulton Brookfield DMR scope mount and a Millet 6-25x56 scope on it and shoot as far as 800 yards with it now, and still 1-1/2 MOA or slightly better. Here's a steel plate I shot about 2 months ago at 600 yards; the gong next to it is 8":
M1A 600 yards.jpg

I can't say a Fulton, or a SA Super Match would be better, at least in my hands.
 
JDeere said:
In today's market Bula would be my choice. Forged receivers in my book. Find a used JRA as another alternative. Bula made their receivers...
Click to expand...
Ruger makes the strongest production revolvers casting them. they have the best facility for it and is good as forged and I wouldnt doubt Ruger casts MIA receivers
 
frogfurr said:
I don't mean to hijack this thread. I have been wanting a M1A for decades and as soon as I got on the Bula Defense website for the first time tonight it was game over. I ordered Bula Defense M21 DMR with a 22" National Match barrel on Gunbroker. Midway has Redding dies on sale so those are on the way. Any suggestions for .308 ammo for loaded ammo until I can get powder, primers, and bullets on the way?

I have a good problems today.
Click to expand...
I have found AA 2520 and Rel 15 with 155-165 gr bullets made very accurate ammo. your rifle might like one powder and one bullet better
 
bangswitch said:
I bought a SA M1A Loaded 9 years ago, it's as accurate as I can shoot, maybe better than I can shoot. It has the National Match barrel, I was getting 1-1/2 MOA from 100-300 yards with open sights, felt I could do better, as my eyes aren't what they used to be (I'm 68, and have worn bifocals since before I bought the rifle). I put a Fulton Brookfield DMR scope mount and a Millet 6-25x56 scope on it and shoot as far as 800 yards with it now, and still 1-1/2 MOA or slightly better. Here's a steel plate I shot about 2 months ago at 600 yards; the gong next to it is 8":
View attachment 1088040

I can't say a Fulton, or a SA Super Match would be better, at least in my hands.
Click to expand...
you shot a group like that at 600 yds and dont think you are that good? when I was 55 I shot a group like that a little bigger with the irons
 
robin banks said:
Ruger makes the strongest production revolvers casting them. they have the best facility for it and is good as forged and I wouldnt doubt Ruger casts MIA receivers
Click to expand...
My SA picked up some peening on the receiver locking surfaces after a couple hundred rounds. It didn't seem to get any worse over time, but the bolt would not fall into battery if you eased it forward slowly- it would hang up just as the lugs reached the mushroomed area on the receiver.
Never seemed to affect function or accuracy, but it was a bit annoying/unnerving.
 
robin banks said:
Ruger makes the strongest production revolvers casting them. they have the best facility for it and is good as forged and I wouldnt doubt Ruger casts MIA receivers
Click to expand...
No doubt in my mind that investment casting with proper finish machining and heat treatment can produce a receiver just as strong as a hammer forged one. It's also much less expensive than hammer forging. There's a lot more to building a quality M14 rifle than just strength of the receiver. I've never personally seen a cast M1A receiver fail; the fit/finish of ancillary parts are often what keeps a new rifle from functioning 100%.

To put things in perspective, choosing the "best" M14 between LRB, Bula, and Springfield Armory is more or less an academic exercise. Any one of those big three players should provide you with a rifle that will last your lifetime and beyond with minimal issues.


@caribou, which brand is your daily carry rifle? You didn't specify in your earlier post. Since you're probably the only active user on this forum who actually uses your M14 pattern rifle every day, the brand of rifle you chose is a considerable data point.
 
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General Geoff said:
To put things in perspective, choosing the "best" M14 between LRB, Bula, and Springfield Armory is more or less an academic exercise. Any one of those big three players should provide you with a rifle that will last your lifetime and beyond with minimal issues.
Click to expand...

That was what I was trying to say in my previous post... you put it together better than I. I did throw the caveat out there that everyone... including the premium builders... have a lemon or two leave the factory. If you dig around over at the M14 forum you will see some posts on that. The Springfield M1a is a production rifle, certainly produced in larger numbers than the smaller builders, but... as I mentioned... they have a lifetime warranty. Certainly, the days of Springfields being built with USGI components is over, of course.
 
Mine is a Springfield, General Geoff, Nat Match all around.

The "major" problem I have s that my rear sight knob will occasionally get move to "11" when I keep it on "2", as thats where my bullets "0' out. It happens when the rifle rubs my belly (carried across my chest) or bunjied to the side the gas tank of my snowgo. Im aware of it, so I always give a glance.
Ive shot 1,000 Wolf steel with no problem for my first go around, ammo wise, but my stash has been PMC Bronze, 150grain FMJ.
The Wolf was all that was available when I received the rifle, and I got to know the gun that way. I was/am pretty happy with the results and it only got better when I found a large lot of PMC.
Ive messed with other makers, and Hornaday Match will shoot fantastic , as will Remington 150's.
169grn Match is my way of making holes in an old oil drum at 800 yards, but thats just me playing with my tools......LOL.

