Once again, the Dillon 650 vs 1050

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Zangetsu

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I know this topic has been beaten to death, but none of the threads I found has the information I'm looking for explicitly laid out and explained.

After a fair amount of research, I've narrowed my decision down to either a Dillon 650 or a Dillon 1050, but I still have questions. I'm under the impression that the 1050 is a 650 with all the accessories that has an additional decrimping step in one of the stages that is invaluable when reloading military brass, but that can't be all. I poked around the dillon's website as well as the sites of various dillon dealers and I can't find anything that explicitly lays out what you get with one or the other. Does anyone out there who has both want to elaborate about what exactly comes with each press, how useful that accessory is, and anything else they can think of to lay out the details as clearly as they can?

Additionally, I've heard of a lot of people using the K.I.S.S. bullet feeder which speeds up and streamlines the process even further...anyone use this one and have anything to say about it? Any other bullet feeders to consider?

Thanks for your time!
 
I had not seen that site before....thanks a ton, that was incredibly helpful :D
 
Also remember, I think its around 300 dollars and more for EACH caliber conversion that you have on the 1050.

Something to keep in mind.

For the 650, its more around 100 bux a caliber change.
 
The 1050 does everything on the down stroke and as you noted swages out the crimp on primer pockets. You can have a few 650’s for the price of a 1050.

The quick answer is both are good machines. For rifle loading I use a 650 set up with a trimmer and a 1050 with a KISS bullet feeder. Shown here http://s121.photobucket.com/albums/o213/jmorrismetal/?action=view&current=1050.flv
Even with 8 stations you can’t “do it all” with just one pass and this is the quickest way to make quality rifle ammunition that I know of.

For pistol ammunition I use 650’s. The GSI bullet feeder allows retention of the powder check die and separate bullet seating and crimping dies. 650feeders.jpg I actually prefer the primer feed on the 650 to that of the 1050.
 
The biggest advantage of the 1050 is that all operations are done on the down stroke of the handle....including priming. On the 650 and all the other Dillon presses for that matter, the priming is done in a separate move of pushing forward on the handle after the downstroke. If you forget to do that you get a case without a primer and the small powder leakage around the press as a result. That will never happen on the 1050. That little extra step adds time and effort which translates to loss of a little speed with the 650 press. That is the main reason I sold off my two 650 presses and kept a 1050. It is a LOT more expensive to get toolheads and other parts for the 1050 though so keep that in mind. I got all three of those presses used and would not have kept the 1050 if it didn't already have 2 extra conversion kits and toolheads with it. I'm thinking about getting another conversion kit to so .223 Rem. I still have a 550 press to do the lesser used calibers I load. The 1050 is setup for the high volume stuff.....9mm, 38 special, and 45 acp.
 
A question about reloading .223; I'd mostly be reloading military 5.56, and would prefer to produce ammo that was actually 5.56 as opposed to .223. I know the differences are small, but it's a preference. Anyway...how exactly would this be accomplished? I mean, the 5.56 should have a slightly longer throat, but how would you do that with a .223 die? Would you just back it up a hair more than you would otherwise and use the trusty caliper to make sure you're where you want to be?
 
The longer throat length would allow you to load the bullet out further than in a .223 Remington chamber. To determine the max length you can seat the bullet to....to touch the lands, you would need a comparator tool of some sort. Stoney Point makes one which I think is now sold by Hornady. It will allow you to seat a specific bullet to touch the lands of the barrel and then you would use an overall length gauge (sold by Hornady as well as others) to measure off the oglive of the bullet to determine the oal of that particular bullet seated to touch the lands of your barrel. From that dimension you can subtract as much as you like to get wherever it is you're looking to go as far as pressure and accuracy goes. The OAL gauge measures off the oglive of the bullet and allows a much more stable point of measurement versus measuring from the tip of the bullet as the bullets vary greatly in length most times. You still need to keep the true OAL in mind (dimension from tip of bullet to bottom of case) because if it is too long it may not fit into the magazine of a rifle. If the throat is really long it is possible to load a round to touch the lands and be so long as to not be capable of fitting into the magazine of the weapon. In those cases you are limited to how far out you seat the bullet by the magazine length. If you don't mind single feeding the rounds directly into the chamber, bypassing the magazine, you can load the bullets out further.
 
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