.38 Special brass question

Is there a difference between the brass for a standard load .38 Special and .38 Special +P? I would like to load my .38 Special to +P pressures for shooting in my SP101 .357 3" as heavy target loads. But before I do I wanted to make sure the brass will be able to handle it.

Also, has anyone ever loaded .357 brass down to .38 Special pressures and velocities? How did you go about it?

Thanks RC. I appreciate the info.

Sorry. I'm not letting loose of my .357 brass, It took some searching but I ran across 1200+ pieces for a reasonable price right here in the want ads. And I save every case from the ammo I shoot as well.

I have considered Trail Boss. I've ordered some from my local dealer but it hasn't arrived yet.

How about six manuals...my collection so far.

I'm not wanting to guess. That's why I asked the question, to follow in the footsteps of those who have gone before me and who I trust to have good information.

That's two of you who recommended .2 to .3 above .38 loads. I think I'll start at the .357 minimum load and work down slowly.

I guess I gave the wrong impression. There is NO WAY I would load .357 loads in .38 brass. I value my life and limbs much more than that.

cpaspr said:

NotSoFast -

You've asked two questions.

Loading .38 spl brass to +P pressures for shooting in your .357 SP101. Not a problem, so long as they are shot in your SP101. Shoot them in a weak .38 special gun, and it could be a problem. Make sure you mark the box well as to the contents.

The second, downloading .357 brass to equal .38 spl pressures and velocities. Doable, but if I read your last post correctly, you're saying you'll start with minimum .357 loads in .357 brass and work down towards the max .38 spl loads. That sounds fine, just make sure the minimum .357 loads are still over the .38 spl max loads.
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rcmodel -

I think he is going to load .357 cases to minimum loads, then work down toward .38 spl max loads, not load .38 spl cases to .357 minimums and go down from there.

Click to expand...

I only have one gun that shoots .357/.38 so that is no problem. And I DO mark each box clearly.

I agree about keeping the .357 brass loads above the .38 spl max loads.

No, I'm not changing horses in mid stream. GO back and reread my OP. I want to

1) load .357 brass down to .38 spl speeds and loads for practice instead of loading .38 spl brass.

But, I also have a small quantity of .38 spl brass and wanted to load it UP to +P loads and was asking about brass strength because of that. Again, there is NO WAY I want to load .357 loads in .38 spl brass.

Thanks. While I might work down to that. I think I will load .1 to .3 grains over the .38 Spl max load for now.

Okay, here is my plan for loading...

Here is my load plan for loading .38 spl brass to +P loads.

.38 spl brass loaded from 6.1 grains to 6.8 grains of Power Pistol, topped with a 125 grain JHP or TMJ bullet. I would work up to find the most accurate load I can achieve within these limits.

And here is my plan for loading .357 mag brass down to .38 spl loads.

.357 brass loaded to 6.4 grains (and NO LESS) of Power Pistol, topped with a 125 grain JHP or TMJ bullet. I might even start HIGHER, say 6.8 grains, and work down to 6.4 grains.

These loads come from the Speer #13 Reloading Manual, pages 525 and 520 respectively.

As I have said a couple of times already. I am NOT loading .38 spl brass to .357 magnum loads. I plan on living a LONG time more and doing that would definitely shorten the odds of being able to accomplish that goal.

I hope that helps clear the confusion on the part of one or two who posted. I respect your concern and I am fully aware that what you think I was planning would definitely be a setup for a *Kaboom*. Not good!

Best regards,
Chuck