I have had a hell of a time dismounting my bolt, the op rod dosent want to come out of the receiver easily, so I dont do any major disassembly while out and about. its best done at home, in my case.
A Boresnake is a dandy quick wipe for the bore, while the buttstock cleaning kits has its use , too.
For Lube, I use Rem Oil above freezing, and in our 8 months of winter, I use Polaris VES synthetic 2 stroke lubricant mix oil. Since I ride a snowgo or a boat, I have solvent and lube with every ride..... TCW-3 in the lube keeps it from freezing up or getting thick. The Lube is after a scrub, often I use gasoline as a solvent from my gas tank to get the tough stuff, while out and about.
At home its Hoppes and Rem Oil.

in the buttstock trap I carry a spare firing ping, extractor/spring/plunger.
 
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robin banks said:
you shot a group like that at 600 yds and dont think you are that good? when I was 55 I shot a group like that a little bigger with the irons
Click to expand...
Without the scope, I doubt I could see the plate at 600 yards, much less hit it with any size group. It would look like I used a shotgun.
 
Charlie98 said:
No bolt roller?
Click to expand...

No. I didnt think about that at all.
Is this a known weak/wear point on the rifle?

I have a spare parts for every guns mags, firing pin, extractor, spring. For Ruger 10/22's I have extra rear sights.

I use my ratchet chamber brush from the butt kit to keep the chamber shining.

I practice alot
Most shots I take are cold shots, sometimes a follow up , and rapid fire very occasionally.
When I pop plates across the river, its usually just a single shot here and there, through a day stuck in camp or just goofing off..
 
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caribou said:
Mine is a Springfield, General Geoff, Nat Match all around.

The "major" problem I have s that my rear sight knob will occasionally get move to "11" when I keep it on "2", as thats where my bullets "0' out. It happens when the rifle rubs my belly (carried across my chest) or bunjied to the side the gas tank of my snowgo. Im aware of it, so I always give a glance.
Ive shot 1,000 Wolf steel with no problem for my first go around, ammo wise, but my stash has been PMC Bronze, 150grain FMJ.
The Wolf was all that was available when I received the rifle, and I got to know the gun that way. I was/am pretty happy with the results and it only got better when I found a large lot of PMC.
Ive messed with other makers, and Hornaday Match will shoot fantastic , as will Remington 150's.
169grn Match is my way of making holes in an old oil drum at 800 yards, but thats just me playing with my tools......LOL.

I have had a hell of a time dismounting my bolt, the op rod dosent want to come out of the receiver easily, so I dont do any major disassembly while out and about. its best done at home, in my case.
A Boresnake is a dandy quick wipe for the bore, while the buttstock cleaning kits has its use , too.
For Lube, I use Rem Oil above freezing, and in our 8 months of winter, I use Polaris VES synthetic 2 stroke lubricant mix oil. Since I ride a snowgo or a boat, I have solvent and lube with every ride..... TCW-3 in the lube keeps it from freezing up or getting thick. The Lube is after a scrub, often I use gasoline as a solvent from my gas tank to get the tough stuff, while out and about.
At home its Hoppes and Rem Oil.

in the buttstock trap I carry a spare firing ping, extractor/spring/plunger.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the tip, if anyone here would know how to keep things running when the mercury disappears it would be you.


caribou said:
No. I didnt think about that at all.
Is this a known weak/wear point on the rifle?

I have a spare parts for every guns mags, firing pin, extractor, spring. For Ruger 10/22's I have extra rear sights.

I use my ratchet chamber brush from the butt kit to keep the chamber shining.

I practice alot
Most shots I take are cold shots, sometimes a follow up , and rapid fire very occasionally.
When I pop plates across the river, its usually just a single shot here and there, through a day stuck in camp or just goofing off..
Click to expand...

I can't help but point out the humor of a “cold bore” shot for you, your pictures take that saying to a whole new latitude! :rofl:

Stay warm… and safe.
 
caribou said:
Mine is a Springfield, General Geoff, Nat Match all around.

The "major" problem I have s that my rear sight knob will occasionally get move to "11" when I keep it on "2", as thats where my bullets "0' out. It happens when the rifle rubs my belly (carried across my chest) or bunjied to the side the gas tank of my snowgo. Im aware of it, so I always give a glance.
Ive shot 1,000 Wolf steel with no problem for my first go around, ammo wise, but my stash has been PMC Bronze, 150grain FMJ.
The Wolf was all that was available when I received the rifle, and I got to know the gun that way. I was/am pretty happy with the results and it only got better when I found a large lot of PMC.
Ive messed with other makers, and Hornaday Match will shoot fantastic , as will Remington 150's.
169grn Match is my way of making holes in an old oil drum at 800 yards, but thats just me playing with my tools......LOL.

