My new S&W K22 Masterpiece

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ryanrichmond

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I got this just a couple of hours ago from a guy in town. I paid $200. I'm thinking I might re-blue it. I've heard that re-blueing these guns tends to depreciate the value but I'd just assume it not look like this. It locks up real tight and the trigger is like butter!
It's a 3 screw 17-3 model

It's got some blueing issues. I asked him about the marks and he said he bought it from an old woman who's husband passed away and she seemed to think her husband dripped some chemicals (His job involved "chemicals") on the gun and it ate through the blueing. I didn't ask what kind of chemicals but I figured it didn't matter

Anyway it's rough on this one side
RYN_3033.gif

It looks fine on this side
RYN_3035.gif

I also want to know how old this thing is but I can't find any info on how to tell the age of these guns.
This is the serial # minus a couple digits in case anyone here is feeling generous and wants to tell me how old it is. I'm thinking late 60's considering the paper work he gave me on it mentions something about the price of the parts being valid as of 1967
RYN_3040.gif
 
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Sweet! Re-bluing might damage the value as a collectors piece, but for a "shooter" that you just want to enjoy, I would just go ahead and do it.
 
The 1967 range is K715977-K779162, so 1967 it is.

I'd leave it as is, keep it oiled and just make sure you're standing to the right of anyone while you're at the range :)
 
The 1967 range is K715977-K779162, so 1967 it is.

I'd leave it as is, keep it oiled and just make sure you're standing to the right of anyone while you're at the range :)
Thanks for the year.
Will the metal start to rust without the blue on there?
 
hopefully the hole in the bottom of the grip didn't go through any part of the serial number. that is the serial number the atf uses and if it did that is big trouble. I would think that a 4 digit serial number would be a lot earlier than 1967.
 
I think I'd have it done by a nationally recognized specialist. I can't see a quality job hurting it any more than the existing issue. Sure, later a fella might encounter it in a sale scenario and say "... to damn bad about the refinish..." but then what would he have said seeing it in this state. Aside from that the protective nature of the blueing being missing in many places could lead to what you REALLY don't want - pitting!
Also - were it mine, I'd be burnin' up the suppliers looking for a period lanyard loop - but really, that's just me as I'm a freak for lanyard loops. For the hole in the bottom of the grip.
 
hopefully the hole in the bottom of the grip didn't go through any part of the serial number. that is the serial number the atf uses and if it did that is big trouble. I would think that a 4 digit serial number would be a lot earlier than 1967.

hahaha that's not a hole. it's the black mark I put on the photo to hide the whole serial number from appearing online
 
haha I didn't even realize that they came with holes in them. I just slapped the black mark over the numbers. Now that you mention it, it looks just like a hole
 
http://www.thehighroad.org/archive/index.php/t-249332.html


Jim Supica's Standard Catalog of Smith and Wesson will provide you all the information you are looking for.

Your local Barnes and Noble should have copies on hand. HTH

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jad0110January 20, 2007, 09:28 AM
Could someone please fill me in on the evolution of the Smith & Wesson model 17 and model 18 ? What changes were made with each dash number throughout the years, and when did Smith & Wesson introduce MIM parts to the K22 ? I'm looking for a classic heirloom quality blued K22 to compliment my Marlin 39A (1967 vintage), enjoy at the range, and to pass down to my son one day. Thanks for any input.

Tylden,

Kudos on your recognition of what a fine piece the K-22 really is. I haven't owned mine for long, but I will never part with it. Mine is a classic heirloom quality K-22 that will see a lot of use over my lifetime.

MIM parts were not used until the late 90s or early 00s in the stainless Model 617.

This website contains a bit of info that you may be looking for: http://www.handloads.com/misc/Smith.Model.Changes.asp

Also, the best information I've seen on K-22 model changes came from a very knowledgeable K-22 collector who is a member of THR.

The following quotation is NOT my words - they come from Hammerdown in a recent THR post:


