Help with refinishing walnut stock!!

Might be better in Gunsmithing.

how did you get the factory finish off? I have an 1100 that needs work.

Your prep work isn't over when you're done using a stripper. Some amount of sanding may also be called for as well. Especially when it comes to scratches and such.

Removal of some stains in the wood may also be done by literally washing the wood with some form of detergent. I've had some success with just this thing. You can even use that purple cleaner stuff. Make sure the wood is thoroughly rinsed afterwards to remove any detergents. The wood will be dark until it dries.

When you're done with the prep work, you may be able to mask some minor stains by applying a coat of walnut stain before you actually finish the stock.

Get a piece of walnut and do some experimenting with this if you want.

if the stock is walnut, those may be oil stain marks from damage to the original walnut tree. you might not be able to remove them. strip, light sand, dampen and with a damp cloth over the marks, lightly iron the marks with the wifes iron on cotton setting (send her to the store first). might lighten them. but if not, re-dampen, lightly sand, let dry and put several good (warmed up) tru-oil "hand rubbed coats on. letting each one dry at least 24 hours in a non-humid room. you won't be sorry and it will look like a pro finish job... be sure the wood is CLEAN and dry before starting. down the road, if a scratch appears-and they will) simply re-rub a bit more tru-oil on the spots.

Looks like stain in deep scratches left over from the shaping process.

Leave true oil out of it, if anything a light color walnut stock can be helped with simple pine tar.
It gives a dark even finish to walnut also to maple it brings out the grain & leaves a beautiful finish.
It really surprised me the first time I tried it.

https://www.google.com/search?q=Pin...hp%3Ff%3D182%26t%3D88297%26start%3D15;724;254
Some of the stocks on this is maple.
The stocks on the right are 100 year old walnut stocks with pine tar. The rest are birch it works the same way with Aussie L1A1 coachwood stocks or model 14 birch stocks.
It closes up small cracks & dents on the ends & in some cases it hardens the wood a bit.

http://www.bing.com/images/search?q...729D3C01A1C9D9471151B242E370B4330&FORM=IQFRBA

amc, Personally I don't believe you are done sanding it. I would try using a soft cloth soaked in water and try steaming the black marks out with the iron, and then finish sanding it. I do believe you'll raise the black marks up enough that a bit more of sanding will resolve your problem. I know for a fact that Remington used top of the line walnut back in those days.

Try degreaser and let it soak in for awhile or try easy off oven cleaner use a wire brush on the checkering go with the angle of the checkering not against it . let it soak in at least 30 minutes . then rinse with very hot water follow with rubbing alcohol and let Dry for a few days it should get those stains out but make sure you rinse well if you use easy off or it can break down the grain structure in the wood and then you have more work filling the pores with a filler or tru oil . can we see pics when your done

Another option i have used is to mask off the checkering and color it with a brown sharpie till it blends all the stains in just do not go near the border of the checkering because ink will spread sometimes with open pores in wood
if you screw up rubbing alcohol will lift anot of the inks out there
good luck

Those dark marks look like stains left from being in contact with a rusty iron surface. They MIGHT disappear with a two-part wood bleach. Or not. Whatever gets those stains out, short of sanding, will also bleach out the surrounding walnut color, requiring a complete stain/dye to the entire stock. Were mine, I'd replace the stock.

I found a crusty old stock for my M1 Carbine on Gun Broker. Monte Carlo stock w/cheek piece, fancy grip cap/butt cap. It looked like somebody had left it in a damp basement for years...black mold streaks up from the butt, lifted finish, generally grody looking. Bought it for $35. Stripped it, and used Oxalic Acid wood bleach on the mold streaks and it returned the entire stock to it's original color. I sanded it smooth and refinished it with Min Wax Polyurethane. It turned out gorgeous. Turned out to be an older Fajen stock...

I refinished my model 94 winchester stock, and a 3 year old mossberg500 stock. The winchester was pretty easy, no checkering finsish peeled off in a few coats of stripper. 220 then 400 grit then 4x fine steel wool. I left all the dings in it, its 50 years old and earned them all in the field before i got it. It is walnut,so i added no stain,and went straight to the true oil. I failed so miserably putting it on with my fingers i sanded and buffed.it off. I've applied it with a cheesecloth ever since.let it drya day buff it out wjth the4x fine steel wool till the glare is gone and then another coat. Same patern with the mossberg but a lot more tedious, the finish was much harder to get off, i staines it twice in dark walnut the. The trukil. Both came out phenomonally, very deep satin finish very smooth