I have had a hell of a time dismounting my bolt, the op rod dosent want to come out of the receiver easily, so I dont do any major disassembly while out and about. its best done at home, in my case.
A Boresnake is a dandy quick wipe for the bore, while the buttstock cleaning kits has its use , too.
For Lube, I use Rem Oil above freezing, and in our 8 months of winter, I use Polaris VES synthetic 2 stroke lubricant mix oil. Since I ride a snowgo or a boat, I have solvent and lube with every ride..... TCW-3 in the lube keeps it from freezing up or getting thick. The Lube is after a scrub, often I use gasoline as a solvent from my gas tank to get the tough stuff, while out and about.
At home its Hoppes and Rem Oil.

in the buttstock trap I carry a spare firing ping, extractor/spring/plunger.
Click to expand...
Wow, kind of a gut punch to all the people condemning rem oil as total trash. Myself included. I suppose maybe I've been soured on it because of its use in an AR in various firing tempo situations. Sounds like you've had good luck with it in your M1A.

I had a Scout Squad M1A. I loved that rifle and never really got to know it's true accuracy potential at extended ranges but I sure loved thwapping steel with it @100-150yards. It was a fun gun to shoot and I liked the overall balance of the Scout Squad better.

I decided to sell it, regretfully.
 
Rem oil or CLP breakfree are good to spray or slather my outer parts for protection against condensation and salt water spray.
I just apply and wipe, and carry on.
We leave our rifles outside or in the storm shed when were in for the night, OR we bring them into the heated steamy house and the cold steel sweats water thats in the air, so then its a full cleaning.
In tents, outside is just as good as inside.
Its best, that on the coldest day we bring a gun in and set them by the stove for a quick heating/drying.
I do that alot, then clean, lube, protect the steel.
Rem Oil has never given me any problems, but , like I said, its almost daily that I give my 2 rifles and my shotgun a go over.
Rust never sleeps.
 
RemOil gets alot of hate because it's so low viscosity I believe. I could see that low viscosity being a good thing when it's so cold though as thicker lubes, will get even thicker. If you're just trying to get a thin layer on real quick, that thin lube will spread easier as well.
 
caribou said:
Rem oil or CLP breakfree are good to spray or slather my outer parts for protection against condensation and salt water spray.
I just apply and wipe, and carry on.
We leave our rifles outside or in the storm shed when were in for the night, OR we bring them into the heated steamy house and the cold steel sweats water thats in the air, so then its a full cleaning.
In tents, outside is just as good as inside.
Its best, that on the coldest day we bring a gun in and set them by the stove for a quick heating/drying.
I do that alot, then clean, lube, protect the steel.
Rem Oil has never given me any problems, but , like I said, its almost daily that I give my 2 rifles and my shotgun a go over.
Rust never sleeps.
Click to expand...
What kind of stock do you prefer?

With such varying temps and such I am curious
 
NIGHTLORD40K said:
My SA picked up some peening on the receiver locking surfaces after a couple hundred rounds. It didn't seem to get any worse over time, but the bolt would not fall into battery if you eased it forward slowly- it would hang up just as the lugs reached the mushroomed area on the receiver.
Never seemed to affect function or accuracy, but it was a bit annoying/unnerving.
Click to expand...
never saw or heard of that. do you use slow burning powders if you reload? something making the bolt slam into the receiver as it unlocks. lugs are to be greased not that it matters now. SA will fix that at no cost
 
1KPerDay said:
GI fiberglass stock will be best overall IMO.
Click to expand...
My only fiberglass stock was on an M14 which the Marine Corps gave me (they did take it back) and it certainly worked out just fine. :) I do have an oversize wood stock someone gave me years ago in exchange for some M1 Garand parts. I also have a nice original GI wood stock including all the metal I found at a gun show in North Carolina. I was going to use that one for glass bedding but like other projects have yet to make it happen. :) Anyway that first M14 in fiberglass worked just fine and was durable. I also have some GI fiberglass handguards if I ever need one and no clue where I got them.

Ron
 
One of the first things I did when I got the rifle was remove that beautifull walnut stock. I love wood, but I know what was in for it, and while the fiberglass gets cold and 'sticks' to skin, its much more durable. The wood, while 'warm' and dosent freeze to skin, weighs a full pound-1/2 more than the fiberglass.
The doubled buttplate really helps as when I bunji the rifle to the side of my snowgo and the butt plate rides rail where my foot sits....and takes quite a pounding.
I paint that fiberglass stock to match the season when needed.
I also carry the rifle across my chest with the sling. That way snow wont build up on it , like my back side, when I ride in powdery snow.
One big bonus that Finn M-39 has is it side mounted sling. I wish I had that on the M1A, as the magazine can dig in the gut. The 20 rounders are really bad, the 10 not so much.
Also, when I crash (and I do crash) i can tuck and roll with the rifle instead of breaking my gun or my back when carried there.
 
SA M1A Scout Driver here. Like the Corporal I too woke up one day and decided ‘I NEED an M1A’.

I don’t remember the exact round count…I mentioned it here a long while back but it was very low..maybe around 70 or so the extractor broke. Sent it back to SA and they fixed it. Been OK ever since. It has a plastic stock on it and I’ve been thinking I’d like to dress it in wood. Also considering a red dot…suggestions welcome.

I keep it and the Garand in separate safes because I swear I’ve heard it badgering the M1A with “Whose your daddy…WHOSE YOUR DADDY?”
 
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