Selling my Colt Government 380 stainless for a J-frame: to do or not to do?

It's a matter of selling something you don't really need or want for something you do. Go for it.

I sold a blued Colt Government .380 Auto about 10 years ago in a fit of stupidity...

I have regretted it since about a year after the sale...

You have to do what you can live with, but I would not do it again if I still owned it...

Good luck in your decision...

So, I'm crazy to sell a nice little out-of-production Colt or what? Please, let me know.

Click to expand...

First off, do you need the money from the sale of the Colt to afford the revolver? If so, and you think you will get more use out of the revolver, I would say go ahead.

Personally, I make it a rule not to sell any guns, since I have never done so and not ended up regretting the choice. If you can afford to pay for the J-frame without selling the Colt, I would go for that option. But its really personal choice. If you will use the revolver and won't use the Colt, it makes a certain amount of sense to sell.

I have sold guns in the past and almost always regretted it.

As for your choices, I'm a revolver guy so I see no reason not to buy a revolver. I carry a S&W M442 daily but if you like silver guns better get the M642 instead. I think a Airweight J frame revolver is a great carry gun.
Buona fortuna e scegliere bene.

I sold a blue Government .380 about 3 years ago and am glad it is gone. That gun is the only one I have ever taken a loss on. I gladly took a $50 hit to get rid of it. It was very unreliable. ....Sell if you want something else and need to raise cash to get it.

I hated the trigger on the 317. I would go for any of the others.

I have a Smith 317 and love it.

But...it took me several years to learn the lesson not to sell guns I liked...under any circumstances. It's better to buy the new gun outright. When my brother's friend was thinking about selling his Colt Python to buy a car years ago, my brother jokingly (I think) told him, "If you have a car, you can't really get a gun. But if you have a gun, you can always get a car." The guy sold not only the brand new Python, but his brand new Colt Gold Cup. It was embarrassingly stupid as the car was very forgettable. Of course he's had long, painful bouts of regret since then. The car's now in an old junkyard or it's been squashed, but where the guns are now is a mystery.

I've always regretted selling my guns and I now no longer sell them as a matter of principle, but I have made some decent trades. Even then I've had a few regrets, but I've come out okay. But in your case, get rid of something else, but keep the Colt. A stainless steel J-frame .357 would be nice. A Ruger LCR .357 might also be worth a gander.

5-SHOTS

I would say if it's a J frame you want then you would do very well with either a Model 442 or 642. Since you are restricted to how many guns you can own in the "Defensive Pistol" category, it would seem that it would have to come down to one of your 9mm. pistols (both very nice guns), or the Colt Government .380. Tough one to call because I would hate to have to give up my Colt Mustang for my S&W Model 649 or Model 638. Let us know what you decide to do.

I have sold lots of guns

as my wants and needs change. I regret selling only a few and one was my blued Colt Mustang. If you really must have a snubbie I would take a look at the 640 Pro.

Colt .380acp value; new 442-642 no lock J frame....

I don't own any .380acp guns at this time, but if I were looking to get a new J frame Smith & Wesson snub, Id sell or trade it.
I like the S&W model 642/442 no lock version. I saw a 642 .38spl no lock model on sale for only $365.00 at the beginning of the summer. That would have been a good back up or deep carry handgun, .
I didn't buy it because I saw later that S&W rolled out the new "no thumb safety" version of the Shield models(9x19mm, .40S&W). I would get the 9mm Shield first then buy a new no-lock J frame.

I vote sell the Colt get a 442 no lock.

My 3" 317 is a disappointment, especially considering the price.

Smith has had to replace the cylinder - it locked up so tight I had to use a hammer on it to unload it - which they did under warranty but still a big bother.

Accuracy is mediocre even for a light snub, and considering the price fit and finish are below average.

Could be I just got a not-too-good example.

Every gun collector needs specific guns in the collection.
IE: quality 1911, nice bolt action in a deer caliber (243, 6mm, 308, etc), classic shotgun like a model 12, 101, or 870, at least one good J-Frame, a Glock or two, and any family hierloom for a good start: But no .380 is nowhere to be found on my list. These are just the "working" guns for use; not the " hands off-don't touch" guns like my Nazi P-35.

Novelty guns? Sure. Mine are Bond and Davis derringers.

To shorten the suggestion, trade for a good J-Frame.

The 317 family of .22 J frames has always had a poorer reputation that the steel Model 63/34. Heavy springs / trigger, erratic ignition, easily damaged clear coat finish are among the various complaints I've read over the years.
So if the .22 snub is your first choice, then the Model 63 would be the one I would recommend.
Of the .38 J frames, which ever is cheapest will do. I don't see any benefit to a .38 J frame with moon clips, so if the pro series goes for a premium I would not pay that.
Not on your list, but if your gun shop can source a 640 then the extra weight will certainly help tame recoil in what will be mainly a range toy.

If you don't shoot the colt very often then there is no point in hanging on to it. Experiencing a new gun is always a joy, letting go of a little used toy to have that new experience is a worth while trade off in my mind.

Here is my view. It does not matter how many guns you own, only how many you have owned. You can only shoot one at a time.

If your limited to the number you can own and you want a snub nose I'd say go for it. The little Colts are nice, I have owned one. But they are really heavy for their caliber. You can get a .38 that will weigh under a pound loaded and that is easy carry.

I used to own .357 Models 60 & a 640 in stainless, before short barreled guns were banned here in OZ. I've also shot a Model 63.
My take is the Model 60 was the most fun to shoot, especially with boot grips. The 640 was easier to shoot (higher grip) and the DAO trigger is much smoother. Thew Model 63 had a heavier trigger than the Model 60 or 640, so it would require some work to master.

Unless you reload I would go with the 63. If you reload then that opens up the option of cheaper hand loads at lower velocities for range use, but I would still stick with an all steel gun.

Now if this was my wish list, I would see if the distributor has one of the 640 Pro series with fluted barrel, melded barrel lug and Trijicon night sights. That's a gun I would like to experience.

There is no price given for the Model 63 on that page.
I see the difference between the aluminum and stainless guns is quite high, so if you need to stick to your trade in value, then yeah, a Model 60 or 640 is out. Just expect the Airweight guns to buck when you shoot them. Not that this is a bad thing. I loved shooting magnums out of my Model 60, but the accuracy was way down on what I could manage with .38s.

Wife has the Colt Govt. .380. She bought it the year before they quit making it. Would trade me before she would that Colt! (don't blame her)

Rich In Ky

If you are carrying this out in public, then one of the aluminum framed revolvers are nice, especially if it is hammerless like the 642. If you are just buying to shoot at the range, I would consider the steel framed revolver, like the Model 63 22 LR or a 60 38 Special.