So what IS the consensus on using loc-tite on scope ring screws?

I'm no expert but I use blue loctite on the rings and base. Definate no on red loctite.

Bases get threadlocked, not rings.

Blue loctite is the one you use. The intended use is to either let it dry on threads and then use or just put a drop on the heads of screws after assembly. I prefer a drop of light oil on the threads, so I do the latter. I adopted the method by combining recommendations from Leupold and Loctite. I have not had anything come loose unless I wanted it to since going that way years ago.

Blue on base screws and under bases.

Nothing on ring screws, or clamp screws.

They just never come loose if properly torqued when installed.

rc

I think the Leupold std base/ring combo says no threadlock recommended. Kind of makes me think they use some kind of knurled screws.

I always use it on bases, never on rings. This is what Warne recommends.

I'm another that only (blue) Loctites the bases. I haven't had to on rings, yet. Maybe because I intend for rings to be removed and almost never intend to remove bases.

For sure, I've never loctited the circular clamps of the rings. Good rings clamp well around a tube. Much like good motorcycle controls clamp well around a handlebar. At least in my experience.

I use Green Lock-Tite on my gun screws. Was recommended by a Gunsmith. It is easier to remove than Blue when needed.

I have used it on my SAA pistols and Scout Scope - all screws.

Purple loctite for tiny threads

Not sure how the poster on letting blue loctite harden on the threads, got it to harden, as it's a lack of oxygen that does it

Blue on the bases, the one time I didn't it just about cost me an elk.

Ring screws

Leupold has an excellent video on their website for mounting scopes.
Of course some might say: "So what does Leupold know anyway about mounting scopes". A valid point as they are only manufactures of scopes, rings, and bases. How could they possibly know how to mount one ?

The Leupold man says Leupold does not recommend loctite on the base screws, but if you are going to use it, as some like to, use the blue. He doesn't mention
the ring screws, but we noticed he didn't use any.


Dug up some instructions for some Burris rings (they were for STD and tip off
rings) that were about 10-15 years old. They say no "cement" on the ring screws. It seems we've read this in other places as well, but can't recall where at the moment, which is just heresay so we don't offer that up.
(One could construe, if done carefully, that "no cement on the ring screws" could mean that anything else on the screws would be o.k., or that cement in the screw holes would be o.k.. We were "shocked" actually that Burris was surprising "vague" on those two important points. Tremendously confusing to us on this end and
probably contributes to differences of opinion on this age old question. And rightly so.

Of course these instructions can be interpreted in many ways by the reader or
viewer as the case may be, depending on his or her (or other) interpretation
of the words "no", "don't" or "do", "yes", "no" etc....

In passing we would mention that we removed, a few years back, one of the old Griffin and Howe side mounts that were secured with 3 screws and 2 alignment pins from one of our favorite rifles. We know the mounts were installed for at least 50 years. There was no loctite on the threads nor were they particularly tight or difficult to remove (snug, yes). They had ridden on a horse a good portion of the time that we used it and were probably subjected to about as rough a treatment as a mount can get without calling it abuse (abuse as in the old definition at least). It was never known to shift point of aim.

Personally we have no opinion on the matter one way or the other. Which would seem to be the most political correct position considering the circumstances, or lack thereof. We try to remain "fair and balanced", you decide. OYE

I use a teensy dab of blue.

I use Leupold steel rings and bases without Locktite and I have never had a problem.

Not needed, or at least I've never seen a properly installed set come lose. If they come loose without it, IME, you're doing something wrong. But if you feel better with something like the Blue (non-permanent) Loctite, you can. That's been my experience, and also that of many experienced responders posting in the perhaps-25-threads-or-more on various forums I've seen over the years.

Leuopold and Burris both recommend against threadlocking compounds in favor of oiling the threads to get proper torque. It is interesting that, despite the recommendation, many Leupold products come with what appears to be a threadlocking compound, as Taliv mentioned.

I have used blue in the past. I have more recently been following manufacturer instructions and haven't seen anything come loose.

ETA: Burris's instructions: http://www.burrisoptics.com/pdf/Rings_bases_install.pdf
I think Leupold's instructions are only on the products. I might can take a picture...

No thread locker on ring screws. Rings stay tight from prevailing torque of the screws. To do so, the ring joints should not be metal to metal. If they are, the rings are oversize for the scope. While reaming and lapping scope rings eliminates stress on the scope, overdoing it can lead to insufficient clamping force by the rings.

Mounts yes, rings no.

ive never used anything. Properly torqued initially and ive never had one come loose. I tend to change my mind about optics on guns all the time and want to be able to easily swap them around.

taliv said:

i dunno. most of the screws i get with rings come with that dry blue or red stuff already on the screws. (maybe called nylok?)

i couldn't say why some screws come loose and others don't, but when i haven't loctited them, they've always come loose, and i do have and use torque wrenches set to the appropriate setting. seen a lot of guys at classes and matches with scopes wandering around because screws came loose.

my larue rings/mounts/bases always shipped with loctite
spuhr mounts come waxed with instructions to degrease and apply loctite if you are working in extreme conditions
pretty sure my vortex rings (made by seekins) came with loctite as well

Click to expand...

I'm currently running Spuhr mounts on the two rifles in my collection that I care about the most. I didn't use loctite, or the resin they mention in the instructions, and mine has never moved. I'm sure a little extra precaution couldn't hurt, if someone was inclined to use loctite, but in a solid and quality mount I'm not so sure it's necessary.

Personally, I'm a big believer in proper torque settings. Every time I've had an optic come loose on me (which is a really frustrating problem until you realize that this is your problem) it has been on an optic that I failed to properly torque with a torque wrench.

Another thing I typically do is place an index mark on both the scope mount, and the corresponding area of the scope body, in a couple of different places. If things start to move it quickly becomes apparent if those index marks aren't lined up (I just use a pencil for this purpose).

Outlaw Man said:

Leuopold and Burris both recommend against threadlocking compounds in favor of oiling the threads to get proper torque.

Click to expand...

That could be it, too. "Dry" and "wet" screws are going to move to different levels of tightness under the same amount of applied torque. As such, if the manufacturer intended you to use XYZ lb/ft when the screws were oiled, and someone were to tighten them when they were dry, it's possible that the torque would be insufficient to prevent those screws from loosening under ordinary use.

/l\ What he said.

I've always used blue Loctite and have never had a problem with quality rings or mounts coming loose . . . OR with removing them once I wanted to. And I've mounted 'scopes on both rifles up to .375 H&H and magnum handguns.

Walkalong said:

. . . Heat will release Loctite, but you don't want to do that to nice rings, bases, and actions. If you have to use heat, use as little as possible . . .

Click to expand...

If you HAVE to break screws loose from red Loctite, a soldering gun is not a bad way to concentrate heat on the screw; I really would rather not use a propane torch on a ring screw that's still holding a 'scope. I think I read somewhere that 300F is what it takes to break the bond.