Sometimes all the different changes can be confusing that transpired on the K-22's but here are some that make collecting and identifying a little easier.I hope this helps NEtracker, in his hunt for a good K-22 masterpiece as well. The Prewar 5 screw Model only made in 1940 Was the Second series of the K-22 Masterpiece model. This can range upwards of $2500.00 if found since they only made 1,067 revolver's in the second series, and all production was halted for the War effort on December 12, 1940, just Shy of a Year after it was released. This is the Rarest 5 screw K-22 Revolver to find, and can be identified easily by it's Fully round barrel,{Similar to The Older Outdoorsman model} and New Larger Micro-Click rear sights. The Post war K-22s were called the Third series and Now had the Ribbed barrel rather then the Older fully round tapered barrels of the Two previous K-22 series making the Third series weigh slightly more what it's other masterpiece series revolver's did from 1940 & the K-32 & K-38. The Early Post War models had Six Ribs on top of the barrel, along with the grip frame back strap and later it was changed to Ten. This Third series 5 Screw revolver is the Most common, being highly produced over it's Earlier variations and was released December 13, 1946. Along with this New Third post War model changes came the addition of the K-Letter in front of the serial numbers in 1946, which makes a Post war 5 screw easy to distinguish from it's Earlier models by the use of this K-Letter, along with the Ribbed barrel, Micro-Click sights and anti Backlash Target stop that was added as well, after the First series. In December 7.1955 The first Major design change we saw was the dropping of a side plate screw and all later models were called a 4 screw revolver. In 1957 we saw the addition of model numbers appear in the crane are and now instead of stamping numbers in this location it clearly showed what model it was as simply 17. All previous K-22s are commonly called Pre-17s as well before this design change. In 1958 was saw the addition of the 8-3/8" Barrel like member XavierBreath shows a fine example of. In 1959 we saw the first Dash series design change, when S&W changed the extractor rod threads from left hand threads to the now popular Right hand thread. This change occurred as some shooters were complaining that the extractor rods were shooting loose from recoil and binding actions on all S&W models, and now they called the K-22 a 17-1 series. In 1961 we saw the trigger cylinder stop spring screw removed, that was easily seen in front of the trigger guard. This design change was now called the 17-2 series and commonly now called the 3 screw series. In 1967 another design change occurred, that of being the relocation of the rear sight leaf screw, and in 1968 the dropping of the Famous Diamond center found on all previous K-22 grips was dropped, and this design change is called the 17-3 series. In 1977 we saw the next design change where S&W moved the gas ring from the yoke to the cylinder. In 1982 we saw the Pinned barrel dropped, and in 1986 They introduced the 4" heavy barrel like the one shown, as this replaced the model 18 and was the Only Model 17 to ever have a 4" barrel through the whole model 17 series. This design change is called the 17-4. The last design change for the Non underlug Barrel Model 17 Masterpiece series came in 1988. This series was called the 17-5 series and in 1988 a new Yoke retention package and radius stud were added. In 1989 The Model 17 Non Underlug Barrel K-22 was discontinued for the model 17-6 series, and we had seen the last of the Non Underlug barrels. I hope this help's in finding a K-22 that would suite you, as there are many to choose from in the K-22 Masterpiece line. I have yet to add an underlug barrel model 17 as I like the feel and balance of it's earlier models, but hope to find a 4" model someday. Hammerdown
 
That is a terrific gun and a great price. You might want to touch it up with a little "cold bluing". Keep it cleaned and lightly oiled, no rust.
 
ryanrichmond ~ "Will the metal start to rust without the blue on there?"

It hasn't rusted so far!

Blueing isn't really all that much of a rust preventative anyway. I like guns like this, they have character. You could dab some cold blue (Oxpho Blue) on the white spots so they won't look so stark.
 
Love those S&W K 22's

I have a 17-3 that was purchased in nearly pristine condition last summer. I picked up a 17-6 today in nearly the same condition. They are both 6" barrels and the 17-6 is fully underlugged. The first one is my absolute favorite shooter - at least until I picked up this newer one which I've yet to get to the range.

Congratulations on your new K 22! I hope you enjoy it as much as I do mine. On the question of refinishing your gun, I would send it to Ford's in Florida and have them reblue it and then shoot it for the rest of my natural born days - damn the collectors. Enjoy, and Merry Christmas.
 
Thanks for the help guys. I'm 50/50 on having it refinished. While I like the rugged look of the gun the way it is now, I also like my guns to look as good as they can. If it were just a couple minor imperfections, I wouldn't even consider it but because it's so drastic, I just can't decide.
 
If it were mine, I would try some cold blue. Brownells' Oxpho Blue would be a good choice. Really clean (de-grease) the metal, clean it again, heat with a hair dryer then follow the directions on the container. Repeat untill you get as deep a color as you want. You might be surprised at the results.
 
ryan,

Why not contact S&W for a quote on the refinish? If you want to maximize the value of a refinished gun, factory work is the best way to go.

Mike
 
The Bangor era started in 1970 (although quality didn't start sliding immediately) so you got one of the last of the good ones.

Finish is bad enough I would reblue.

If the metal is pitted badly I would bead blast it first.

Great guns.

Congratulations
 
Nice, I think it looks pretty "SICK" as my kid would say (I guess "sick" means "cool" these days ;)). Boss, Beast, Stellar, Epic, you get my point, don't change a thing. Take it out and enjoy!
 
dad said i should spray paint it. haha. I'm going to contact the local smith today and see what he thinks. he's well known around here and does some really great work
 
Howdy

For what it's worth, if it was mine I think I would re-blue it. Yes, there are many purists, myself among them, who prefer old guns to have their original finish, but this gun really is not all that old. It's really a toss up as to whether or not a re-blue will affect the value of a gun that new that has had that kind of damage to the finish.

Yes, gun blue is a rust preventative, that's the whole reason it's there. Gun blue is actually a controlled form of oxidation (rust). The oxidized layer on the surface of the steel forms a protective layer that shields the underlying metal from atmospheric oxygen.

If you get it re-blued, be sure he does not blue the hammer and trigger. S&W never blued their hammers and triggers, they were always case hardened. A blued trigger and/or hammer is a dead giveaway that the gun has been re-blued. And be sure he does not over polish it. Guns that have had sharp edges rounded and lettering polished away are also a dead give away of a re-blue.

I know a lot has been said about the quality of the Bangor-Punta guns, but I bought my Model 17-3 brand new in 1975, I have been inside it many times, and I can tell you the quality of it is flawless.


Model_17-1.jpg



Here is a K-22 made in 1932. It has lots of wear to the finish and a few nicks and scratches too. I would not dream of refinishing it. I don't mind a little bit of honest wear on an old gun. Sorry for the incorrect grips, that's what came on it and I have not found the correct replacements yet.

K2202.jpg
 
I'm having it blued but he said it would be a matte blue since the pitting would be really obvious with a high gloss blue. I just dropped it off. $105 for the whole job. He's leaving the hammer, trigger and cylinder release untouched.
 
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