CQB45ACP
Member
+1 and on using better lube.
Why?
Let this Lee video show you how to easily remove stuck case without buying tools or damaging anything
Yes when I used a Lee die that’s the way I would’ve done it too.
How do you deal with a stuck case?
- Thread starter Tinker-S
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Yes when I used a Lee die that’s the way I would’ve done it too.
ballman6711
Member
Yep! Once you spray it walk away and have a cup of coffee or a cigarette. I usually wait about ten minutes and haven't had the first issue with the Hornady spray lube. It really does make sizing smoother and easier.
chris
mmb617
Member
While I haven't been reloading as long as some of you here I have reloaded more than 6k rifle shells in both .223 and .308 without any stuck cases yet. I have always used Lee lube diluted with water. It's cheap and easy. Everybody has their favorite lube but I won't slam someone else's favorite just because it's not what I use.
As above, just because someone thinks their equipment is superior, that doesn't mean someone else can't get good results with another brand. My Lee equipment has served me well. I don't think the OP's problem is with the equipment, it's more likely something in the lubing procedure that's causing the stuck cases.
^^^^^ THIS ^^^^^
OP might want to elaborate on that....
ballman6711
Member
It's possible the case rim doesn't quite fit the shell holder properly, although it is more likely a lube (or not enough lube) problem. I believe I read somewhere that Lee makes some shell holders to fit multiple cases.
chris
rdnktrkr
Member
I started using the lanolin/alcohol mix after I had a couple of 30-06 cases get stuck, when trying to use less lube because of a lube dent on the neck, I've not had any problems since. When using the spray lubes you must allow some time for the alcohol/propellent to dry before resizing. If you are forming cases from something else I found Unique, Imperial or straight lanolin is a bonus on the neck
Bcwitt
Member
Might want to clean inside the die. Dirt can cause that. Clean die & case then a proper lube will nearly always steer you clear. Rcbs type 2 stuck case remover is the easiest (w punches)
wcwhitey
Member
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- 2,814
All of the reloading tips mentioned are valid, lube and shell holder are important. One thing to mention is what the cases were shot in originally can be an issue. Excessive head space resulting in excessive case stretch can make brass weak enough that will split at the base also. Make sure your rifle is safe first and the chamber is in spec. If your head space is excessive you will have the same thing happen inside the rifle chamber as well. Anyone who has played with Lee Enfield .303’s will get this. Too many full length sizings can weaken brass quickly in a generous chamber. Be careful!
Yes, Sir.
I will follow your advice, and if or when I graduate from the T-Ball to the Little League of reloading, I will probably buy the good stuff.
I have found that the stuck cases are just a minor thing to deal with, because just yesterday I went to the range to test and see how my reloaded ammo would do, and at 100 yards, the 3 round groups were a small hole. I had to take the BCG to ensure that there were no bullets stuck in the barrel, because I could only see one small hole on the target. Not to bad of performance using low quality components.
Cheap brass from cheap ammo, TAC powder, military primers, and Barnes Match Burner .223 85GR bullets! Less than 1/2 MOA.
I will reload more ammo to zero the rifle at 200 yards and be done with it.
Thank you for your advice. I will clean it with a degreaser and inspect it for issues.
Since I bought the tubing cutter, I have no use for the RCBS kit I have. The cutter is fast, clean and easy. No drill bits to break, no threads to cut. I did not like the fact that while drilling the pilot hole, the heat generated caused the die to get extremely hot to the touch.
Thank you for your input. I will switch shell holder to see if there is any difference. I have 3 different brands to choose from. I also have two lubes. I will experiment with the Lee brand, since the Lyman brand is the one I use now.
I usually reload from factory ammo I purchase. I do not reload range brass, just because of the unknown, and I try to reload the brass 4-5 times and then to the garbage it goes.
I also use a gauge after FL and chamfer/deburr to ensure that the case will chamber in my rifle. So far, no chambering issues.
As for head spacing issues, I purchase new rifles only, but even then, I have go/no-go gauges to measure tolerances before I use them.
How much of a mess am I going to face after using the STP? I am concerned with the residual effect on primers/powder.
I used to do my own engine and transmission fluid and filter replacement, and I remember how much of a mess I had to clean from my hands and equipment, but I will give a try. I have a few synthetic oil cans in the garage.
I do like to believe that I am the only knuckle head with this issue, and so, I am different!
However, I have found a process that works for me, that is not expensive, clean, and repeatable on multiple calibers. I reload for .223, .243 bolt action,6.5 Grendel, and 6.5 CM AR and bolt action for now. I like to reload for my bolt action rifles, since I do not have to FL every reloading session.
+1 and on using better lube.
