My M&P rusted on me.

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I've been carrying my new M&P .45 for the last couple days. I was outside alot in the warm weather and did sweat directly on the weapon. It developed some minor rust spots in the rear slide serrations that were in direct contact with my skin. It was very minor and wiped off with WD-40. In comparison I often carry my Sig P220 in the same manner and it usually rusted much worse, so no complaints yet.
 
The acidic sweat comments really don't hold up. I've never rusted anything else, including my XD or my 1911A1.

I'm guessing you are sweating right on the gun.
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I carry it in a leather holster with an undershirt between. I don't see how I ever got sweat on the front of the slide.

A diet change might be in order to counter the effects of the acid touch. Drinking more water (read: gallon a day) and trying to balance out the body's pH levels would surely help.
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I drink at least a gallon of water a day, sometimes a gallon a shift. I eat well. I'm practically a health nut.
 
Watch it grow! It's better than sea monkeys. Except, you know, $500.

Keep in mind that this gun has been completely dry, it's not even very humid here, and it never actually gets sweat on the slide. I was wearing my 1911 when I got completely dunked under water a week or two ago, and I just shook it off and cleaned it about 8 hours later, no rust. This is really amazing. I haven't really done anything to 'deserve' this rust. Except carry it. Really, I've never had a gun just rust, and keep rusting, without there being some cause like hunting in the rain and not cleaning it or something. Now it's getting to the point where S&W might hear a word or two from me, plus the fact that I won't need it as much soon.

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I'd be talking to S&W about that. I sweat HARD and mine doesn't show anything like that.

One question though, Do you clean the firearm regularly? I mena even if you don't shoot it, if you are carrying it it must be cleaned, I do mine once a week.

The only reason I ask is that's some pretty heavy rust showing up there.

Also is it on both sides or just 1?
 
I carry my blued 1911 in the same model holster from the same manufacturer.
 
Is it acid or salt? In my limited experience, people who eat a lot of salt tend to make firearms and everything else metal rust.
 
Question here:

The slide is stainless, which can very well rust depending on type. You can't park or blue stainless because, well, they're basically types of controled corrosion.

Actual Question: Is the slide actually Melonite treated or just blackened stainless? Can you even treat stainless with Melonite or Tennifer (they're the same thing)?

All other pistols (Glock, Walter, XD) with this type of finish or NOT stainless steel. Matter of fact, XD and Walter actually have a stainless model and a carbon nitrated(sp?) model.
 
MY M&P .40 has been flawless in fit, finish and function. i look forward to an update from you. out of curiosity, what is the third digit of your serial number?
 
I know people have totally different body chemistries. I can't get anything to rust, seriously. I've sweated all over a couple of Kel-Tecs (my first carry gun was a now-sold P11, and I have a P3AT for a BUG now) with their thin bluing, and nary a spot of rust. My P3AT sat in my sweaty pocket, and every time I'd put my hands in my pocket, I'd rub the back of the blued slide - nary a spot of rust, but boy is it polished shiny. I'd not oil it for a month, and it won't rust. I think I must sweat Hoppes or something.

Good luck with your M&P rust problem. I'm willing to bet that S&W will fix it. If it rusts after they replace or refinish the slide, I'd try parkerizing. Parkerizing is a better protectant finish, if you know how to use it.
 
This is pure speculation with no scientific backing on my part, but I wonder if you're handling or eating a lot of tomato products--you mentioned pizza dough earlier so I would assume so. Tomatos are obviously chock-full of acids. Enough to beat through the finish on your S&W, though? Probably not without prolonged exposure.

You should use your warranty. We've all seen working firearms over a hundred years old without rust problems like that.
 
My M&P fell into a river and sat there for over an hour. It then sat soaked in a plastic container for about 2 hours. It looked like a small rust spot in the barrel but it wiped right off. No other rust at all.

I did drench it with Breakfree when I was able to take it apart again.

Just looked at it today and it still looks as good as new!
 
I've got CZ's in Nickel, Polycoat (three guns), and two types of stainless (matte and polished). None has shown any signs of rust or holster wear, and most were bought used. I carry 'em and shoot 'em a bunch, but I also clean them after every range session and wipe them down with CorrosionX.
 
Kurt_D said:
Question here:

The slide is stainless, which can very well rust depending on type. You can't park or blue stainless because, well, they're basically types of controled corrosion.

Actual Question: Is the slide actually Melonite treated or just blackened stainless? Can you even treat stainless with Melonite or Tennifer (they're the same thing)?

All other pistols (Glock, Walter, XD) with this type of finish or NOT stainless steel. Matter of fact, XD and Walter actually have a stainless model and a carbon nitrated(sp?) model.
Click to expand...
The M&P slide is Melonite treated, but there are different types of Melonite treatment. The Melonite treatment with "enhanced corrosion resistance" is not suitable for the stainless slide of the M&P. Check this out: http://www.burlingtoneng.com/melonite.html
 
I'm not too keen on sending it away. I need it to carry. The rust is disappointing but doesn't affect the function of the gun, so I think I'm stuck with living with it.
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If you refuse to send it away for S&W to repair why are you still complaining about it?? You obviously have other guns you can use so why don't you try Smith's warranty so you will have something else to cry about.
 
"The slide is stainless, which can very well rust depending on type. You can't park or blue stainless because, well, they're basically types of controled corrosion."
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Not to stir up hate and discontent, but stainless is able to take a blueing. It just requires a different type of corrosion.

The only reason I know this is the Garand I have has a gas cylinder that is stainless and the gunsmith had to blue it.

As far as the M&P goes, I'd be on the horn to S&W real quick.
 
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