Which 10mm?

Which 10mm

  • GLOCK 29

    Votes: 11 7.1%
  • GLOCK 20

    Votes: 39 25.3%
  • GLOCK 40

    Votes: 16 10.4%
  • XDM COMPACT 3.8

    Votes: 11 7.1%
  • XDM 4.5

    Votes: 12 7.8%
  • S&W M&P

    Votes: 21 13.6%
  • OTHER (PLEASE IDENTIFY IN COMMENTS)

    Votes: 44 28.6%

  • Total voters
    154
I have said it before and I will say it again here.
If you are a 1911 guy, get a 1911 in 10mm.
If you are a Sig guy, get a sig in 10mm.
If you are a Glock guy, get a Glock in 10mm.
Same for everything else.


For me, I was a Glock person. This allows me to have a Glock20-21. It shoots 22LR, 9mm, 357Sig, 40S&W, 10mm, and 45ACP-Super. It is also a registered SBR. It goes to the range with me all the time.
 
To me, the 10mm Auto is a field round.

So the only pistol interesting in that chambering is the SAO Sig P220 Legion full-sized, with the 5in. barrel.

They are a darn nice and I almost bought one except for the fact they are heavy and imo the only way to carry one is in a chest rig. I'm happy with the XTen for my field purposes.
 
All depends on your use and budget. If money is no object go get a Dan Wesson, Colt Delta, or any nice 1911 in 10mm. Or a SIG Legion or XTen. There are so many good options now.

If you want a carry piece I think the XDM is a better value than the Glock. I handled the Glock side by side the XDM. Out of the box, I'd have to say the XDM is better for the money.

The XDM isn't as modular but you don't have to upgrade anything on the XDM anyway. The Glock can be a money pit if you decide to upgrade/customize it. I'd rather spend that money on ammo.

I have the XDM Elite Compact and it is easy enough to shoot and reliable. Recoil is stout but controllable if you have experience. The flared magwell sucks but it is easily removed. It also came with 6 mags which is nice, though maybe not needed. Sell some for a nice rebate if you want.

Holster options are a little more limited but they are available. The XDM 45 frame is the same as the 10 if I recall, so holsters should be cross compatible.
 
Ruger SR1911 seems nice. Tanfoglio Stock II looks nice. Rock Island is a contender at a lower price point. If you want to stick around $1k the Ruger seems the way to go. Below $1k it’s hard to find a metal frame 10mm so Rock Island is the budget choice. If money is easy to come by then definitely a Colt Delta Elite or maybe on a rainy day the Stock II. The problem with Tanfoglio are all the chuckleheads telling you it’s a ripoff CZ. Right now I’m only buying metal frame 10mm semi autos.
 
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You are all missing the Grand Power 10mm :)
That is the most interesting in my 10mm collection. It is the lowest recoil, fastest follow up 10mm handgun I have. And I have more than a few.
 
You are all missing the Grand Power 10mm :)
That is the most interesting in my 10mm collection. It is the lowest recoil, fastest follow up 10mm handgun I have. And I have more than a few.
Wanted to like those very much, especially the 5” model, but GP 10mms are scarce as hen’s teeth and spare parts are nonexistent and spare 14-rd mags are extremely hard to source.

I guess the good news is/was, three mags came in the box with the gun.

I talked to a rep for the Texas outfit (Double D Defense) that was selling the GP pistols on GB and they said they doubted any more 10mm GP models would be imported. Very sad, really. It was a new make of 10mm pistol with a lot of promise.
 
To me, the 10mm Auto is a field round.
So the only pistol interesting in that chambering is the SAO Sig P220 Legion full-sized, with the 5in. barrel.

Even if that’s true, why would you choose a low-capacity (8+1) boat anchor for a 10mm “field” (or “woods” or “trail”) gun? :scrutiny: Outdoor (woods/trail/field) pistols in 10mm are a matrix of power, size/weight, and capacity.

I’ve got the P220 Match Elite, the DA/SA two-tone model with the fixed Siglite night sights. Great 10mm blaster, but it would be my last choice to head out into the boonies with. My most-awesome Glock 40 long-slide would be well ahead of it.​
 
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I too am impressed with the XDM-10, both the full 5.25 and the compact 3.8 are outstanding. My Dad's a Gluck guy, but I never cared for them, and I've shot 'em plenty.
If you want a carry piece I think the XDM is a better value than the Glock. I handled the Glock side by side the XDM. Out of the box, I'd have to say the XDM is better for the money.

The XDM isn't as modular but you don't have to upgrade anything on the XDM anyway. The Glock can be a money pit if you decide to upgrade/customize it. I'd rather spend that money on ammo.

I have the XDM Elite Compact and it is easy enough to shoot and reliable. Recoil is stout but controllable if you have experience. The flared magwell sucks but it is easily removed. It also came with 6 mags which is nice, though maybe not needed. Sell some for a nice rebate if you want.



My experience with a 10mm 1911 wasn't a good one:
SR1911-10 barrel lower lug is cracked
If you are a 1911 guy, get a 1911 in 10mm.
Ruger SR1911 seems nice
 
I have a Dan Wesson Razorback 10 MM and more recently a built up 6" fully ramped barrel long slide 1911, all stainless. One of the reasons I wanted the long slide 10 MM is because there has been much said about the 1911 being "Under built" for it, and that the life expectancy of a standard size 10 MM 1911 is about half that of the same gun in .45 ACP. My theory is that the heavier weight of the extra 1" at the front end of the slide would possibly slow things down close to .45 ACP recoil speeds.

If that doesn't make sense then imagine skeletonizing the slide of a standard .45 ACP so it weighs 1/3 less than standard. That imaginary combination seems like it would generate much higher recoil speeds followed by higher impact forces when the slide hits the VIS, and also when hitting the slide stop notch when it returns on the last round, which would (I think) send stronger shock waves through the slide and frame than a standard slide were4 used (Something to think about when rat filing all kinds of gas ports through the slide too).
One of the places they tend to crack is at the slide stop notch, which implies that the slide on the last round goes past the slide stop, and when it returns and engages whatever speeds it has is converted to a shock at the sharp inside corner of the SS notch.

The stronger the recoil spring is "To combat recoil" (So they say), the faster the slide will return either to battery or to stop at that notch, a slower slide speed, all else being the same, the longer the frame and slide should last (Or so it seems to me).

All things must be balanced I think, and it's said that a .45 ACP should last a hundred thousand rounds or more, Old John Moses Browning calculated it all out to last a long time.
Glen
 
The Grand Power magazine issue is easily resolved. You purchase the Witness magazine and add a hole in the front at the same height as the Grand Power magazine.
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Noop. …. Not a fan of drilling holes in non-factory mags just to try to make it work in a gun it wasn’t made for. o_O

It is what they were doing at the factory. I emailed them and asked what mag they were using as I was having trouble getting them and they told me and even sent me the dimensions and size to make the hole. So yeah, the hole wasn't made in the factory but everything else about the mag was factory :)
 
GLOCK 20. I purchased some Buffalo Bore for it and found it fun to shoot, but not difficult to handle.
 
Dan Linscheid here, Glens brother. Sad to report, my brother passed away on July 17th, and I'm just getting around to telling a few of the forums he engaged in about it. He passed away from a massive heart attack, with his wife Dorothy (who was driving their pickup at the time along Highway 101 here in Oregon).

Dan
 
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