Why?
Let this Lee video show you how to easily remove stuck case without buying tools or damaging anything
Sir,
I do appreciate the share of the video. I would love to see what the people in the video did to remove the case from the pin!
Would you have the part of the video I am talking about on my post?
Furthermore, I would not risk damage to my reloading turret press by w
No, I am using Lyman shell holder #26 for .223
Most lubticants marketed for sizing cases will work fine. Some are a bit more finiky than others but once you find the correct method for that lubricant, everything goes well. (Hornady One Shot spray on lubricant seems to be the most problematic for many, including me. Many like it).
Part of leaning about lubricating cases is figuring out how much to put on the cases. A bit too much is better than too little. The down side is lubricant builds up in the die and can cause dents in the case body and shoulder. Cleaning the die remodies the case dent issues, how much excessive lubricant you use dictates how frequently you need to clean the die.
The neck and shoulder adds another difficulty. It generally requires less lubricant than the body. When reloading I usually get lubricant on my thumb and fore finger from handling the cases. I just rub the case neck and shoulder between my thumb and fore finger to lightly oil the case shoulder and remove any excess lubricant.
A little oil is requiered inside the case neck for the expander ball.
The operating between too much and too little lubricant is a learning process. The operating window is fairly generous.
Also the amount of effort needed to operate the press when sizing is a learning process. If the effort needed is too high, you need more lubricant.
BJung
Member
I never have had stuck case. I keep one shell holder per box of dies and use the same shell holder. When I first started reloading. I use to insert a case into the shell holder and spin the case plus test it for fit. If it was loose, I'd look farther. Now, I just insert my shell holder and move the case. If it's loose, I'll stop and inspect why. RCBS has the shell holder # on the box and I'd compare the shellholder # to the printed shellholder size on the box label. I started with pad and lube and now use one shot and imperial die wax. Both are great. I resize 7RM cases with no sticking cases. Just line up your cases in a row on newspaper to avoid overspray and put a light spray on the bodies and at an angle to get the inside of the case neck. Beware of lubing the shoulders. If the necks stick too much, use Imperial die wax with a Q-tip.
ballman6711
Member
I do this as well, seems about every 5th case or so needs a bit inside the neck for the expander ball.
chris
AJC1
Member
You might find this video interesting. There is no right way but any process that fails you is obviously wrong. I use Redding sizing wax because after I wipe it off enough is still on the case to prevent corrosion. Also as I wipe them off it gives good stay time in the die for consistent sizing.
Bcwitt
Member
No, that was the 1#. The #2 pulls the expander out the top & you drive the case out w a fitted punch. No drilling or tapping.
At one time or another, I have picked up fired brass for nearly every gun I reload (except 303 British) rifle and pistol, shot in who knows how many different guns? Using my methods and cheap Lee dies I have stuck zero cases in sizing dies. Am I a "Super Reloading Expert"? Nope. I just follow simple, logical methods. Most of reloading, case prep, is just plain old "Metal Working 101". The same principles that are used for brass or copper tubing, small pipe, metal cutting and forming apply to prepping cases for reloading. I was forming metals (swaging, pressing, etc.) many years before I started reloading. I was tumbling (in a 100 gal wet wobbler) waaay before I thought of tumbling brass. There is nothing mysterious or magic about cleaning, forming, trimming brass for reloading and maybe that's why I have never had some of the problems others seem to be "stuck" with. K.I.S.S.!
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LiveLife
Member
Maybe they chucked the pin into their cordless drill and held the case with a plier while slowly backing out the pin?
I don't know what they used but could ask Stephanie Lee next time I get to correspond with her as I have a pending email sent out regarding their new Pro 6000 mounting template hole discrepency - https://www.thehighroad.org/index.php?threads/lee-6000-press.905987/page-11#post-12429465
deadeye dick
Member
Gary, beat me to the punch. Could'nt have said it better. Getting the feel is most important whether it's seating primers or bullets also
BJung
Member
Don't use WD40 for lube. It will kill your primer. I tried WD40 and I had a hangfire. The rifle went click, I lowered my aim than just ejected my casing and then "boom", it went off!
CQB45ACP
Member
I was being sarcastic & intentionally provocative…sorry but you’re not alone
lots of stuck cases out there even if few admit it.
GeoDudeFlorida
Member
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- Dec 1, 2020
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LOL!! Oh, I admit it. I also admit it only happened when I got lazy and in a hurry resizing .30-30. For some reason that cartridge just annoys me to resize. Can’t figure it out but every once in a while I just get in a hurry with them. Otherwise it’s a dead easy cartridge to work with.I was being sarcastic & intentionally provocative…sorry but you’re not alone
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